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Does anyone here know who does porting work on BSA Bantam engines?? I have heard of someone in the Midlands (not Jim Pickering) who has done a few in the past. Thanks in advance...
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Std 125 = Bore X Stroke 54 x 54 mm
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Totalshell, just curious,, why do you say C15 "at a pinch". I am fairly new to the pre 65 game (money pit) currently sorting a Bantam but have acquired a C15 engine for a later day.......
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Here's a start.....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-BENELLI-Flying-Egg-250-barn-find-dry-store-appears-complete-engine-turns-/330694337483?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item4cfeeb23cb#ht_1142wt_932
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With evolution and modern technology they can be usable, no use polishing them and looking at them.
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Get a manual, you don't need to split the motor to do the chain. Rotor cover and rotor off, side cover on l/h side of head will expose the chain. You should see what's going on with the chain. This can be done in the frame, if the top end needs to come off the engine needs to come out.
TLR motors are pretty thin on the ground, not the sort of thing you get rebuilt "off the shelf". Buy a good chain...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-TLR200-D-H-83-86-DID-CAM-CHAIN-/190593283030?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c603eb3d6#ht_624wt_698
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Almost def chain and/ or tensioner. Unless someone has run low on oil they are fairly bullet proof. Check cam at same time, check tensioner was working okay and not broken. Depends on your ability they are simple to do, or if you take it to a bike mechanic they should sort it easily as Honda singles are text book really.
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As Woody has already said TY Mono forks probably the best period mod if you can find a decent set, or Marzocchis again if you can find a decent set (there are some on wobblies) there have been some 38mm sold recently for reasonable money but probably overkill on a 175. There was a well sorted TY175 at Telford with TY t/s forks in it, but they can cost to get right..... again if you can find some.
http://www.willbrown.co.uk/adz/
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When mine started to play up, ran okay then not. Originally it was an ignition issue, after changing both coils it was better but not 100%. I spoke to Chris at Classic trial and tried one of the carbs he supplies, 2nd kick it ran like a watch and has done since. We forget these bikes are 30 yrs old now and need fettling.
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Isn't the AJS Stormer a mx bike, ? if so then it will be up the rev range. As Jon said easier starting and smoother running all helps...
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It'll be Falcons for the Bantam. Had a set bolted to the Maj, they sat in the shed for over 2 years, they are now on the Fantic, can't fault them.
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260962151949?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D%2B260962151949%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1#ht_634wt_932
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No bickering then,normal classes etc, everyone just got on with it and had a good ride ??
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Tubed type are a crap compared to tubeless with a tube fitted and seem to work on everything I've ridden over time. Not used anything other than Michelin...
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Spoke to someone today who has made some phospher bronze replacement bushes for the c15, the top hat and bearing all p.b. Anyone else seen this??
I was there for another reason and spotted some c15 cases on the side....
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Years ago it was suggested that an apple a day kept the doctor away.
But since all the doctors are now Muslim, I've found that a bacon
sandwich works best!
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Didn't I read in this or the other similar thread where OTF and Charlie want rules changed to suit their criteria that OTFs club was struggling for riders ?? Whereas down here in the South West no rules have been altered and we can see 100+ riders, mostly T. shocks and Pre 65s. DaveD444 has made a few good observations and points... (i y k w I m)
Meanwhile I'll get back on the fence, in the South West if it aint broke etc etc etc ...
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http://www.guymartinracing.co.uk/
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It was. GV getting a good size crowd as well.
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Roy Bacon is recognised by the DVLA.
http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/Articles/Various/Registering-a-Grey-Import.aspx
PS. Was it you I was speaking to at GVCMCC trial recently ??
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Buy the best you can afford, absolute wrecks are
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Recently had mine lowered, the rule of thumb seems to be down as low as sump guard and back so as in line with leading edge of tyre. Problem is because the rear brake relies on the pin going through the frame it makes the brake too far forward but you are governed by the pin through the frame and unable to do much with it..... simple solution, fit the brake on the other side, I wasn't too sure at first but am getting used to it now, brake and gears on the left. A few I have seen hadn't actually moved their pegs far enough for this reason. Some say move them and some say don't, I am glad I had mine done, just need to remember the back brake.....
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5 k I think, I read it elsewhere, Woody may know...???
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