arnoux

If you search by Part numbers you will find a supplier. Try BIT050620007 this is for a 2006 model or BIT05052007 this is for a 2005 model (just the seventh digit changes to reflect the year it was current for, so try 4, 7 etc etc - whatever year you specifically need to make the stickers match. Also some early years were blue plastics, then they went to red) They are the same plastics just different stickers and will fit all BOY50 from 2002 onwards.

Yes we have been trying to source these for some time. Off Road Action (Jitsie) used to stock them but haven't had anything for well over 18 months now. Probably can't see that supply returning.

Use the same process. Put the crank in the freezer for a bit, and warm the case half in the oven. Then some grease on the inner face of the bearing and O ring, and it will slip straight in. No need to use tape or anything else.

Kirk there is a plug on the headlight wires, just undo that and you are good to go. You wont need it, but you can download the owner's manual, and the electrical schematic is on page 41.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I_EfGh-kGxYqyZ3VrHGzuvGOfLs8IqgP/view?usp=sharing

The Gas Gas part number is M01217001, use that to search and you will find them. TIP: Download the parts manual for your bike and use the part numbers to search by, not a description, you will have much better results.

Agree with Nigel, usually a May build for the premium model. Hence Shirty not knowing any details yet. So down here in Australia we would traditionally see the GP (or thr RAGA, or Factory Replica) in July for sale. That has been the case for the last 10 - 12 years but KTM may change that scheduling, who knows. ..........They haven't changed much else :-)

Gas Gas now make a blank rear guard and a generic sticker kit that covers 2002 - 2010 bikes. As some of the individual year stickers are getting obsolete they designed a set that covers this complete period. They are good sets. This is the part number for the complete kit: BT95000CT-BGI-1 Rear guard sticker only: BT95003CT-BGI-1 And the blank rear guard: BT280220007 Search these part numbers and you will find what you need. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote from website: Gas Gas no longer sell individual sticker, or sticker sets specifically for older bikes pre 2010, but they have designed a generic sticker "set" that work on this range of bikes roughly designed around the mid 2000's graphics. You can purchase the following "RED" sets: BT95002CT-BGI-1: PERIPHERAL RED STICKERS KIT TXT PRO 2002-2010 Contains the following - Forks, Front Mudguard, Headlight, Frame Logo, Frame boot protectors, swingarm (2) BT95001CT-BGI-1: CENTRAL RED STICKERS KIT TXT PRO 2002-2010 Contains the following - Tank, Frame infills, Airbox top, seat, side "boomerangs". BT95003CT-BGI-1: REAR FENDER RED STICKER TXT PRO 2002-2010 Contains the following - Rear Fender BT95000CT-BGI-1: STICKER KIT RED TXT PRO 2002-2010 Full sticker set, contains the 3 above kits combined into one full set. The Full sticker set is also available in a more predominantly "White" set that suits the 2010 bikes BT95000CT-BKX-1 STICKER KIT WHITE TXT PRO 2002-2010

Did you index the quadrant gear into the correct position when you put it on the shaft? Here is a reference. Kickstart assembly installation instructions.pdf

BT761053013

Shafts are not "poor quality" they run at crankshaft speed so both should be replaced at the same time as the seal. RULE: if you replace seal do the shaft at the same time. And do not fill radiator right up to the top. There is no "expansion tanks" in this cooling system so leave 8-10mm air gap in the top header tank to allow for that "expansion" as it warms up and it will be fine. Top it all the way up and that few mls will just either blow out the pressure relief valve, or past that worn shaft in your case (which is easier - but it will go out of one or the other)!

I believe the Gas Gas Part number for the cable is: EM10225TT-CLR-1

There is an OBD connection port with a JST plug from 2018 bikes onwards. Black plug, right hand side, near frame rail middle of tank area. Should have a blanking plug in it. You need the Leonelli cable that goes from the JST plug on the bike to the OBD cable on the reader to make it work though.

Hi Sting32 I think this is the image you may have been referencing. It is a little inaccurate because it doesn't show the shift discs engaged in the correct positions, it just shows the drive sequence. You are correct - gears are always in constant mesh, it is the shift discs that are moving and creating the drive sequence. But from memory the 4 to 5th change all 3 disc are moving and need to relocate into the appropriate gears, hence the 'tougher' shift in the Gasser boxes in some gears and not others. Some changes only one or two discs are moving. It is a great gearbox design, just needs to be understood that you can't be hamfisted with it. Saying that a clunky change is understandable knowing the mechanics of it, but it shouldn't be 'grinding' - that sounds like big bits of metal are being turned into small bits of metal!

Nuh sorry mate Australia. But just to give you a heads up you can get Gasser steels in 1.3mm, 1.4mm, 1.5mm, 1.6mm, 1.75mm and 2mm. You should be able to find a UK supplier if necessary.

I've got 1.75mm ones in stock if that helps.

300cc 2015

I'd agree with Dabster, the stators (and the rest of the ignition system) are super reliable on these Gasser. I would be surprised if that was it.

Only difference is graphics they are all Airoh TRR

VIN says built December 2013, so it is a 2014 model. Engine numbers do not match frame numbers with GasGas Bikes.

Yes as Lineaway said, check you are using MT280344001 which is the case gasket from 2003 onwards (hence the 3 in the part number) Not MT280244001 which was the 2002 gasket. (almost the same, but not quite). MT280344001 fits 2003 to 2020

The easiest way is to us the centre bolt as the lever. Undo the centre bolt that holds the kicker onto the kick start shaft a couple of turns (and you will need to juggle the amount of turns out to get the correct amount of leverage), now fold the lever out towards the position you would kick start the bike. The knuckle part of the lever should now come in contact with the centre bolt head, as you keep folding the lever out, it will draw the kickstart knuckle along the shaft and off. Sometime it will need a small tap on the inside of the kick arm to help it break free. Done hundreds of bikes lie this in the workshop - works every time. Just juggle the amount of "out" on that bolt head to get the sweet spot.

2012 Gas Gas TXT 250cc, built in September 2011

Also as Huski mentioned there is two very slightly different piston sizes. The kits look identical but there is a difference. AJP Master cylinder used on Gas Gas bikes up to 2012 used a 9.48mm piston, Gas Gas Part number BT280222220 Then with the introduction of the new AJP unit construction master cylinder the piston size slimmed to 9.38mm Gas Gas Part number BT280222220/2 And then again when Braktec took over the AJP construction it reverted to the earlier 9.48mm piston size. Very confusing! You can usually tell the smaller 9.38mm pistons as they are a raw aluminium finish. The bigger 9.48mm ones are coated and are usually a bronzy to brown finish.

It could be the reservoir port hole is blocked. Do you have some freeplay on the actuating rod? If the piston isn't being allowed to return all the way, then the reservoir port hole is either fully or partially blocked, and you won't be able to bleed it in a month of Sunday! You must have some air gap between the piston and the actuating rod. Same deal on front master cylinders. It is by far the most common problem we see in the workshop with trials bikes. So many people think the actuating pin somehow affect clutch or brake take up point, but it is not for that. It should be set so there is 1mm or so freeplay when in it's relaxed position. Please check that first before moving on. The actuating pin on the rear brake lever can be adjusted for length by undoing the jam nut (10mm open ended wrench) and screwing the rod into the brake lever. until some freeplay is achieved. This allows the piston to go all the way back in the piston port, and opens the bleed port from the reservoir into the system.