lineaway

Did you do the work? It sounds like there is too much oil. Do the forks travel as far as they used to?

Check the valve with the float bowl off. 99% of the time it is not the valve on the rev3. Do a search for Billy T mikuni fix. It`s all labor,no parts. http://trialsport.com.au/beta/Manuals/mikuni/

The best way to slow down a 300 is to drop the counter shaft sprocket down one size. And remember the clutch slows it down better than the throttle.

Money in this day and age is not better off in the bank. You wake up in the morning some day with zero balance or the bank just stays closed. (Greece ring a bell) That digital money does not really exist. Buy the bike, have some fun and bury some cash every payday.

The newer Evo turns much better than the Rev did and tighter by far. Staying with Beta, it will all be familiar. They are just a little quicker than the Rev, but still are slower than the likes of Sherco, Gas Gas etc. Just can`t beat new for sure, and yes spend the money for proper springs. PS buy newer than a `13.

Buy the newest by condition you can afford. I loved my blue Rev 3, but a late model Evo would be great.

Did you really clear coat the carb?

Have you still got the head light and stock switches still on the bike? There has been issues in the past with these.

The gear box, if you want performance atf. If you want nice shifting and a slow progressive clutch. Any good 2 stroke oil, Motul, Putoline, etc.

The land of the Fruits and the Nuts. Can`t wait till they succeed from the Union. Unfortunately they are holding a National that I must ride.

Seems like there was a thread about mountain bike springs being the same about two years ago if you do a search on here.

Kick start injuries can be terrible. Always wear boots says the guy that bled for a month. Seems the left start gets blamed more. As previously stated a new condenser can do wonders for proper starting.

First is good for almost all sections, second is not that bad unless you are doing big walls. My son has a 2015 with all the bells and whistles. He mainly rides first. Second when doing splatters. Do you have an aftermarket pipe? I could see going down a tooth if you are running the stock exhaust.

Fork oil is done by level. If done by quantity, you could be doing it a few more times.

How long seals last can be caused by many things. Correct oil level. Bushings in spec. Seals being nipped during installation. Riding muddy events. And just bad luck. There are a lot of seals on the market, but usually the stock seals last the longest.

This time of year I would try a 130 if it was my bike.

It is a 96 or 97. The size you will not know for sure until you measure the bore. It is more likely a 250 because Beta did not make a bigger motor until 98 and a half. They were late getting out the bigger model in 98. I did put the larger cylinder on a 96 myself, so anything is possible.

That is subjective. We can ride for 3-4 hours or more on a tank of fuel. Riding 35 - 40 mph for distance is another matter.

It could be a little lean. What jets are you running? You could give the outside of the carb and intake boot a quick spray to check for any leaks while running. Hard to tell by a few dings. Glad it`s better!

It takes a slow steady kick. You do actually give a little throttle like you are just taking up the slack in the throttle. Helps if the bike is house temp, not outside temp.

Funny, that procedure is probably what caused this mess. When you have a small particle in the pilot circuit the last thing you need is a blast of air.

Soaking in water will shrink the boots. To stretch the boots, insert a gallon freezer bag (or fit to size) with water and place were needed. Place in freezer for 48 ours and thaw before removal.

Nothing like a few spectators to make a rider nervous.

The Kiehin carb can get a clogged pilot circuit that cannot be fixed. Number one quit blowing air, that is usually the thing people have in common when the carb becomes trashed. They all used air. Try contact cleaner , not carb cleaner blown through the pilot circuit. There are two holes it should come out of, just under the slide and just in front of the slide. If these are not flowing then it is clogged internally. You could take the tower off. (The part with security torx screws) but beware the oring inside is unavailable. Another test would be to see if the tower leaks. Which you could submerse it and blow air into the circuit. Trying another carb could help just to make sure where the issue is. Comepletly tearing down the carb, and removing the tower and soaking the carb body in carb cleaner might fix it if you are lucky.

By the way, that too was a normal problem with the Pro motor. I have seen that with a new bike during it`s first day. Nothing really to do with the previous owner, besides his comments during the sale. Have fun!