heffergm

The 1:30 stop allowed scoring is the most common system in use at the national level by a landslide (Italy, France, Japan, Spain, US, +++). Sure, you can screw it up if your section setters don't know what they're doing, but it's not like there isn't a lot of experience with this setup. I'm a million times happier awarding 5's for failing a time cut versus attempting to decide if someone has stopped or not.

That shouldn't happen. The radiator has a pressure relief valve built into it.

Fat through the middle.

60 seconds feels a bit short to me (unless the section are shortened up obviously). The Italian and US nationals (stop allowed) are 90 seconds. I'd have to go back and double check, but I think the Spanish are similar. So I guess the question would be why didn't they just adopt the same time limit that every other stop allowed national championship uses.

There are tons of them around here, ridden from clubman level up through more advanced, and whatever differences there may be, they all seem to do fine on them. To me the feel like a pregnant horse through the footpegs, so I'd never bother with one, but clearly some people like them...

You just can't let anything go, can you. It must be a hard life...

I'm a multi national, and most of the wars fought of any significance were fought before I was born, so I don't have a lot to work out for myself.

You guys are wound up tighter than a drum. Relax, you'll figure Brexit out... eventually.

People miss things. Oh well. So he finishes the day on 5 and only cleans everybody elses clock by 15 instead of 20. As for stops, Japan is always lenient: you kind of have to be when the majority of the sections are literally impossible to ride no stop (although on day one everyone got surprised in one section where the chief actually decided to call a ton of stops).

The short answer is, they all seem to work this way (meaning, AJP clutch master on these Sherco's). I tried two other '19 Sherco's last week and they both act the same. We put another master cylinder on the bike (making this master #3) and while initially it seemed to not exhibit the same behavior, by the end of the day it was exactly as it had been before. I didn't notice the bite point moving around or have any other issues with the clutch, so I've decided to just ignore it.

Without fabricating a special tool, your best bet is swingarm off and flip it upside down to get some leverage. Alternative is flip the whole bike upside down

Unless it shipped with dot4 in it, which is unlikely, it's only ever had mineral oil in it. Clutch pack would not be relevant to the symptoms.

Well, wasn't the slave either, or at least not the slave piston. No signs of scoring in the slave. Baffling. Unless it's possible to get a bad master cylinder, a bad rebuild, and another bad master. The likelihood seems low...

https://youtu.be/jssHZvtvcmg?t=13

The manual is correct. 2017+ models with diaphram clutches all take ~700mL. The fill plug doubles as an inspection hole, so you could always just stuff it as full as you can then whatever runs out was extra, with the bike level on its tires. You could use 10w40 motor oil, but most folks use 75w gear oil (Maxima MTL, Silkolene Gear Oil Light, etc.)

Well, it's not the master. New one on, same behavior. Slave rebuild next...

Unlikely, unless both the factory and the replacement were the wrong piston kits.

'19 Sherco. It's an AJP master. I'm working through this with the dealer obviously to get parts, but narrowing things down might save some time.

Interesting... my new piston lasted a few weeks. It definitely does seem to be doing what you say though, sticking.

So I've got an odd clutch problem. The bite point basically moves around, typically in, up to a point. After the clutch is let back out, the engagement point will gradually migrate its way back to where it was originally, as evidenced by the free play in the lever. Another way of saying this: set free play to ~2mm, pull the clutch in a bit, let it out, free play is now 6mm. Leave it alone for ~10 seconds and the free play is now back where it was originally set. I've put a master cylinder rebuild kit in it once already, and the problem seemed to improve, but it's now back to being as bad it was originally. I've got a new master cylinder coming. I don't see evidence that the bore in the old one is actually flawed somehow (and I don't see evidence of a burr or similar, and the seals on the piston don't appear knicked at all). So until the master shows up, given the behavior and the results of changing out the piston once, what are bets that it's going to fix it, or do you think it's the slave? I've seen no signs of fluid loss.

Yeah, nothing ambiguous about 'boot'.

Yeah, this one always kills me. It's not really a common thing to say in American English, as it sounds a bit old fashioned. But knowing the British English meaning, at first I couldn't come up with a synonym in American English for 'front bottom', as it just seemed alien to refer to that part of the body as bottom. But I guess 'crotch' would be closest

Gas. One word can in fact have multiple meanings.