heffergm

I can't be the only one that would have preferred to just see how far he can wheelie a stock bike...

The fuel tank fire in Raga's case was just a loose cap. The tanks splitting may or may not be a thing (i.e. I have no idea!)

Wow, that's something I'd do... which isn't exactly high praise I figured they'd tack weld some weight on a factory bike, because I can see that mess coming free pretty easily. Although if they don't want to do that for whatever reason, I'd venture one suggestion: put all that weight inside a small plastic box, use adhesive on the bottom of the box, then zip tie the entire thing down, both length and width-wise. No chance of losing individual weights. Zip tie'ing a block of wheel weights like that makes them want to break apart.

Yup, just like to know for my own edumacation.

Thanks! So mine is basically this shock which comes on the Raga, minus the separate compression damping: http://www.gasgasmotos.es/image/racingparts/bt3000230131.jpg Which from what you're saying means I need the larger bearing kit.

I guess this makes me feel good... being the only one to destroy your shock bushings must mean I'm special.

I think the rules need a rethink. Trials can't really afford to DQ riders. Aside from showing up at an event drunk and incoherent (and maybe not even then) a minimum weight limit failed test shouldn't really result in a DQ, especially if the test is undertaken at pre-trial scrutineering. How about a "looks like your bike is underweight... go add some lead so it passes tech and come back in 10 minutes".

If Raga and Bou went missing, things would be a lot tighter. But for whatever reason in competition the gap between Bou and Raga can be almost as large as the gap between Raga and everyone else. There's the odd exception, but that's the way its been for a while. Nice 3rd from Fajardo though.

Ugh... really? What bike was it, I might want one. Sounds like they might be the only manufacturer realistically representing their claimed dry weight!

That one definitely looks new... in the sense that it has new stickers, and they found the shelf with the 2013 frame paint on it.

That I believe.

Anyone know which shock bearing the later model GG uses in the Reiger shock on the Racing models? Specifically 2014. I'd rather not tear the bike down to measure and not be able to ride until new bushings show up. It's either this one: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/spherical-bearing-15x25x13-gasgas-rear-shock-bearing-reiger.html Or this slightly smaller one: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/spherical-bearing-12x22x12-gasgas-pro-beta-shock-bearing.html The 2014 parts manual lists the top one as BT280214300, which splatshop mentions as being incorrect (but presumably indicates that that particular bearing is the one I want, part number aside). But I've had all kinds of things be wrong in that parts manual, so I thought I'd confirm first...

Yeah, let's make it more confusing!

Sorry to hear it. Other than me burning through brake pads and chains from riding so much, my 2014 has been magnificent.

I noticed in the press materials for the 2017 GG that the frame is called out as being made from '25CrMo4', the implication being that this is something new to this year. Which begs the question, what were the previous frames made from?

I've not noticed tickover changing when my fan comes on, but if your idle is low and the fan is already on and you raise the revs, yes, the fan speed will increase a bit.

As long as it holds air it's fine for a novice.

Looks like a mislabeled 2014 to me...

Clutch out rattle in neutral is normal. Pull the clutch in and it should mostly go away. I don't run ATF, but if you want to the recommendation is Dexron III. I wouldn't bother with with seals or anything on the carb. It's not an old bike, they should be fine. Just take it apart, spray carb cleaner through all the jets and reassemble. The fork tubes are another story. If you can feel the nicks with your fingernail you'll need to fill them. Lots of guys like clear nail polish. Sand the rough edges down first with some fine grit sand paper.

So I just went an took another look, and realized that I could swap the aluminum tube that the peg pivots on. The ones in the stock pegs are visibly longer than the Jitsie ones, so using those prevents any compression of the hangers.

Does anyone have the S3 Hard Rock pegs (I'm looking at the aluminum ones in particular, but for this question it probably doesn't much matter)? I currently have Jitsie pegs, and I've realized that there's a pretty substantial gap between the sides of the peg hangers and the pegs themselves, which means that, aside from the pegs moving a bit, when tightening up the peg bolt it puts a lot of stress on the hanger. This is unlike the stock pegs where they fit very snugly in the hanger bracket. I'm curious if the S3 pegs are more accurately machined such that they fit better than the Jitsie's do. I may try to fashion a shim (i.e. a sanded down washer) in the meantime.

Have you had a pair of NoStops? The soles don't break in

They definitely aren't like Gaerne's. They're really more like No Stops with replaceable soles, a slightly smaller toe box, and a little more padding. I'd say they're a little more compliant in the sole compared to the NoStops, but not by much if at all. Which is fine by me, I prefer that to the Gaerne's.

Stock, yes. As for the geometry, it's what I didn't like. The front just felt too steep to me. But this is all preference, and I'm sure I could learn to love it and even prefer it with time on the bike. The problem is I don't really want to have to come to grips with new geometry every time I change bikes, so I just decided to stick with what works. But it does look fantastically put together, I don't imagine anyone is unhappy with theirs.

If you tighten the bolt and then the nut, the lever will bind up. As above, tighten the bolt but then back it out a turn or so (you'll get the idea and can adjust as needed), then tighten the nut.