crowley

After the film, you must read 'That near death thing' by Rick Broadbent. An utterly excellent read that has you howling with laughter one minute and then welling up with tears the next. If you love bikes, this is essential reading.

I've got a Mots helmet and like it. The fit is the same as an Arai or HJC (which are my road and track helmets) I like it apart from the silly plastic buckle, despite this it works well. Not tried any other trials helmets so cant say how they compare, but when trying various others on at the Off Road show, the Mots fitted me best.

Thanks all. Sorted now

Anyone know where I can buy a Ducati black HT/CDI coil for a 300.? Some urgency for this, so it would be good if they did plastic rather than cheque. Thanks

Apart from bikes, rock climbing is my other passion and I became fanatical about training for this. The intense regime I adopted wasn't particulary successful (climbing hard rock is mainly a 'head' game) and and the end result was getting tennis elbow (being an 'old git' this was to be expected I suppose!) This is what brought me back into Trials as I thought it would give my upper limbs some respite. It's getting much better after 9 months but I found wearing a compression brace very effective. You can buy them in Boots made out of neoprene but it wasn't quite as comfy as the one I blagged from the local Orthopaedic Hospital. Have a word with your GP (if they are familiar with Sport injuries) and ask about anti inflamatories.

I put my boots upside down on a traffic cone, jet wash, leave in the airing cupboard to dry and then brush in Putoline leather wax.

The gasket should go on dry, however, I have used a dab of grease if just refitting the float bowl to an awkwardly mounted carb - like the middle one on a Trident. As for O ring lube, why not use a smear of 2 smoke oil?

I've just spotted this thread . Owning 7 Buells ( 6 aircooled and the first 1125 Rotax engined one in the UK - now used as a track bike) I can categorically say that the 'xr' 1200 wouldn't live with any of these on the road or the track, and I've ridden the faux XR extensively and have worked on a few that my mates own. The chief reason being lack of ground clearance, especially on left handers. They deck out as soon as you look at them. It's also funny that they're labeled as an XR (think US Dirt Track), which along with the Manx Norton, is probably one of the most successful race bikes ever. I also found the brakes pretty marginal considering the bulk they have to haul up. These new XR's are simply tarted up Sportsters, but without the luxury of a cassette gearbox (so if the output needle race in the gearbox goes (and they do), they are an economic write off. I don't like Jap bikes, but a well ridden R6 is more than capable of keeping my Ducati 1198 in sight, and performance wise, the Duc is in a different Universe to the XR. Guy Martin tested one of the Harris prepared faux XRs and said it was 'complete s##te' on the track, and these versions had been extensively and expensively prepared for the race series.

Axulsuv is spot on, the flywheel is fixed by a good fit on the taper. The key only locates it in the correct position. Glad you got it sorted though

Worked wonders on my 300 too

Only just read this topic (I don't have an Ossa) but 'Accustafil' is the only packing I'd use in a silencer (Buells and Ducatis blow anything else out). Wrap it snug, but not too tight and hold it in place with a little masking tape which will burn out.

It came from the Stafford show, don't know what model it's off. I've just got my hands on enough 'bends' to weld up a new stainless pipe when I get time - I hate decorative chrome

For their budget price, the Betors work very well. The compression is very progressive but the rebound is not quite as smooth as I would have liked - but like I said, for the money they work well (I'm comparing this with the thick end of £3k I've just spent on the K-Tech suspension for my Ducati 1198 ) I had to use the heavier springs (60 lb?) to get the rider sag correct for my 13 stone.

Cut off the headstock and brought the forks in to replicate Fantic 300 geometry, top tube replaced with box section, swinger shortened 1/2" and motor raised a touch. It could be raised more but I was in a rush owing to other projects and apart from it being a lot more complicated than a simple cut'nshut, I'm not sure the new geometry of drive sprocket, swinging arm pivot and rear sprocket would have been a good thing. Cheapo 26mm carb off Ebay (£25 ), forks eventually sorted with springs that give me correct sag, new shocks. Tuned (nearenuff )length pipe. Good thumpy bottom end but runs out of puff a bit when revved hard (but then, you don't really need to )

Yes, but modified with a hot air gun. I've just put a 240 tank, similarly modified onto my Fantic 300, so I might see if my original 300 tank fits.

Here's my XL Motorsport that I've altered the frame on;

I replaced the cheap and nasty OKO carb with a Dell Orto on my 300 and it pulls far more cleanly from the bottom end. The OKO pilot jet was unmarked and when I phoned the seller all I could get was 'it's fine for you bike'. Quite clearly he believes every 300 requires the same jetting - 35 years of setting bikes up for the track suggests otherwise

Thank you Ian, for your useful reply

Ian, I've used the search facility at length and couldn't find anything on the paint code for Fantic Red as used on the 300. Would you be good enough to point me in the right direction if you found anything. Ta!

I'd fit an old road tyre if you're going on a Dyno. When sorting the fueling on my Ducati 1198, I went through several (but they were old race slicks that had been heat cycled too many times) If you're just doing a power run, then your knobblie tyre MAY be ok, but it MAY slip on the roller and give a false reading.

I've used 'R' in my pre '60 race bike and it's main advantage, apart from excellent lubricity, it that it will 'gum' a piston into a bore at the point of seizure and can prevent metal to metal micro welds forming that causes terminal damage. Modern oils are much better for a cool running trials motor. One major disadvantage is that it is very hygroscopic and absorbed water can cause corrosion on bearing surfaces unless it's drained after each meeting. Mine is 'total loss' motor and the oil goes into a catch tank anyway, so it's not much of a problem. I love the stuff (Morris oils MLR - their version of 'R') but my advice for your application would be to avoid

Like grib says, do the seals and the two 'O' rings. It's not unknown for the 'O' rings to be left out. Use a puller to get the mag rotor off and check the condition of the key that locates it. Keys are only supposed to locate things, it's the taper interference that provides the grip, but if it shears it can mar the surface.

Bill Pye has an exploded diagram on his site. I had previously thought that they'd be quick and easy to do like on a 300, but it would seem that Blocky is correct since the clutch side seal appears to side behind the main bearing?

You may well find that the shaft is worn where it it runs through the bush, so check this before you start making a bush.

Had some excellent service from Mr Pye last week and thoroughly recommend him. He sorted my Fantic 300 LT coil by return of post. Can't ask for more than that