bullylover

There is a few different spacers that go behind the clutch and the primary drive. Different widths/ heights. I know a 158 primary drive will not fit a 151 engine without changing both spacers as it sat at a different height and the primary chain didn`t line up.

Hi Mark. Give Feet Up Fun a hoy. If anyone in Australia would know David probably would or maybe Paul from the Hell Team.

Hi Greg. All of the Sherpa T models had 6 volt bulbs in them. Graham.

Google would be your friend here I think. England is the best bet for all of this.

Every batch of paint that Bultaco bought was a slightly different colour. I can remember in the very early eighties at a Trial over here there were 6 or 7 M199As all lined up in a row and all of the blues were slightly different.

The Bultaco Red in PPG paints is Torch Red. Code DAR 74013. Thanks to Bultaco Classic for this information. I think In Motion also has spray cans of this red. The yellow is on the sidecovers because that is the universal colour that an open class motorcrosser has to have on all of its numberplates.

You may find it will power 12 volt LEDs with no hassles. I know on the points ignition ones often you had to run a 12 volt bulb in the brake and tail light to stop them blowing bulbs. If you have to change the ignition then just buy a 12 volt system.

Try Steve Goode. He has a page on Facebook. He has most Italjet parts. I do know where there is one but the bloke who owns it does not want to sell it.

If I was you I would change the primary side crank seal and probably the ignition side as well. Especially if this engine has been sitting around for a while. The crank seals do go hard. They are pretty easy to change. You don`t have to split the engine in halves just pull the clutch and the primary drive off and put the seal carrier off. If you do this be sure to put a new O-ring in behind the spacer behind the primary drive Looking at your videos I would still give it a rebore and a new piston kit. Graham.

You may want to try putting the damper rod bolt back in but nowhere near tight and giving the centre of the allen head bolt a whack with a pin punch to try and get the damper rod to start moving. A bit of heat as Feetupfun has said.

You will also find the kickstart lever is much easier to get off and on if you remove the bolt completely before you try to put it on or take it off.

The Weavers would be the shop to ask about specs for the Astros. We are waiting on a pile of parts from them for a 250 M195 Astro to get that bike up and running again. Mainly an original front hub and spokes. I hope it all goes well fr you. Graham.

I think they are a 60mm stroke but I don`t know for certain. I can`t find any specifications online. I know the MK11 250 Pursangs changed to a 64mm stroke but they were a couple of years after the M163. I`m pretty sure the MK 10 and the MK 9 250 Pursangs were a 60mm stroke.

Another option for fork seals is to use KTM SX 65 2002 to 2009 fork seals. These are double lipped so you only need one a side and the last for a long time. The Ariete Seals are the ones to go for.

The idea behind the ignition breather is when you have a hot engine and you enter water the case can suck in some air instead of water as it cools down very fast. So keep the breather if you can.

You might also try Bultaco Australia or Classic Bultaco in the USA. There would also be a few suppliers in Spain.

There is a Dellorto carby dealer in England who mails worldwide. I have bought parts off them before from Australia. I changed operating systems on my computer a while ago so I have lost all the email addresses I had saved so just use Google.

You can also use heat shrink tape. I used that for a while on one of my Sherpas. I`m not sure how long it will last for but it does work.

There is a ball bearing in between the pushrod and the mushroom shaft on the clutch end. It is around the same size as the pushrod. Any pushbike shop should have one but you may have to buy a few to make it worth their while. Graham.

Seeing as you are already in Europe have a look at Frankie Mountain Spares. He is expensive but I think I can remember seeing all the later Bultaco brake light stuff on his website. Graham.

Have a look on the Italjet page for a jetting guide on there. I think they would be much the same as a Sherpa T. They had Dellortos on them from new.

As far as I know the only different threads on a Sherpa T are on the early ones the nuts which hold the carby on are 8 x 1.0 thread and on the later one the 8mm screw which holds the top of the kickstart on is a 8 x 1.0 thread.

Do you have a fibre washer on the bottom of that bolt? Put one in there and it may tighten everything up.

The top ring is also the widest one as well. Bottom one is narrower.

There are also Barnett clutch plates made in the USA. I have these in my 3 Sherpas. Just google Barnett clutch plates.