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Why would you want it? Modern bikes usually fire right up. I can see why those pig mx 450's would want it.
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Only flat ones I remember was the 2000 -2001 rev3.
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It is a 98 as they changed the rear sub frame that year. Besides the color scheme.
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Yeah, that is why it took me so long to replace mine with Ajp. They do work great if they are working. Mine had always been just a little off. You never knew exactly where the lever was really going to be. And I have spent hours trying to fix them. The AJP looks like crap on my bike in comparison, but my enjoyment last trials was much higher.
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I have put up with this crap since the bike was new. And I have seen dozens of others with the same issues. I also was a dealer for more than a decade and we never (almost) had these problems from AJP.
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/braktec-master-cylinder-problems-why.1090928/
False.
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The pipe will never fit. You are wasting money on the new 4 pot as they are mostly junk. Get a used AJP set off a Rev model. (I just put a 10 year old set on my 2016 as the braktechs are junk.)
Al your stock parts can be made to work. They worked when new If you want to change the motor, then lighten the flywheel.
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I believe the cable free play has an adjustment in the cable. That is where I would start.
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That`s just it, the bigger piston and rotating mass gives a heavy feel. This is modern bikes we are talking about and more lugging power does not get you through a section like it used too. We are talking about hopping the front wheel. Hopping was never the point in the old bikes. And yes, a 125 or 250 does feel lighter when hopping. Of course a 300 has it`s purpose. Some good some bad. But always makes more toque.
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Reggie those are good, but rear pads. The fronts would be red Galfer too. Wet sand on disc brakes is the worst. It does not matter what pad you have they will be gone. I rode an event with 150 riders that it rained just before we rode. Everyone wore out there pads front and rear that day. It was a two day event. Come Sunday morning you could not find any spare pads at all.
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Beta started doing the plastic inserts on the later rev 3. I think `07 was the first year. Most everyone uses these now. I am not a fan either, same with sealed main bearings. But I am not going to pull a good motor apart to remove the shields.
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If you are going to keep riding Gassers, I would put it back to the 300. And keep the new cylinder. If you are changing brands I would use the 300 cylinder as included in the sale just to help sell it faster.
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Get your weight back, you are probably to forward with weight on the bars. Bend your knees more.
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There is nothing wrong with the stock shock. (Ridden very hard it can break.) The Gasser has a more lively feel in comparison. You have to make sure the suspension is set up correctly for your weight before spending money on a different shock.
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When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the pilot jet and clear it? Did you hook up any vents with hose?
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Yeah I was wondering how it could come out and not get the rod. Good Luck.
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I was thinking something exciting happened. Bent the rod at high rpm and put it through the center case while coming up a 20 foot rock face then crashing to your death. Myself I got over the fact that the kick starter sucked on my zero after it impaled me. **** happens.
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Pretty simple, It`s an old bike now no matter how much time is on it. Either put a new bolt back in with sealant or buy a whole new crank. I just hope my 2016 never does it!
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Did you buy the bike new? Does not look like any severe damage. Were the mains worn out?
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6 year old design problem. I doubt it as I have never heard of it. Does this not hold the plastic block?
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If you ride a properly laid out long loop event sixth gear is needed. But it seems most of the events now are set for the spectators and the riders would rather not have to ride a whole mile. Give me a 5 to 20 mile plus loop and I'll smile the whole way. I come to ride!
The Gasser transmission clunks, because of it's unique design. Not because it is a six speed. The throttle is on the right.
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You do not want the bolts to easily come out. This has saved many a rider. Ever try to push a bike that has broken a linkage bolt?
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Expensive pegs are way over rated. Shop the cheaper ones and buy a new rear tire instead.
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I believe it had a special bolt and nut originally. Have you looked at the parts diagram?
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Try searching Jim Snell videos. He had the best info out before Tarrot bought Gas Gas.
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Looks like rust, not any exhaust leak.
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