feetupfun

Thanks PMK that looks great. I'm having a go at guessing which Yamaha the rear hub came from. Being brake and sprocket on the same side I'm thinking late model (post -81) IT175 or YZ125

What you are looking for is any model Alpina or Sherpa T after the time when they changed to using the rear engine mount as the middle support for the swingarm axle.

When my wife wanted to get a modern bike we got a Beta because it was the easiest 2 stroke for her to kickstart.

Machine the brake drum surface smooth and true and fit brake shoe linings that are sized to exactly match the drum diameter. This usually requires relining the shoes with oversize lining material (5mm or 6mm thick) which is a service available through automotive brake repair shops. The linings are then machined or ground back to match the drum. Choose a lining material that provides the most friction. The ones I use are forklift brake lining material and after doing what I have described, are every bit as good as the two-pot Brembo disc front on my TY250Z. I've heard there is also lining material designed to work on brakes that operate under water and that this material works well on trials bikes (that often have wet brakes) but I haven't tried it yet. If you try and do the radius matching without fitting thicker linings the angle of the actuation cam will cause sliding of the edge against the cam follower and this creates extra friction and springiness. There is a cheapskate way to get away without getting thicker linings. By packing out the pivot end of the shoes and then machining the linings back to match the drum. This can even be done with shoes that have a full circle pivot hole like a Bultaco (by rebushing the pivot hole off centre)

Jon you can fit in a much larger weight band than the one in Guy's photo. I'm working on a 360cc TY250 motor at the moment and it has a weight band that is at least twice as heavy as the one in Guy's photo. People tell me that the weight band on this 360cc motor looks like what was fitted to the 320 Majesty motor. The owner of the 360cc TY250 I'm working on told me that the huge weight band flywheel was fitted to his Yamaha factory supported TY250 in 1975 at the same time as the Yamaha fuel injection was fitted, to tame the motor down. The super-heavy flywheel was then fitted to this 1977 TY250 motor when it was converted to 360cc (in 1977). I'll post up a photo of the flywheel soon.

The cheap ones I've seen come with an M8 x 1.25 thread slave cylinder mount/adjuster which I see as an advantage compared with the arrangement on that Magura

I haven't used one myself yet but have seen them in use on some old trials bikes and was thinking of trying one on a KT250 as part of a silly game with a friend who has an unusual clutch system on his KT.

What does this mean?

For me that would spoil the look of the bike

Yes they are made in different lengths

I'm stuck in the 1970s with my welding. Oxy-acetylene and stick. I tell people that the welding technology fits perfectly with the age of the rider and the age of the bike.

They can both be made a lot lighter than standard

A standard TY250 weighs about 11 kg more than a standard TY175 and 10 kg of that difference is the weight difference of the motors

The hubs are exactly the same on 175 and 250. The 250 uses a dished sprocket and the 175 uses a flat sprocket because their front sprockets are at different distances from the centreline.

If there is side loading on the main bearings it will be hard to rotate, thrust washers or no thrust washers on the big end. If the rod was free before you put it in the cases it should still be free because the force required to move the crank wheels on the big end pin is usually way too much for reassembly in the cases to move it. Maybe clarify what you mean by "now I've put it together when I put the 2 crank cases together and nip up the crack is stiff and will harden move without force" so are you meaning it is hard to rotate the crankshaft or hard to move the rod?

It looks like the front half of a 250/320 Godden main frame has been attached to the rear half of a TY250 main frame and some even weirder stuff has been done with that single shock and the rear subframe

Photos please

I've not heard of anyone using that sort of additive to bowser petrol/pump gas but there are plenty of trials people using a long-life fuel called "Aspen" which is available from lawnmower/chainsaw shops. It suits people who have to store their bikes for extended periods. I haven't tried Aspen myself but have read plenty of things on these forums about it. Sounds like it is readily available in countries that have cold winters.

If there were no hiccups along the way like siezed bolts etc about 2 hours. However if the bike is 10 years old with an aluminium frame, you could expect some hiccups

Magical fork springs are available for your OSSA. If you need help finding them you can message me

Steve measure the axle and post it up here. You may find it is the same size as a more readily sourced axle. For example, my OSSA trials bike has a rear axle that is a swingarm pivot bolt from a TY250.

Keith Lynas in the USA sells weld-in inserts. I bought one from Keith and had it fitted locally. Yes the Wayne Weedon method is good too

If there were two trials riders of any ability and one of them was required to wear MX boots, the one wearing trials boots would enjoy themselves more

My memory has it slightly different to st pauls. The "Sammy Miller Parts" business was sold to a husband and wife team who commissioned the manufacture of a small batch of new (close to replica) Highboy frames for the TL125/TLR200 motor. They were all sold including one that I've seen that came to Australia. That business later became Feked. I've just remembered the blokes name who bought SM Parts years ago - Richard Jordan

It's fairly dry here and the original zinc plated spokes on trials bikes made in the 1970s are still serviceable 45 years later but do look dowdy. New zinc plate spokes here look good for about 15 years. If you live in a wet area or at the coast they will start to look dull sooner than that. Stainless steel spokes will look great for hundreds of years but how much longer do you think the bike needs to look nice? I use both types, chosen mainly to provide the original look of the particular bike. Most of my Spanish bikes came with stainless spokes so that is what goes back on and all of my Japanese bikes came with zinc plated spokes and that is what goes back on. One Spanish bike came with plain steel (uncoated) spokes and I used stainless spokes on it. If I lived somewhere that it rains a lot or near the coast I would use stainless steel spokes on every wheel rebuild. Maybe you have access to very cheap zinc plated spokes to get your costing of double for stainless, but what I've paid recently is for genuine TY spokes, one wheel costs about $120 while a set of aftermarket stainless spokes for a TY or a Bultaco is between $120 and $180.