faussy

Just because the frame is black doesn't mean it was originally one of the black framed shercos. Theres only one brace between the down tube and top tube so it is 2001-2005. Also the tank is definitely not post 2005 looking at how the top bolt of the tank mounts to the frame. The exhaust has the plastic guard on it so not 2001. That leaves either 02 03 04 or 05 The clutch cover has a centre badge, the 2005 and i think the 2004 also, had 'sherco' cast on the outside, so this leaves 02 or 03 The 03 had dark coloured crankcases, these are silver, so 2002 So this all points to an 02, unless its a bitsa

Lower ground clearance, lower c of g... ? Regarding turning radius, the turning radius of a beta is what makes a lot of club men love it, because they cant hop. The turning radius of a bike is rather academic to an advanced rider. Its also what makes it tuck and throw you over the bars easier. You cant have your cake and eat it

Bill Wilkinsons greeves, the last british bike to win the ssdt is till floating about, think i seen it at this years prize giving.

I wouldnt worry about it. A 4 stroke yes, but a 2 stroke with no gearbox oil, not so bad

I run 710 myself. I wouldn't run the recommended rock oil even if it was available

I see the bit you mean now. Jitsies frame protectors fall short of protecting that area

"Under and in front of the footpegs" Are you referring to the underside of the sump plate??

The Xlites just aren't good value for money IMO. They wear too quick, with very little (most of the times undetectable) increase in performance. I also end up running the Xlite at half a pound, a pound higher pressure to avoid punctures which kinda undos the extra grip they provide from the softer compound

You're right, hes talking ****

Theres only two bar sizes (7/8-22mm) and the more commonly used on newer bikes (9/8-28mm) also known as Fatbar. You have the 28mm. All major trials brands do them, rental, jitsie, s3 etc

The part of your diagram with 3 separate tap configurations and 3 arrows is the correct way. Car antifreeze should be fine

Why are we not allowed to know?

As paul says id try contacting s3, you never know they might have good customer support ? My money would be on either CP (grade 2 )or 6-4 (grade 5). A CP (er ti 2) rod will work adequately on the 6-4

Some people here don't seem to realise there's 40 different grades of titanium alloy and they are pretty much grade specific. Chances are its either grade 2 or grade 5

Team selection for GB? Price and Martyn, with no Dabill... If i didn't know better it would nearly look like the X-trial organisers chose that team

Pretty sure that's standard although the hole is usually a little tidier around the edges than yours check out the pics in this thread

Are you seriously saying the previous woodruff key was made from a penny?! When i seen the state of the heads of the Philips screws i knew someone had obviously been playing silly buggers with your ignition at some point in the past

How can having to travel to a bearing shop and potentially get bearings that don't fit, be less hassle than having them delivered to your door for only 30 pounds knowing they will fit? But since you asked

Ive stopped using the xlite purely because of their wear rate and lack of value for money. I ended up using them at slightly higher pressure to avoid punctures and when i did i hardly noticed any difference in grip to the standard x11. I run x11s Fuji doesn't ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHERCO-PAIOLI-38MM-TRIPLE-CLAMPS-YOKES/233151581393?hash=item3648eaccd1:g:Ci0AAOSw3bBceYDz Im not 100% sure but the yokes that run to about 2009 may also fit along as they are 38mm

If you have an old pair of reasonably straight handlebars lying about then they are worth bringing. It says he's in scotland, so this is definitely a must ?

https://trialendurodirect.com/product/gg-pro-model-engine-protector-and-mudflap/ Definitely worth it, had one on all my gasgass

How long is it going to be before you build your own TS or pre65 frame?

Your front brake is the envy of a lot of people

The rear rim looks in good nick to me, although for that style and age of rim, getting the rim tape to seal for a tubeless tyre could be a pain (they weren't the most reliable even when new). Id go as above, down the tubed route, performance wise you won't lack anything over a tubeless tyre, exactly the same compound and you can run the same pressure. Hard to say regarding the front without seeing it in person, although it does look corroded. Your spokes and nipples all look in good condition, would be a shame not to keep these at least