chuckindenver

Welcome..the Rev is a great bike, tough, work horse, and nothing turns like a Rev. i wished i could have kept mine, i agree, before you modify anything, talk with local riders and see what oil they have been using, the Beta clutch has a taste for oils that others dont, hook up with a local club, and try and ride with others at your skill level, and ride often.. good for thr body, great for the soul..

iv had this issue, if i start off in second...so..from neutural into second, as soon as you put a load, then back off, it jumps out.. if you start in first, then second, it stays in gear. i had this issue only a few times on my 09 290 EVO... once i got in the habbit of not starting out in second...it wasnt an issue.. a few other Evo owners had the same issue..

fast. my modern bikes have em...and a while back someone told me to try a slow one to match my vintage bikes.. it was a mess, worst experiance ever. i have since then switched all my trialers over to fast grips..best thing i ever did...when i need a hand full, i get it with out too much wrist movement..

look into rockshocks.. little pricey...but seem to work very well, hate to say it...iv seen redwings on my buddies bikes, that have been giving them years of good service.

i could never get enough action out of fox shocks for trials, worked good on my twin shock MXrs, i have Konis on all my twin shock trialers...i set them, and have never had to do anything other then clean em and use em.

wonder if they changed the pipe, or if the new frame has a sharper rake? my 13 is a 4T and they use the old box frame..

if you do the springs..its best to replace both..i learned that one the hard way...still have wrist issues lol

unless you use Auto Trac. it will swell the discs.i may have the name wrong, its the GM transfer case fluid, i had nothing but probems using ATF. i use MTL 85WT, or Elf and change it ever 3 events..if not more. if you update to the smooth clutch slave, youll be much happier... i did that on my 09, and loved it..i dont ride 30 foot splatters, so i dont need the in and out clutch, but i like them to work smooth. never heard of the front wheel hitting the pipe.. anything can happen i guess, i installed an S3 T pipe, and loved it, really smoothed out the power band. iv heard guys having good luck with ATF in the gassers, but no good things in the Betas, use what the manual tells you, and you cant go wrong. i switched to the 4T this year, and its a learning curv all its own

i dont have big boy pants...ill just wear my nickers

ATC 200 and 250 pistons are pretty much the same...look ,, you will find..

i know of 4, 09 and 10 Evo frames that were replaced here in Colorado, washing out isnt the issue. the springs are weak, and wear out fast, i had to adjust mine as hard as they would go to get any action from them. unless you weigh under 165LBs. they for lack of a better word..suk.. updating the front and rear springs was the best upgrade i did to mine. the wheel bearings arent that big an issue if you grease them with regular maint, as well as the shock linkage. when i ordered my new bike this year, i added the heavy Red springs, now that the bike is broke in, it works very well. for a newer rider, or someone that doesnt ride the upper classes, the springs may not be an issue, if your over 200 LBS, they will be.

evo and Rev are the same oil levels ..the 09 to 2011 springs were soft, and tended to collaps fast... check you Beta dealer if you dont belive me..why do you thing i changed it? with me just standing on the bike, the rear was almost on the rear tire, untill they finally figured out the spring rate, with good springs..i had mine adjusted up as far as it would go, and that crushed the spring even more. updated springs...fixed the issue. i could set the spring rate down, and adjust the dampening like it should be... iv been on a Beta, since the TR32...a guy learns a few things in that amount of time. unless your over 185LBS, the new Red springs will be too much,, the stock 2012 or 23 springs will be perfect for the average rider.. the original pre 2011 springs are junk and wear out fast.... change the fork oil 2 times a year, more if you ride alot, flush the fork tubes as well, 7.5 wt is too much for a trials bike.. unless to plan on MXing with it as well. some riders like slow suspension, adjusting the dampening can slow the action a bit.. use what Beta says in the manual. i use Bel Ray, and change it mid season..i use seal savers and clean them regularly, i have yet to have a fork seal leak or go bad since the Rev3s.. seemed the early Beta forks came leaky from the factory, but i have them figured out as well. caustic material seals fixed the issue, as well as seal savers, dirt is what tears up seals. and lack of maintance..

swap out the motosplat with a Ducati set up from a Zero or Synt..

some pics

heres the hook up. first, remove the fender{mudguard} trim the lip of the edge that goes over the air box. install plastic screws in the rear holes, you can use door panel push clips from an auto parts store as well, screws look nicer, so.. when you loop it, or back it into a rock...it will pull the plastic screws out, and let the fender flop up, rather then snap off. FYI: 2013 fenders will fit 2009 and up bikes, you have to order the air box cover as well, make cleaning the air filter much easier. only mod you need to do, is drill a hole in the fender for the very front screw. see my post on the 4T

