crowley

I carry road/track bikes in my van quite a lot. I've found those wheel chocks good for a 120 section tyre, but a bit rubbish for my Trials bike. You'd be better off making something yourself out of wood etc. A bungee strap around the twist grip and brake helps a lot too (and sometimes helps bleed small bubbles out of the hydraulic system if you've got a modern bike)

I had exactly the same experience as Scorpa 250. The OKO is now sitting on a shelf unused.

Undo the top nut before you slacken the bottom yoke. It's much easier with the fork still clamped to the bike. First make sure you undo the top yoke bolts, as these can sometimes 'clamp' the top nut and make it more difficult to unscrew.

I use Motul Factory Line 15/50 in my road bikes. Available on Ebay.

I've just built a Powervalve 350 for racing. I set the squish at 8 thou and it runs way better than stock. An added benefit is that it runs much cooler - which has saved a few bob on an oversize ally radiator

The clutch on my 300 was just like that until I did the 'Beta clutch fix'. It now works a treat, no drag, no slip and easily slips into neutral at a standstill.

My money is on the LT coil

I bought a pit bike seat off Ebay for £6. With a bit of fettling, it's held on with reusable tie wraps. I can't remember what pit bike it was for, but there's quite a few that look like they could be made to fit.

Morris Lubricants sell a Castor based MLR, and they do a Postal service. That said, I only use it in my JAP race motors and since they're 'total loss' oiling, changing it frequently means emptying the catch tank. The binned oil is most excellent for starting lovely smelling bonfires in the garden

Have you tried 'softening' the cam in the throttle tube with a needle file? This sometimes works and costs nowt.

Plug chops are notoriously difficult with modern fuels owing to additives, even after hours on a Dyno tuning my Ducatis and Buells, the plugs can give contradictory readings to the info I get on A/F ratios which are logged. In any case, the chop has to be done after the motor is cut as quickly as possible, and even then you need to distinguish between colouration caused by the fuel and the colouration caused by the heat range of the plug. (There used to be a good NGK site detailing this) I'm interested as to why someone is saying that leaded petrol shouldn't be used in two smokes, since lead is not just used as a valve lube. In addition, many motor manufacturers now use synthetic as first fill and the engines run in just fine; - yes I've heard all the internet wisdom about synth being 'too slippery' and causing rollers to skid rather than roll (a favourite on Harley Davidson sites), and causing rings to not bed. I always suggest that they throw a handful of sand into their oil if this is the case I discussed this 'issue' with the UK ex Head of SKF at the Ulster GP last year and he said that their company used to get clogged with Emails asking these questions - which is why these type of questions are banned in the Tech Section of a bike site that I moderate on

I'm not sure the concept of 4 stroke engine braking is relevant on modern track bikes. I've just bought a EBR ecu for my Buell (Rotax) 1125 track bike. This adds a bit of fuel on the overrun to lessen engine braking, and after tweaking a bit on the Dyno, it feels a little like a 'sticky' throttle. It takes a bit of getting used to, but overall it feels better. On the road, I'd imagine it would be a nightmare.

'25 Years of Buell ' was spotted on Amazon for over £400. I have a copy autographed by its author, Court Canfield and also by Erik Buell. I've also seen the West Midlands rock climbing guide being offered for sale for silly money as well. Since I was one of the authors of this guide, I have a box full of new copies under my desk - I think I'll hang on to them for a bit

If you hose your boots clean, upside down on a couple of 'borrowed' traffic cones (ask a student ), then they don't get wet inside and air out nicely.

Sounds like you're getting heel lift. A common problem in climbing boots when you're front pointing on crampons or skinning uphill on skis. Persevere with it until the boots break in, my climbing boots are now like slippers. In the meantime, buy some Compeed gel blister patches to prevent further blisters. Tip - wait until the patches fall off (can take some days) don't be tempted to pull them off as the skin will come with them.

Use a small blade bit from a screwdriver that has interchagable bits. If it's stiff, add a small socket for extra grip. (I think they're imperial - I forget the size)

That's possibly because I'm an idiot when it comes to pooters. I've released the security lock on the Photobucket album now, so try again, it may work?

My Fantic 300 with a different tank. If you scroll through, there's a photo of my XL 250 trials and a TY 175 that I've recently sold. For you tarmac fans there's also a photo of the wife and me with the greatest race bike EVER built

Make your own! Easy to adapt a pit bike seat (£6) off Ebay.

Use a ratchet strap from the s/arm over the seat (or a big mate) to get the arm in line with the s/arm pivot and front sprocket, and then check the tension so it's just slack, since this will be the tightest you need it.

I took a little more than that off but I didn't take any photos either. IIRC the weight is a little larger than the rotor itself.

I bought a 150 last week to play with and after reading about the flywheel mod, I decided that I'd try it myself. I didn't lighten it as much as some people say you should in case I lost some of the bottom end grunt, but wow, what a difference it's made! When I get my hands on a spare flywheel, I'll fire up the Myford again and go the full monty.

I tried Spadas too. In fact, all 3 sizes fitted my head as badly as each other. That's why I bought a Mots - because it fitted like a glove, phnarr..phnarr The Spada looked good value if it suits your head shape. Helmet fit is everything.