lee harris

its a remiote reservoir from an ohlins shock

I think it could also the fashion side of the sport that is urging more people to twin shock or "classic" trials. the question is what is driving the fashion. Do we need new colour schemes or are the sections getting too hard? It might take this thread off track but hard sections mean lots of crashes and that cost lots to repair....Not sure, but I think the sections in 1980 were much harder than in this years exmoor for example.......at least when I had the beamish. There seamed to be more rocks. So have we gone soft on twin shoch trials? so is it fashion? sections too hard or the cost to be "competitive???

Hi Gents, I just picked up a good 300 barrel with no fin damage. It has no cut out for the bigger flywheel so came off a 300 The bore is 72mm meaning it came from france. The 300 was sold there with 240 instead of 249 cc for insurance reasons. It needs a new piston so I will get it bored to 74mm and 249. My question is on porting. The 300s all had a so called low port motor, later 249s where high port motors. I think it refers to the exhaust port, I can compared to a 303 barrel I have but do I want to change the exhaust or other port timing? Info please!!! Lee

All mine seem to go off tune when the bike gets hot. Mabe a fantic thing but the motors are all new. just wanted to know what you get! L

let us know how yer get on especially when hot..... lee

nice littlun....your garage is bitter than my flat....

nice littlun....your garage is bitter than my flat....

Hi Ed, didnt work=did not lift and separate In this case, the plates have stuck together. Unusual on a running bike, but maybe the oil was wrong. What did you use? Put it in 6th gear with the engine off. Pull the clutch lever in and jerk the bike backlwards sharply severly times. This will separate in most cases. Then ride it and slip the clutch a lot to clean the steel plates. Then maybe change the oil? If it happens again, the steel plates have rust on them and the clutch will need to be removed and cleaned with steel wool. (easy if you know the trick for the kickstart mechanism) Let me know OR The clutch slipped? The oil is wrong and / or the plates are worn out I use ATF

A new piston and rings yes, but not a new barrel. It can be re-plated to match your new piston and I would recommend this. Cost is about 180 quid (http://www.langcourt.com/index.htm) If you are real unlucky, the crank and mains may need doing also.....

Steve, I can get a zylinder very easily. The pistons are difficult On vacation next week let me know L

is this waht you need glenn? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dellorto-Carb-SHA141...id=p3286.c0.m14

my mate between sections http://www.lets.de/Trialbilder/moto_0121.jpg WARNING: The above link is not for the faint-hearted!

I think......not

I would put my money, and quite a lot if pushed, on the exhaust and silencer. If it is crudded up, the bike will never rev out. And using caustic will just burn the carpet. If the exhaust and silencer are choked up, they will feel heavy. Start with the end can and cut it open and have a look. if not buy a wes although some say they are not as good. On most fantics, they are 20 years old now, the main box will need cutting open and repacking as well. nice piccie of a curt 300 exhaust on the classictriasl website HTH lee

Hi treeevor, many people, myself included, think the ts 185 version of the 200 fanny was crap. Bilco has one so may differ. I think he has an oko fitted. As you have found out, the std bore and 156cc works very well. Fantic was the first with a nicosil alu barrel and with close clearances and constant expansion rate for barrel and piston, the bike was great and did not rattle when worn or hot like the monts or bultos of the time. (std clearanve when new was 0,035mm piston to bore). If you have a new iron liner you will need 0,07mm to start and with very little wear it will rattle like a bag of nails. Fantic did a 175 conversion for the works boys but kept the nikosil. The pistons were one offs from asso and were never made in numbers but the motor is great...I have one. I would stay with standard if it were me. lee

yes, like these

I vacuum moulded exact sidepanel copies for the 200 and 240. They fit perfectly and very quite flexible....a bit pink though. Trouble was cost and price. I had many people enquire and some did take some but the cost and hence the price was quite high. If your sidepanels are cheap enough, people will stop making their own. I would turn some original pins though for correct fixing into the rubber grommets...but that drives the cost up ;-(

The 240s came as std with a 98 or 100 main jet. Assuming you are not running hundreds of miles on the road , ot riding like a crosser, put a 95 in it. it will be much better Lee

reet grand!

Try this. On the wheels, 5 th gear, engine off. Pull the clutch lever in and pull/jerk the bike sharply backwards. Try it 10 times or so. Works on minarelli fantic some of the time. If not they have to be stripped! HTH lee

Hi Bob, whatever you decide, the uk is the place to get it. The parts are easier to get there and not as expensive as here on the continent. Experience will tell you that buying a finished or part finished bike is cheaper than starting with a bare frame. I think also a bsa will be miles cheaper than an ariel (one on ebay for 5000 pounds at the moment). if you want to go pre 65, think about a two stroke also. The dkw and jawas are easier to get (here) than 4 bangers and will be very light when finished. Also bantams are available on ebay readily in the uk and a full engine rebuild on a bantam is about 1000

The hard kick down has more to do with the flywheel and internal mass than the compression. My 250 PE suzuki has a much higher compression than my 249 fantic but feels lots easier to kick over. It has a very small flywheel!

done....get it in the post please! lee

we all know the whys and wherefores, and risks of late nite beer and evil bay.... just bought a 320 here, 1980,......"runs perfectly"........ soulds like a tractor on one cylinder were can i get pistons, (nikasil bore?) and a conrod kit? what about airbox and carb rubbers? Martin M?? any idea what a fulll engine rebuild will cost? Anybody recommend anyone to do it. i can only split fanny cos the gearbox doesnt fall all over the place....

Either! Seriously, the flywheel you said the flywheel had been replaced? The shaft taper and the flywheel taper need matching exactly. This was done in the plant and new / different flywheels or flywheels which have turned at high speed due to a woodruf key shearing are no longer matched to the shaft taper. go and get some valve lapping past, or grease and a handful of sand (only kidding) and lap the flywheel, without the key onto the shaft. i.e line it up approx and rotate back and forth 15 degrees with lapping paste in between. You will see the shaft take on a dull grey colour. If this is only 1mm or so wide, the flyheel will only sit on the shaft that much. Lapp away until the band is nice and wide. Then clean the paste from shaft and flywheel and screw it up nicely with a new woodruf key. Away you go.......