markparrish

this stuff sounds similar to the SHTT stuff...

you have a lovely "family" there!

I think if it was mine, I'd run it on super unleaded as recommended and just enjoy it - if it is running well and has power as you say, I think you should have some fun with it.

here is mine - hope the link works. Just started so running cold and a bit rattly!

Ah...yes, mine does the "pop pop" thing as well - I think it's quite normal and I quite like the sound (which comes from the exhaust). Maybe you should video it making the noise and post it so others with more knowledge than me can diagnose it?

I have a 2007 model and the previous owner told me to use the super unleaded (97) which I have done - I don't get the effect you describe. Hope you get it sorted.

Hi Travis - I have a 2007 Rev 3 270. I am a beginner and I chose it because there was a nice example nearby, I had heard good things about Rev 3s and I got excited and probably a bit carried away!! Having said that I have not experienced any frights from it. I ride it very steadily on red wobbler's routes and I seem to stay in second for every section. I do use the clutch - probably too much, but when I try not to it doesn't seem to mind and I've found it hard to stall it. Maybe mine is a bit old and tired and therefore not like it was when it was new, but it suits me. Other riders at my club who have 250s and 200s tried it and said it was a bit of a handful but I think they rev their engines more and ride with a different style - when you rev mine it does have a lot of power, but I guess you get used to things. I think I'd choose a smaller engine next time (and I loved the feel of a beta 4 stroke I tried the other day) , but this isn't beyond me to control. I guess you need to try a swap one afternoon and see how you do.

if you connect a wire to the connector in place of the switch and touch it to a good earth point, you will be able to see if the circuit works or not - if it does, you know there is an issue with the kill switch, if not, you may have another fault elsewhere. The Earth connection needs to be good too - make sure it is clean.

automatic tighteners on the straps - great idea!

normally a kill switch is open (when on) and closed (when you press it) this is because it is making a route to Earth when you press it. Unless I'm mistaken it sounds like your' s might not be the cause of the problem.

ooh that's going to need more than cable ties and duct tape! Hope you find a replacement.

Your English is very good Mark! ...and certainly about 100% better thank my Italian! I can't offer any help with your pump seal problem - it may be possible to pick out the seal and replace without disturbing the shaft but you should wait until someone who knows can advise properly. I can suggest that you may mean "bladder discharge" rather than "prostatic" - unless you were really enjoying your ride!! Regards, Mark

Thanks for such a detailed write up - as you have access to the materials (and clearly, the knowhow!) it makes sense to use them! I am sure it would be possible using your information and some similar materials to make a similar accessory in a normal home workshop but hard to achieve that quality without lots of practice - very nice. Thanks again, Mark

that's a really neat job and great idea - well made! Did you mould it over the header to get the correct shape? If so, what did you use as a release agent?

I think it would be great to own a patch of land you could use with a few mates - I'm sure you could make a few sections and then vary them from time to time by introducing a few man made obstacles - of course it wouldn't be a full blown "trials centre" and there might be a bit of rubbish to clear, but that sounds like a "project" or an opportunity as much as a problem. I've dreamt about buying some forest land for a similar purpose but apart from not having the funds, it always seems to have conditions of use applied which mean you cant disturb the owners of the next patch so that rules out trials.

As the bolts don't bottom out (they tighten down in their threaded holes in the basket until the spring retaining washer is held tight and the spring is compressed below applying pressure to the plates) I don't think their length makes any difference. What you need to do is change the amount the springs are compressed by using a "top hat" washer as mentioned above or introducing a spacer washer. The problem with a spacer is that the resulting height of the top of the bolt is increased and may therefore interfere with the inside of the casing. I made some top hat types and used countersunk screws on my 2T - this gave me approx 3mm less compression with no increase in overall height and the clutch seems lighter but doesn't slip (for me anyway!). I think the standard top hats that some models have give about the same change on compression length, so we are not talking about too much height change. You might get away with a simple spacer but there isn't much room in there!

no, definitely not! It's perfect!

it is just held by two screws - no nuts behind. They may be tight/loctited in place, but not a good idea to hit the flywheel so I wouldn't recommend an impact driver...just a good fitting screwdriver.

Just a quick update... I have finally gotten round to refitting the engine after the rebuild - I've been very busy unfortunately so it's been on the bench for ages :-( It started up after a couple of kicks (which was reassuring as I had forgotten where a lot of wires went and had to use a bit of initiative) and sounds so much better now! I can now hear the clutch whirring instead of the grinding noise from the bearings! For the record I improvised some spacers from sockets and large washers and used the crankshaft nuts to gently squeeze the cases together and bearings into position, taking care that there was always plenty of thread engaged when applying the pressure. Once assembled a few taps with a nylon mallet to relieve any stresses and everything seemed to turn very nicely. I also took care when reassembling the clutch to have all the rounded edges facing outwards and I gave the basket edges a smooth/polish before reassembly as I could see where the plates were bedding in and had noticed a bit of grabbing when selecting gear from neutral when cold - that seems better too. I just need to get out for a practice now - having stopped for a while due to broken collarbone and ribs! - hope I haven't lost my nerve! thanks for all the help (on many of these pages), Cheers, Mark

That looks great Sheepy! I'm very jealous of your field - hope you master those tyres.

Hi Rob, I joined http://brdmcc.org/ and met some very helpful and chilled out guys - lots of good advice on tap and regular events/practice (something almost every Sunday). Good luck, Mark (and yes 2 stroke very different to road/MX bikes I'd tried before)

Thanks very much for detailed replies. I'll just take it gently - can't see how I could repack mains when cases are together but that could work with other situations.

Hi, I have just fitted new mains to my 2007 rev3. They are the "new" type with rubber seals both sides (the ones I removed had metal seals). I got them in ok by putting them in the freezer for a while then heating the cases with a hot air gun and gently tapping with a rubber mallet. My question is - will I damage the seals or ruin the internal grease by heating them when I reassemble the case - or is there another way? Thanks, Mark

looks like a dream place to live!

I'm also 52 (and an Essex boy!) and thought I bounced well until last time out - broken collarbone and ribs!! managed to slip on a tight downhill turn and fell on my shoulder - all very slow and safe! Oh well, now I have time to sort my main bearings! Be careful out there! Cheers, Mark