jrsunt

Like you say, there must be oil circulating in there or it would have expired. I’ve had two experiences and one resulted in a new bottom end due to oil starvation. After damaging the generator cover on a rock the little pencil like raised bit that runs from the filter back into the centre of the crankshaft which is the oil way, I had the cover welded and it blocked the oil way, the con rod was shot in no time. A friend who also had a 4rt thought he had changed his gearbox oil but had drained the engine oil and filled it with gear oil, the bike ran fine pottering around but as soon as you started to push it hard it just wanted to bog down - I presume the gear oil was breaking down under pressure and heat. It is not uncommon for the grease to be on the filter spring and the difference in millilitres between an oil change and an oil and filter change is only 30ml, the filter should have a coating of oil on it but it’s now swimming in it. You may be able to blow down the oil way in the generator cover to see if it frees, I’ve never tried it so it may or may not be open. Hope this helps.

Yeah they’re the same, you’ll struggle to get them from a bearing trader as the size is slightly different from what’s available off the shelf. It’s usually genuine Honda, quite expensive but they last well.

Throttle cable replacement is best with the throttle body off the bike. Since you have a lot of the bike apart, you’re nearly there. Remove the silencer mounting bolt from the air box and the 2x 10mm nuts and 10mm bolt the air box will be almost free. The petrol tank will need lifting too. There is a lot of rubber pipe work running from the cylinder head breather to the air box, all this can be removed. Just blank the hole in the air box and use some of the grey pipe to make a new head breather that runs down the side of the radiator on to the sump guard. A little weight saved and much neater under the petrol tank. Make a note of where the lock nut is on the cable, undo the cable from the throttle body by turning the body. Fit the new cable to the body and tighten the lock nut in the same position as the old one. It takes a little patience in getting the new cable routed under the tank so it does not pull the cable when the steering is turned, particularly to the right

They can get pretty hot, wouldn’t worry about it too much though

Make sure you disconnect the lanyard or kill switch first. Probably unlikely, but test the pick up coil. I’ve seen one of those go off before

When the throttle body isn’t fully closed does that kill the spark? Might be worth an experiment next time I’m tinkering. Yep, that pesky fuel pump wire has had me before. Usually after a few Peroni’s

It’s not something stupid like a faulty kill switch or lanyard? The Honda kill switch is fairly robust but lanyards can have issues. Disconnect it to see if that helps. The play in the throttle cable or idle shouldn’t contribute to the no spark problem.

Did you link the outside wires together on the bank angle sensor? I have come across the earth wire bolt at the bottom of the ht coil coming loose before.

The outer pressure plate has a dot on it which needs to be aligned with a corresponding dot on the hub or basket.

I’m pretty sure that’s the right way. I usually take the stand off completely, saves some weight and there’s usually something around to park the bike on

I have the Geco in black. It’s very nice. In the past I have found the longer guards make servicing the linkage very awkward instead of very easy

As jonnyc says, could be as simple as the idle been too low.They won’t start or even attempt too if too low. I think it’s anti-clockwise to increase (someone will correct me if it’s clockwise)

Make sure the throttle cable isn’t snagged anywhere and properly seated. Fuel pump wire under the tank connected? The little grey pipe that connects to the injector hasn’t come off? Can you get hold of another throttle body to try on your bike?

I can’t remember how much the fan ran, but getting them to run right when they were working hard was a problem. Cutting the fan shroud definitely helped though

When we ran the SY in the early 2000’s they did run very hot. We used to open up the side of the fan shroud (expose more of the fan blades) to help get more heat away from the radiator

Does anyone have a spare 4rt silencer kicking around in the back of the garage? I’ve folded mine in half tonight and could really do with one for the British Championship round on Sunday!! Thanks

They’ll all get further than the EM’s entered 🤣 I loved my TYZ, it was a great bike. Nothing handles like a TYZ in a stream. You’ll have loads of fun on that 👍

Riding it hard across the moors, for example in the Scott or the SSDT, you can empty the tank in about 45 minutes. General pottering around at a club trial will last all day

Where were you draining the oil from? Both drain bolts are on the gear lever side and shouldn’t need the sump guard taking off. Even with a horribly bent sump guard there is usually room to manoeuvre to get the generator cover off for the oil filter. But yes they can be very spring loaded if they are bent and twisted and can require clamping before removing the bolts

Genuine Honda for me all the way. They will last for years.

Although I haven’t had the slave cylinder off a 315 for many years. I think that should be normal. There isn’t anything stopping the gearbox oil entering the push rod hole. It will help it all operate smoothly. If it works correctly, isn’t any sign of leakage and doesn’t use any oil then I would think it’s job done.

The original Honda spacers and bushes are far better than the allballs cak. The spherical shock bearing has got to be the Honda one, it’s not cheap, but there is no comparison. (Don’t even consider the allballs one, there will be play) Top quality HK1512 roller bearings can be bought from local bearing traders at a decent price.

Leave it all closed apart from the reservoir cap. Those pesky bubbles should work their way to the highest point. When you come to have a go at it again, keep the system closed and use lots of tiny movements on the brake pedal to tease the bubbles out. (The vibrations should encourage them) You might lose pressure again but you’ll know that they’re on the move

Leave the rear end up in the air over night if possible. It’s just air trapped in the system some where. Don’t be tempted to push the caliper pistons back in though or the good work will be undone

That’s good news then 👍👍 The rest will come