section swept

With the amount of posts put up on TC about liquid cooled bikes boiling over its just as well they use fully synthetic oils. As for oil hanging about in the exhaust system and clogging eveything up, mineral oil does exactly the same but probably more so as usually there is a higher oil content due to the petrol/oil mix ratio. Brand new engines car, bike, lorry all come with fully synthetic oils and its no wonder that the engine components take for ever to bed in or run in. Certainly a good quality mineral oil be it 2t or 4t would be great to run in with then change to fc

You’ll no doubt be looking for a place to ride (bicycles that is) Sherwood Pines is a very popular place, not that flat in Nottinghsmshire??‍♂️??☹️

Maybe the electrics designer was dictating his or her or its explanation at one of those long lunches, except the person making the notes was just as pished so one talking bol@#cks and the other was writing bol@#cks!?‍??‍????????☕️????

I replied to you original post ??

Not as flat as the Fens!

How do you concentrate on tiding when there is so much fantastic scenery to take in???

Pre- development crash bobbins, unscrewing counter clockwise releases a pot of Brylcreem for those photo opportunities. Unscrewing the other side using a sharp tugging action releases a puncture repair kit.....all over the road....note to development team...requires internal cap device.

Alright, I once owned a Transalp.....my partner loved this bike and never wanted to part from it erm I mean him....she named IT Alfie......didnt stop some ars*@#e from stealing it ....I mean him. Any bike that I’ve owned has either been called ‘the bike’ or in the case of having more than one then it was Pan (Pan European) or Mille for the Aprilia Mille or Fazer for the well you get the idea......?

Banging seven bells out of the shock absorbing foam lining to make a good fit is not the way to go about helmet fit.

You can lock the front wheel on most disc braked bikes using one or two fingers be it a supersport or trials bike....eithout monobloc caliper/s. Not looking for a war on words it just seems way OTT ?

With Bultaco brakes you’dneed to stick yer foot inthe front wheel to achieve that sort of stopping ability??

Oi, whose nicked the bottoms of me trousers? AND and .....not a single pair of Nikes or Reabocks to be seen any where. The guy in the Checked suit is Adolfo Minitelli Barrassa....he’s actually wearing the latest, then, riding gear.

Anyone got a photo of Liz Hurley in ‘that’ dress, I’m not into naming my bikes or getting all touchy feely about a lump of metal. Yes they look nice and interesting but thats about as far it goes for me.

Yep just nipping over to Brazil for a quick session before tea! Now lets see, van to airport, customs, transit load, passport, documentation, doctors jabs for jitter bug desease, drain fuel out of bike, wheels out, pack bike into big ski bag, haul on board as hand luggage. Can you kerp tea warm in the oven darling, I might be late back!

Blimey just how fast are these trials bikes going to be? Do they really need a monobloc caliper, rigidity and feel at 150+ mph maybe so but perched on a rock about to drop 10 feet does this require such precise braking effort? Strikes me that the manufacturers are struggling with things to grab new sales, fancy stickers and now racing type calipers. The calipers will be so powerful that stoppies will be a problem and disc attrition will be the order of the day.

Shedworks uses ethanol resistant resin in all their fuel tank latest products.....the resin aint cheap....so the price for each item is good in my opinion. Not sure if the same applies to covers or tank sheds, I expect it does.

With a full face as you are probably aware, these are designed to be more of a snug fit and worn just so. Too many bikers have the helmet tipped forward bringing the face opening too far down onto their forehead, this exposes too much of the lower base of the skull at the rear. Some helmets are a perfect fit on some types of skull shape, others are not. l cannot wear some types of full face as they just do not feel right, Arai, Shoei and HJC are helmet shapes that fit my head shape very well. Bearing in mind that Arai make more than one size of helmet in small, medium and large; that is there are a range of large ie large 1 large 2 etc and the same for the other sizes. You will find this out when you either go to a specialist or visit a service centre at a show or race. You would be well advised to try as many helmet manufacturers as possible, bearing in mind it is just as important to obtain the best fitting snd most comfortable helmet....forget fancy names and flashy stickers...riding all day getting hot and trying to concentrate when your helmet is driving you insane with pressure where you dont want it will not help or improve your riding. Your open face helmet should be a snug and well fitting type with at least two finger widths of forehead showing, but this depe ds upon your particular skull shape. You are more likely to bang your head against the ground, tree, rock or the bike than a road rider so make sure its a helmet you feel secure in. When the helmet is snug on your head and the strap secured you should not be able to move your head inside the helmet very much at all! Same applies to full face types. Having sold all types of helmets it always alarmed me when people chose a too big a helmet because it was easier to put....I ask you? Off they’d go and as soon as they got any speed up the wind would get ubder the helmet and lift up and try to tear their head off. So your trials helmet should fit as well as your road lid. If it feels odd in the fit it probably isnt right for you, or the size is wrong. Hope this helps you make the best choice??

