copemech

MORE BOTTOM END? Not too many ask for more grunt from a decent 250 unless they are upper class riders! One place to start may be your jetting! If this is a standard dellorto in stock form, it may be quite lean in the pilot jet. My bike came accross the pond with a #30 pilot, and while it ran smooth, it would not lift the front wheel off idle. Change from a #30-33 range to a #35-36 range would seem normal from what I hear based upon current UK fuels as I understand.

Unless you have a specific problem with pinking and such there in no need for it, as they are designed for 98 RON or so and the V-power and such should provide that. Octane in itself does not represent POWER, yet rather a resistance to ignite!(prematurely) Some brief testing was indeed done on a stock 125 Sherco that indicated more power on proper pump fuel than the race gas. So go figure?

Big bore 4T's can allways be a bit iffy it seems, Bobtlr has indeed raved on the little OKO, and they are inexpensive to boot. I think it was in '08 they refined the Kiehin further with some different internals, and the one I rode seemed good. As long as the decompressor is working, all it took was a steadt methodical prod, possibly easier than a 2.9. Assuring good plug and spark are allways key, and usually the rituals will begin with a couple slow prods with choke engaged just tu get things juiced up, then a real prod with NO throttle, they do not seem to like things when folk inadvertantly crack the throttle tube out of habit as is messes the mix up and things go sour. Finding the ritual specific to a bike can save a lot of effort it seems.

There is a mate with a heavy spring for sale in the classified section listed for an '11 bike. You might ck w Chris to see if it fits the new shocker on the '12.

That is like watching 20 min. in the middle of a movie! But better than nothing!

Not sure just how much they are able to do it there, but in our beginner class, we have an advanced rider take the group out for a somewhat guided tour. The class may only do one loop or two, depending, and the class is scored accordingly and separate. Quality time and learning is important. After getting to know a few folk, you may find a riding buddy! This is allways helpful as well. If your club does any training days, go! Fun rides and training gets you out to ride and learn the finer points!

Scorps is a good learner, 250 Sherco is better through te years, new ones are soo smooth! Would not discount a 250 Beater, or a 200!

Same basic frame and all, 125 will get you around and they are gentile to ride, up to a point. A 125 has no real torque down low. You gotta rev them to make them go. Below (X)RPM they will not pull you, requires better riding teknique in the sections, and more difficult to master, therefore I (having owned one) can only say that I prefer a larger bike. 250 is nice, newer the better as they seem softer than say '05 models.

You just gotta copy the link and paste it directly to the page on this new thing. It does the rest.

Clip from the January trials I found. Just for gigs! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BytWR_O6OxA

Kinda what happens is if they get a little low, with some seepage over time, then you got basically some air then oil. Once you jounce it a bit, they mix, and even though you have bubbles in the oil, you still have damping. Could sound "squishy" as the bubbles travel through the valve? Still works, yet not ideal. So I suspect the thing may indeed have a bit of seepage over time. Most modern shocks doo have nitrogen pressurization, and I doubt this one any different. Just how it is presurized I am not sure. There may be a port under that screw, yet I never take chances with this stuff unless I know what I am doing. There was a time long ago when I did this type work, yet no longer.

There is not a lot, yet should be enough to get your static in range as the spring settles in. Now I will tell you that(since you have read all this) tha jacked up rear becomes far less important unless you are a bad ass stop and hop rider, at least in most sections, because of stability, as Chris mentioned. In really tight technical sections, this could change, because it does tighten your steering, however a good rider may just move the rear a tad to compensate. Finding your comfort zone?, well, once again, I can put a good rider on the bike and he just compensates on his own, and still kicks your ass! No difference.

The '06 did suffer from a stress point inducing cracking in the upper front above the radiator. Many of these frames were replaced under warranty. If the bike has been well ridden and it is not cracked, it is probally fine. Condition and maintenance of rear suspension linkage and bearings is allways a potential issue. The stock rear shocker was poor and leaked the oil out. Junk it if it is done! Otherwise, be your own judge of the general condition, not a bad bike when sorted.

Neo?

Oh my! I think you will need to contact Adrain Lewis(Lewisport USA) as he is the importer and I think he has someone to do them. They are likely pressurized well, so be careful with it. http://www.lewisportusa.com/parts_wheels_springs.htm

Nor can I fathom why one would listen to the opinion of a BTC top level rider, all personal choice you see!

No idea on that carb really, however that passage may lead to a channel between the two if not straight through if you are getting airflow. I sen a new one on ebay for about 20 quid!

Another rumour it the Fofmula are adding about $300 to the cost of production. Cost passed to buyers!

Not writing off anything here. Point being, if you do not have a spring(which he does not) lesser of two evils is to just take it up a bit closer to zero static and do not overwind it based upon your weight! One may have springs custom made, all good at a cost! Just how much that will improve the average Joe is another thing.

In the words of Ray Peters when used to hold the rear brake when hopping the bike, "Other peeps ankles are trainable, yours is too!" I love the quote, yet still have a hard time at it!

None of this makes any real difference unless you are possibly wanting to install a heavier spring for your weight if you are indeed heavy! You need static sag in the system(weight of bike on wheels) of between around 10-30mm so things kinda float a bit. You measured 25mm, so you could take that up a bit. Yet it is not good to overwind the spring with preload just to achieve race sag(weight with rider). I know plenty of good riders on stock springs, and they are not 10.5 stone spanish youth!

You will enjoy that bike, have fun!

One might pick up a 125 for a right price and put a S3 225 kit and flyweight on it! They say they are sweet!

Both! And I do not recco 300's for new riders myself. You want something Super Smooth, tell them to build you a 250SS with the flywheel weight installed! Then you can remove it if you like, later!

On edit, I may have you a proper kit if you need it. Let me know!