turbofurball

They really like their endos!

If the glasses are light enough you could just leave them on all the time (?) I found goggles to be a faff to be honest, and have previously worn cycling sunglasses for the entirety of a trial without issues (though obviously that was on a nice sunny day, lol)

Any idea how strong it needs to be? It looks like it's an even cheaper alternative to molasses

Well, I guess moasses has the advantage of being cheap! I think I'll have to swill out the tank and have a proper look to see how bad it is ...

If you're completely new to motorbikes, I'd really recommend starting on a 125. A 2 stroke 125 has enough power, but not too much if you go a bit whiskey throttle, and is a bit lighter so easier to drag out of a hole should you get stuck / fall off. Some 4T bikes are apparently more harsh on the throttle compared to 2T ones of the same size (I don't know this personally, I've never been able to afford a 4T, lol), so if you're used to riding dirt bikes throw what you know about power bands out the window ...

It's VERY different practicing that stuff on a trials bike, much closer to being on a mountain bike than a trail bike!

A quick google tells me the liner is called "flowliner" ... I guess if it's worth doing it's worth doing right! I'd like to get a Majesty tank at some point, but having the original too would be nice in case of doing some distance I'll see what I can scrounge up to wash it out with, perhaps a mix of that acid and some self-tappers would be the ideal combination though - I don't really care what the inside of my tank looks like as long as it's not falling off in chunks, lol Thanks for all the replies though, it's great to see so many options!

Had a fuel leak from my filter on Sunday, figured it wasn't a problem I'd just bypass it ... except that the filter has been doing a lot of filtering, and I could see all the rust going down to the carb after putting a new clear hose on (fortunately didn't try to start the bike, so I don't need to rebuild the carb!) So ... what's the best way to clear out the worst of the rot from a steel tank? I just want it to be ok through this summer really, not worried about a permanent fix. So far the suggestions are lead shot, vinegar, or just swill it out with fuel.

On my mountain bike the wavy disks get rid of mud / water much better than the solid ones I used to have ... I used to have to pull the calipers off at least every week to clean them (crud in them caused vibration that went through the whole frame and was super noisy), after swapping they've only had to come off once since last october.

It's probably not worth going to an OKO unless you're changing the air box and exhaust BTW, the original carbs are very good at what they were designed for

The low ankle Formas will be very different to the Boulders, they have a lot of ankle protection ... and calf protection, which was a big draw for me as I kept bruising my calves when I first started with cheap boots!

Or maybe it'll end up more affordable and thus a better seller ...?

OOOOOOOooooooooooOOOOOOOOoooooooooooh!

My partner bought her old CBR from an elderly gentleman who had reached the point where it was too heavy for him to handle, he was going to get a 125 to trundle about on. Conversely, most of the road bikers with "superbikes" I know are in their 30s or 40s (I'm assuming most people think any faired bike is a "superbike" lol) I'll be on bikes one way or another until I'm either dead or not safe to ride

Until all the trees have been cut down ...

I have (the wrong size of) OKO on the Montesa, once teething issues were sorted (many air leaks in the engine, intake pipe, float level wrong etc) it's been working well and wasn't hard to get running right

Oh yeah, my school always closed for the worst bits of winter because the outside loos always froze solid, lol

Rubbish, I remember in early '80s my Dad being the only thing moving when driving my Mum's Mini van home one night. We got home and were snowed in for two weeks.

My understanding was they flow better, even from low revs ... happy to be proved wrong though!

Oh yeah, the yokes also raised the handlebar mounts 1" and allowed me to use fatbars BTW

I built my TY for proper competition use, despite being a heavy and unskilled rider. It's a joy to use. Going full Majesty with the frame makes sense if you can afford it, or just tidy it up and make the changes to the original frame (which is what I did - heavier, but behaves the same) - moved the shock mounts, removed the oil tank mounts, added gussets, tidied the steering stops, removed the forward peg mounts, lengthened the swingarm. Bolt-on relocated footpegs are fine, but you need to tweak the brake pedal to match otherwise it's unusable. The skinny front forks can totally work, chuck in Magicals springs and then play with oil weight and the spacers to tune it to the rider (mines pretty much spot on with 10w oil and the stock spacers). A set of decent shocks at the back should balance the front out nicely, their specs will vary depending on where you put the shock mounts. I invested in yokes that steepen the fork angle too, this makes it tiring for trail riding (too twitchy at speed) but super for trials. Also, a stainless downpipe and Wes exhaust saved a LOT of weight. Bone stock my TY was 84Kg, now it's around 80 despite adding material to the frame. I have 12/51 gearing IIRC, and do 95% of my riding in 2nd gear. It works well, but I'm thinking of going to a flat slide carb to go with my new big airbox for more low end torque

Fixed it for you

Oh yeah, I do premix 50:1 in my TY ... last time I used an oil pump was on a DT100 I had in the late '80s, and it was crap.

Looks good!

It's just neoprene (wetsuit material), as used on modern dirt bikes ... I have some on my XR, they just wrinkle up when the forks compressed