scot taco

I found this on the net. Any ideas what bike was used or is it a custom frame?

If it,s an option,you could maybe put a spacer in the head to lower compression on a 280/300 and tame it down a bit. A friend of mine did that on his older Gasser and said it made it easier to start and ride. He was a machinist and made what he needed.I don,t know if something like that is available after market but it might be worth looking into.

Sorry motosolex,I meant to say that I bought the condenser at the parts store and mounted it under the tank not the points. And yes, swapping the the coils did work and she runs fine.I,m not sure if they are the same part number or not.

I bought the points at my local NAPA auto parts store. I just asked for some from an early 70,s Ford 302 or inline six cylinder and I believe the ones I put in were from a six cylinder in a Ranger truck. I mounted them under the tank on the HT coil bracket.

My best friends buddy and ex-brother-in-law was the top or one of the top trials riders here in IL for a long time. He said that when he first started in the early seventies that he would practice static balancing for hours in the driveway on his converted Hodaka. Being an enduro/mx guy it is something I never practiced until now. I think it,s an essential skill that helps for riding any kind of dirt bike.When compared to him it really shows because I still suck and he is still really good and even when woods riding he will just check out on his Sherco and leave my buddy and I for dead.If my kids would have wanted to ride I would have definitely had them start out riding trials.

Speed and Sport in California will have a throttle cable for your TY. I,m pretty sure you will have to buy a new Domino throttle assembly to go with it,but they are not expensive.

You could try L.A. Sleeve,they might be able to do it.

Hugh,s Bultaco has PPG paint codes listed on their website and the Grabber blue that we used on my brothers 199A looks pretty good. The PPG code they have for Bultaco red is Torch Red DAR 74013.

I don,t know anything about Falcons,but would it be a cheaper option to order a seal kit and service them yourself ? I,m sure there are other members on here that have had them apart and could offer help.I have a set of older Fox shocks on my 199a and I think the seal kit was about 50.00 and they were pretty easy to service even though they were the first that I have ever done.

Very Nice looking TY monos thai-ty. I had a 350 that I should have kept,but it was near impossible to find a piston kit so I sold it.They are hard to find here and the 250 is even more rare.

I just had a look on ebay and there are not many TY tanks for sale and the ones that are listed are stupid money for the bad condition they are in.I would either go the shedworks route or fit a Clarke plastic tank.I think the 73,74 Honda cr125 Clarke tank will fit the TY and does not look too bad.

My 74 pursang has no tensioner from the factory and I have been racing it since 98 with only one new primary chain in that time with no troubles.I had a 77 pursang that had a tensioner and even after fitting a new one still made noise.I talked to Hughs Bultaco about it and he said that year pursang always did have noise from the primary so I just ran it.My 199a has one but is quiet so I don,t know.I think I would take feetups advice and just run it with no tensioner. He are pics of my then new piston after it ingested the small end bearing.I keep it on the shelf as a reminder.

I believe those frames are pretty similar but could be wrong.I do know that they would have both had frame rails under the engine.The one with just a skid plate has been modified that way which was a pretty common mod.For used parts call Bultaco Classics in NY or Lynn Mobely at Mobelys Bultaco.I have only delt with Bultaco Classics which use to be called Hughs Bultaco.Same people and they have a ton of used parts not listed on their website.

No,I just flushed it out real good with premix.I did have to resort to a back up cylinder and piston that was on the last bore.It was a little loose so I sent the piston out to be ceramic coated to bring it closer to tolerance.I was a little skeptical about doing that but it is still running pretty good,although I haven,t raced much since then,maybe ten motos on it.

I should have put this in my last post,but my wrist pin bearing was also a new one.The problem was that I had an updated rod kit that I put in the year before with a 1mm larger wrist pin and bearing.When I did the top end I forgot about it and they sent a stock bearing. I should have caught it,but I put it together about 10:30 pm the night before a race and I just rushed it too much.Anyway,the next day in practice it had a pretty pronounced whirring,but it was worse as the revs climbed so probably not the cause of your noise.It also did not make it through practice before it grenaded

It is a bit hard to tell on video rather than in person,but I had a similarly odd whirring sound in my Pursang.It turned out to be a bad wrist pin bearing. Beautiful bike!

Looks like brand new,nice work!!

That is a really nice looking Beamish,nice work! I wish they were available over here.

Thank you ! I thought it was something like that. I kind of remember watching my Dad putting decals on a snowmobile using shampoo and water then a squeegee but that was about 45 years ago so my memory is a bit faded on exactly what he used.

I,m getting ready to apply a set of 199b style decals to my brothers bike and just wondering what is the best way to go about it ? I,m usually not too good at getting them straight and just wondered what I could put down that would enable me to move them around into place.It is a painted tank.

That is an awesome bike,nice job!