Evo, is a big step up from the Rev. and a step back in one area. my Rev3 was a turning machine, it would turn most corners others wont without a hop. engine is basicly the same, with some power updates..thats a mixed blessing, if your used to a Rev, then you will likely push into a 5 on a corner with an Evo the first couple rides. once you figure the Evo out..your in heaven. the bads. like all Beta Trials ..the kick stand sux. until 2013 they just didnt seem to give a hoot about the stand. same for the stock pegs..like they came off a Shwinn 10 speed.. take em off, and buy some nice pegs. 09 t0 2011 Evos had weak springs that sagged pretty fast..easy to fix with a new set, might ask the seller if they have already done so, 09 10 Evos had some frame cracking issues...most were warrantied out, you can have a Beta dealer find out with the vin#. like the Revs the Evo 09 10, had the tubeless rim with rim seal...they leaked, i got so sick of pumping the rear tire, i upgraded to the new rim for 700.00. rear fender...pricey..and they break easy..just like the Rev. trimming the underside lip were it wraps over the air box, and replacing the 2 rear screws with plastic screws will save you 200.00 down the road. clutch is pretty much unchanged for the Evo, other then the levers and perches, use good light oil, and dont use ATF..youll be fine..ask the seller what oil, and how often he changed it..if he used ATF..youll be installng a new clutch pretty soon..like any used Trials bike..chain sprokets, shock linkage, ect..ask the seller if they greased and maintained..ask for records if they have them,..and avoid a Pros old bike..its been ridden hard...real hard, and dropped alot..pass it up, and let someone else enjoy it..best deal youll find is a older riders bike, thats been riding for years, and knows how to take care of a motorycle.. just ask lots of questions, and take it for a ride in daylight

depends on what year.. 09 to 2011 had spring issues, updating with standard 2012 or 13 springs will make a world of change. and an update to the new 82 {red} springs is an even better jump. 5wt, and ill have to look up my notes on the amounts.. i start at the lowest settings, and adjust till it feels nice..and reacts well, but not too fast. update. 370cc Right 350cc left

havnt seen the budget bogwheeler in a few weeks, gotta love Billy..

in the new class, it will be a level playing field. i have some older ex pro riders working on Fantics, and TYs to put the hurt on the expert line this year.. that was my whole idea of the new class, some of the 35 to 40 year old riders have no interest in the twin shockers, but started out on Fantics Betas ect. and i saw some TYs and TR32s being cut up into twin shockers just so they could ride em. so..i pushed a new class, and they kinda opened the door a crack...it may open up even more, my first Beta was a TR32 ex world round bike, it was leaps and bounds better then the 348 Cota i was on.. i wished now that i had both bikes back.. as this sport moves foward, it needs to change as the riders change, any venue that refuses to grow and change is doomed to fail... the more riders that have fun, the better..we all just wanna ride right? wouldnt it be awesome, to have a Merlin, dragon fly or JCM show up at an event,?

im not sure, depends on my work load, and travel funds..this is my busy time of year so i have to work it hard, since im doing the NATC nationals as well as ITSA , RMTA and WMTA it will be busy, and trials mastering 3 events as well. however. i wont be on the Honda for ITSA and will let someone else take the expert modern twin shock plate for 2013, ill be heading the expert line on the new Historic single shock class on a Beta TR34.. this should be a great year with ITSA mountain west..some great riders are stepping back in vintage with this new class. iv been talking with some old Pros that have raised and eye brow with this class..i wont name them..but f they show...youll remember them for sure.

http://mtwestvintagetrials.org/

use full synthitic in your Honda 4T. change it often..very often...dont waste time and money holding onto past oils... Fuchs makes one of the best oils for Hondas.. iv used it in my TLR250 and have road it hard, in the desert heat...with my big ars on the pegs...clutch still works great, with no chatter issues. if youv not had Syn, oil in the bike, change it after 20 hours of use the first time, clean the screen well, http://www.silkolene.com/index.php?calling=product⊂=offroad# that way you can say,,,i changed my fuchin oil lol

by the way...i would love to have you come ride with us here this year Scott.,, our mountain west ITSA is really taking off. i pushed a new air cooled single shock class this year..so i wont ride the Honda with ITSA, and will jump on a TR34 Beta..and ride the Honda on the TS line with the NATC nationals. im glad you like the TLR...happy that its being enjoyed, and played with...

if your lucky enough to find a real TLR250 for sale. unrestrored...2500 to 3500 if your lucky, if you take a Reflex down to the frame, and throw everything but the engine in the scrap pile. and then start your project. forks, shocks, rims, brakes, clutch, sterring head, shifter, tank, seat, pipe assembly, and so on are all TLR only,. id rather have a high boy TL250 then a reflex, as iv said, likely 50 or less TLR 250,s were brought into the U.S., even less HRC bikes, finding a real one is tough, when i sold the crispy one pictured, i had alot of bids and wanters...i wanted to keep it in the states, and felt it needed to go to someone that would ride it and compete on it, i actually had the one i have up for sale for a while...and glad i pulled it and kept it.. its one of my favs..and gets lots of comments when ever i ride... hard to get hop up mods for the TLR 250.. some ATC and ATV hop up mods will work.. im lucky, mine does what i need it to just fine bone stock, cept a clutch mod.. i modified CRF after market pegs, cut them off, and moved them down and back as far as they would go, didnt have to mess up the frame. Wess pipe as you can see, i used a XR250R clutch and springs, with an easy pull lever on the case.. one finger works easy.

nice shot of the years of dust on the Rothmans sticker.