feetupfun

Mk1 and Mk2 AMAL concentric are notorious for wearing the slide needle and needle jet, causing the motor to run rich. The standard jetting works fine when nothing is worn. Yes there are lots of alternate carbies that will fit and work well and not suffer rapid wear. Keihin, Mikuni, Dellorto and OKO are all popular and are reliable and long-lasting. I don't want to recommend a particular brand, just that you should buy one that has been pre-jetted for your bike by someone who knows what they are doing.

I want to try these fork legs in the Godden Majesty (and the emulator forks in the TY175) so I can directly compare the fancy damper rods with the emulators but haven't done it yet. The two bikes are quite different in weight and weight distribution so it wouldn't be a direct comparison unless I swap the forks over

25mm in top tube. Front downtubes cut part-way through, bent then rewelded near front engine mountings. The only change near the headstock is relocating the front tank mounts.

Steering head angle is a personal thing and my favourite head angle for use with a Yamaha twinshock front end is that of a standard TY250 twinshock, which is slightly steeper than a standard TY175. When I extended the frame and the swingarm of that TY175, I made the head angle on the TY175 the same angle as a standard TY250 twinshock. The steering head was moved forwards 25mm and the swingarm was extended 45mm. It ended up with the same wheelbase as a TY250 twinshock. I remember giving a template for the axle plate extensions to someone in the UK soon after I put photos up on the forums at the time, but I don't remember who it was. An Aussie friend was modifying his TY175 at about the same time as I was doing mine and he didn't want to go to the trouble of modifying the main frame cradle, but did want to steepen the steering head angle slightly and lengthen the swingarm. He made his new axle plates with the axle slot lower (his axle slots were 35mm further back and 5mm lower than standard). His bike also handles very nicely.

I've recently fitted those damper rods to some TY250 34mm forks. The forks have the standard springs and are fitted to a lengthened TY175. So far I have only tried Dexron ATF with a 125mm dip. I have ridden dry and wet rocks and banks in practice and at one trial. The compression damping and rebound damping are both stronger and I found the overall effect to be very agreeable. The front end seems less busy overall and is much plusher on big landings. The previous setup on this bike was standard TY250 34mm forks with 10WT fork oil and 125mm dip.

Castrol MTX or anybrand Dexron ATF. Both available from Supercheap The usual Aussie joke oil is Goanna oil, because if you use it, the bike will be able to climb anything

The only weather limitations I have is that sometimes in summer it can be too humid to spray paint. Summer is workshop season here because it is usually too hot to ride except for a brief period in the evening before it gets too dark

Whatever floats your boat - basic rider, museum piece, dunger, tricked-up competition special, time capsule. One person's dream bike can be another person's nightmare For me the whole thing is a passion and cost/return in dollar terms is totally irrelevant. I just do whatever I feel like doing and get huge enjoyment from the process

Hi Bevelferal I'm another Queenslander and if your Techno still has standard springs it should be perfect for your weight.

photos please

Rider weight? Rider size? Motor standard? Rider skill level?

If the rest of the gearbox is working properly, removing the detent plunger will not cause or allow it to go in more that one gear at a time. Taking the detent plunger out will mean that you might have trouble getting the shift mechanism to work normally. There are many other possibilities for why the crankshaft won't rotate though. A good way to work out why the crankshaft won't rotate is to take the engine covers off. That way you will know if it is one of the many causes external to the gearbox that is causing the problem

I expect you will have an easy decision when you find out the price for a NOS one-into-two cable

Just had another thought. Check for "poling". This is where one or more magnets touches the stator laminations. Can be caused by play in the main bearings, poor alignment of flywheel on the taper, loose stator screws, loose magnet/s

I'm not familiar with a techno flywheel so can anyone say if it is feasible that the cup of the flywheel has moved relative to the hub of the flywheel? Another thought was is it possible that the magnet that triggers the spark may have lost its magnetism somehow and so the spark is being triggered by the wrong magnet?

photo please

Yes, but you might need to lean the bike over to the right to reinstall the camshaft if the pushrod has slid to the left while the camshaft was out

I'm pretty sure that inside that hollow "bolt" is a spring loaded plunger that holds the shift drum in the right spot for each of the gears. There is a cam on the shift drum with multiple indentations, one for each gear. Normally there's a copper washer under the head of that "bolt" to seal it. If you want to pull it out to fix the leak, you can pull it out and put it back in without causing any problems with the shifting mechanism. The plunger and spring will be able to fall out of the "bolt" though. May need to take the swingarm out to give clearance to get it out or maybe not. I have only had that "bolt" out with the engine out of the bike.

The black circle is a bung fitted to seal a manufacturing hole in the gearbox casing. The hole is there to allow the casing to be machined to provide the left end bearing for the shift drum. There are no rolling element bearings on either end of the shift drum. Provided the crack doesn't allow misalignment of the shift drum, it should be fine without a weld repair

How do you avoid banging your shin on the lever while riding sections?

Looks like you're getting more of that wild weather potto

Have replied on Trials Australia

These carbies go very well too. I recently fitted this OKO to my A model when the original TK carby started to suffer from needle and needle jet wear

@zuma that's a fabulous looking airbox

Nice work. I'm also impressed that you did it all with the wheel assembled