guys

How to ruin a perfectly good bike

I don't think there was any trial on breakfast so far...

It sounds to me that you're already to much forward on your bike when you land... I had this once dropping of a rock, went over the handlebars and landed on my shoulder I now shift my weight more backwards, maybe you should try that too...

Thanks!

Here's a fake http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/garage/vehicle/792-montesa-cota-4rt/page__tab__images

Fatbars mount: http://www.vmar.com/tripleclamp.html Don't know about larger clutch master cylinder...

Uw spelling is bijna goed

Welkom

I think you wanted to show this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tycEuiCxRsA And here's another one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llneyj9oCh8

I also weigh over 14 stone (91kg) and I ride with the standard spring, only with the special linkage plates. Had no problems so far... Maybe I should consider the heavier spring....

Dag Eugenevd, ik kan uw eerste zin ook lezen zonder problemen. En ik ben een vlaming en spreek vlaams ;-) Hi Eugenevd, I can read your first sentence without nay problems. And I am fleming and speak flemish ;-)

No worry's

Which aftermarket pads do you use on your 04?

Goeiendag van uit Belgie! Eindelijk nederlands op deze site! (Hello from Belgium! Finally some dutch on this website!)

And I'm very happy about that!

No, at least in Belgium it's not availeble at the pump. It's mostly sold in garden centers for use in lawnmowers etc. I use the Aspen 4 (euro 95 RON octane) fuel in my 4-stroke. But it's also available in a ready-to-use 2-stroke mix http://www.gustharts.com/lubricants-%26-fuel/aspen-fuel/ Aspen has racing fuels also: Aspen+ ( 98 RON octane) and Aspen R ( 102 RON octane) They even sell Aspen E which is a bio ethanol based racing fuel

Funny!

You just heat the part where the bolt is screwd in with loctite to about 150°C and you will be able to loosen the bolt with no problem... (By the way, almost every manufacturer uses a locking agent like Loctite on safty parts as the bolts on brakediscs...)

Did you degrease everething properly before applying loctite? I would try loctite 270 (high strength) before I start drilling holes in the shaft (and making it more fragile).

http://www.youtube.c...ilbody89/videos

Maybe these pictures shed some light to your problem. And if you look at the picture below, you will see that at least the outside of the silencer looks standard (could be a titanium copy or something like that of course):

And may I ad another thing in the mix (haaa... ha... ha..... ha) Does anyone use alkylate fuels as I do in my four-stroke? Should run a lot cleaner (and better for humans and the environment), also in two-stroke engines... http://www.acs.total.com/en/fuels/industry-fuels/alkylate-fuel.html

@ copemech: The cuts in my tire came from sharp rocks or something like it and the punctures were very small. Safety Seal http://www.safetyseal.com/index2.htm looks very promising. With other patches there's the problem that, besides the fact that the sidewalls of a trials bike flex a lot, you have to sand down or roughen the area around the puncture. If you do this on the inside of a Michelin X-Light tubeless tire, you will sand away the very thin layer of rubber that makes it air-tight. Also: The problem with other liquid tire sealant products is the fact that they leave a very sticky goo on the inside of your rim which is a bitch to clean of. That's why most tyre specialists don't like the stuff. Stan's Notubes tire sealant stays liquid and doesn't stick to your rim (you can get it off with water). And when it hardens after time, it forms something like little round balls, and doesn't stick to the rim. (No, I'm not sponsered by any of the brands! )