Save money and stay with the original Fanny Barnett frame. Build a nice machine in keeping with its age, trial a few seasons before going the ‘new’ frame route as this tends to deminish the originality. You may even fine the value is more than for a non genuine framed bike.? Your 9E engine will ( if in good order) provide a nice spread of usable torque in 197cc form but you could go to 250cc with little problem. The Villiers engine is a lovely and simple engine that is well supported with parts from Villiers Services and a few other suppliers. The engine will respond to a little careful porting and polishing, electronic ignition will see a little more pep from the willing engine but a well set up CB system can be just as rewarding. Have a good look at the owners web site and on this web site, some of the ‘old bikes’ have been surprisingly well developed. ?Used to own a Fanny Barnet and I wish that I still had it.

Hello Daniel, you’ll get plenty of help and advice on this web site. But do a good search of the Montesa specific area first. ??

A lot will depend upon what bike you intend to try to convert. Locating the motor should not cause many headaches as it is not going to be that big, unless you are using a milk float motor ( I jest). Battery location again should not be a real issue as you will have to use a similar power supply to those already fitted to an electric machine. Your big challenge would possibly be the cost unless you have access to lots of useful spare parts. I doubt there are many TC site members that have attempted to undertake what you propose. In the long run buying an electric bike might be the less costly option, not to dampen your enthusiasm but if you research a bit deeper you are going to frighten yourself with development of the drive train and power modulation etc etc. ?

Glad to be of help?

I was reffering to no lever movement in terms of using to pump the mastercylinder as a bleeding method. Yes of course there should be a small amount of free play between lever and mastercylinder piston as per the manufacturer. Perhaps in hindsight I should have mentioned your point....?

If you are cerain that the coolant has not been diluted by just topping up with water then you should be perfectly ok to expose the bike to the elements by trailer trip. If you wanted to you could lag (wrap) the main body of the bike in a duvet suitable tied down. This woukd also protect your bike from road debri thrown up by your tow vehicle and other road users.??

The chemical properties that are a part of the anti-freeze formulation can dissipate very quickly. The anti- freeze component will last indefinately but its ability to prevent freezing of the coolant, in other words its strength will reduce. The other main additives are the lubricant for the water pump seals, corrosion inhibiters that prevent the anti-freeze or the water from attacking the different materials within the interior of the cooling system. There are some vehicle manufacturer specific anti-freezes that can last as long as 5 years before they deteriorate. When you consider the small capacity of coolant contained in the trials bike cooling system it would be advantageous to change it at least once a year. So by that I would suggest that the coolant is changed at the onset of winter so there is a fresh anti-freeze mix to protect the system.?

Reverse bleeding is the answer, you dont move the lever with this method. You’ll need a syringe, one the size of a regular tube of toothpaste. At least 3feet of clear plastic tubing. Ensure the bleed nipple is clear, snug it down just over finger tight, leave a ring spanner on the nipple, push the end of the clear tube onto the nipple ensure its tight and not going to let air in. Pull out the syringe plunger. Connect the other end of the clear tube to the syringe body. Cable tie or string the syringe body to the handlebar grip. With another syringe ( so you’ll need two the same size) and good quality brake fluid suck up some fluid and carefully inject it into the hanging syringe. Carefully insert the syringe plunger into its body now full of fluid, open the bleed nipple about a quarter turn and gently force the fluid into the slave cylinder nipple. This fluid will come up into the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir, this is tiny so prepare for spillage. Thats it you now keep forcibg fluid through until no bipubbles are seen in the tube and the fluid in the reservoir is clean. Tighten the bleed nipple but not too much! The fluid will change colour as the seal degenerates by shedding tiny microscopic pieces of itself into the fluid. Note brake fluid is Hygroscopic ( yes that is spelt correctly) which means the fuid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere reducing the fluids life and operating potential. In the brake system this moisture will boil before the brake fluid causing steam vapour in the brake line and long lever/pedal travel. This is a main reason for fluid changes on a regular basis. If after all this you still have a poor feel to the clutch it may be a leaking seal allowing air in and fluid out. You also get the situation wherea seal does not leak but still allows air into the system.??Hope this helps you.