betarick

right just removed flywheel & stator. was shocked with how much mud & crud was in there! i woundnt mind but i have allways removed cover after washing bike & left it to dry out! i have tested stator at wires and im seeing about 32m ohms between red & black wires ignition wires! brown wire goes straight to earth 0.01 ohms not tested yellow wire as this is for fan lights horn etc. fan was working before bike died with no spark! what do you think to my readings?

typical today i jinxed myself! before trial talking to fellow rider i said i have never had any bother with my stator! and with one section to go bike just died and now i have no spark! bike is a 06 250 rev3 witch i have owned from new. tryed all the usuall stuff like new plug + borrowed coil from my brothers bike + removed kill switch and checked all wiring connections. can i test stator as i have decent multimetre what readings should i get on each wire? last section was a easy one that i had cleaned twice allready typical! i had to take a 5 to finish trial!

yep tryed that one moved kickstart forward! engine is a good starter as its been totaly rebuilt! restoration job,

I have just purchased some foot pegs from jk hirst the sammy miller type after market ones! my question is when i fit them and tried starting bike the kickstart dont go round far enough to kick engine over? i know that with orginal ones you had to fold peg up out of the way, but with these there spring loaded and have no way of holding them up. Also i have noticed that there is a small rod that the brake pedal touches and dont return to its orginal rest position this on the back of pedal bracket! anyone else come across this problem?

remove clutch plates clean steel plates by taking shine and marks off them with emery paper and leave clutch friction plates in oil overnight then bang it all back together with fresh oil & it should be right!

clean both surfaces and a light coat of grease on both faces of gasket! you will find you need grease to fit new clutch cover oil seals and water pump seal! there is nothing worse than loads of sealer hanging out evey joint! looks like its been bodged and thrown together!

ishy can you remember the exact spot on the cut? might after go dredging!

and more! this is showing a bracket that as been chopped off im thinking its for hanging exhaust!

more pics!

right i have had a go at uploading some pics! a have looked at a few websites trying to id it? where all 348s 51m? did the 348 have a different frame to 349 as mine as rear frame loop

yep ishy it as 2 of them badges on tank cover! was that pic supposed to link to montesa site?

Hi all im new to this forum. and in need of some help identifying a montesa project i have just bought? the engine no is 51m8743 the frame reads 51m2004. should these numbers match? also the tank cover says 349 under the many coats of paint! any help would be great and pics of bike in orginal state! thanks in advance!

float height float bowl cap and sort jets out and its a decent carb! sorted mine out when it was new 06 250cc rev3 and i have had no bother since once carb is sorted no need to touch it again!

yep & snow aint melting right quick here in silsden!

no need to gap rings your barrel will of been replated and then bored to orginal size! so just bang piston back in being carefull to locate them correctly on piston!

no timing belt on duratorq engine there chain driven!

this is how we bleed them at ford dealers 1st remove pipe from filter housing that feeds filter from tank then you need to conect a hand primer pump between pipe and filter and pump until all air is bleed out you can do this by cracking off injectors and watching them till fuel comes out you will need ignition on for this! or you can remove filter and fill to top with fresh diesel then remove air intake pipe and get someone to crank it while you spay some easy start in! the engine should start up keeping spraying till engine runs on its own! hope this helps i have worked at ford dealer for 20 years and i know there not the best to bleed!

yep screw driver every time for me to remove cap!

rim is just badly pitted and ineed off rechroming! anyway i have had a pm from a tc member and he as 2 new nos rims for 60 quid!

hi im on the look out & finding difficult to find a new front wheel rim for a ty 80 the size is 16 x1.40 32 spoke! is there any other rim that will do the job was looking at the specs for a beta mini trial and they have a 16 x1.35 front wheel ! but im unsure how many spokes they have! & would i have to get spokes made to fit rim? or would orginal yam spokes fit!

what frame is it? also is that a majesty tank and looks like twinshock engine in a mono frame? or have i had 2 many! and i thought about having a bid!!!!!!!

right shockers are on but top bush of shocker is wider than frame mounting anyone come across this and how did you get round it? i still have orginal yam shocks and they fit with no problem! have i got a dodgy pair of new betor shocks?

Right daft question time! just purchased some new ty 80 betor rear shocks! and was wondering which way up they go? is chrome damper rod to top? if so it would mean betor stickers on shocks would be upside down! does it make a difference which way they go?

Hi! can anyone help me with the correct colour code for the ty white paint! so i can get some mixed for my project! cheers for any help

good on grimbo he allways does it when it comes to the scott!