copemech

Might save money to the rider over time as compared to those bearing. I was going to try the bronze if I needed them, anyway. Suppose this just confirms it. Still think they will require lots of good grease an overpacking to keep water out, but should not suffer from the corrosion problems of the others. Wonder if they did the brake pedal as well? I did that one , what, over two years ago? I is still fine.

Axed the word game! Ok, new game, add to the sentance! Three word limit! First phrase "In the beginning"

There you go! I was about to ask for professional Beta help here mysel, as seems the orig Billy T post has gone!

I thin you are on to this Ormplus fellow! Total Twit! I would never allow a hole larger then 5.5 mm drilled into my cover mysel! Notice I did refrain from the wd40 ref in MY post, total crap, only use it for more important stuff like chains, as I have much more high tech stuff like Corrosion-X to treat electrics and prevent corrosion. Silecon is for sex lube, not corrosion prevention. Super hot trick is covering the (no larger than) 5.5 hole so water cannot get in! To achieve this, you gotta use Gorilla tape! Another high tech material. Just make a little flap of it that you can peel off to let any dribble out to pee on your feet when neccessary,then seal it back up. When you get home, leave it open to vent and drain any codge(new word). And I've only been working on bikes and other crap for about 40 something years. I have underwear older than Steve(out the door) Saunders. Amatures, the lot! Oh, BTW recall first rule of plumbing!

This topic seems to have a bit of historic value accross the brands as well. It works, although my personal experience has been tolimit the hole size to about 3-4mm, which may be debateable, yet you could alwayy enlarge it later if needed. All point being, you need to let it vent and drain, as well as clean on occasion. Water ingress is nor really an issue in itself, go submurse an upside down pop bottle if you like, just to see what comes in!

Mine have often been a pig to start at 5c and below. Laying the bike over to spill a bit of fuel into the motor was at times the only way. Several things come to mind here. If you are getting the alcohol laced fuel as most of us, water will settle out in the cold temps. You might try carefully removing the carb, then removing the bown over a clear glass bowl or something similar to try and catch all that comes out. You may be surprised what you collect. The current recco for cold climate is enlarging the choke jet to .70-.80. There may be some advantage in shutting off fuel and running bowl down or dry before putting the bike away. This way, you get fresher fuel in the bowl upon the next startup after sitting. Empty your fuel can into the glass bowl as well to insure it is cleaned out well. Fresher the fuel the better! Wil not hurt to check, clean and securely tighten the earth lug on the cdi as Chewy said. Should be on the headstay bracket on that year. Rocking the bike in gear to free up the clutch and all prior to kicking gets a bit of vacume going and fuel circulating which can help as well. As I have been running the Oko carb, it does seem a bit better, yet mine still died twice last week at about 5c range.

Hum, I sort of figured it would be worth a trip to an airshow weekend at Duxford, with the museum and all. Gotta love them warbirds!

What are the temps, snow on the ground there?

Seems to me this type thing has become common ,specially with the alcohol induced fuels from the pump. I think a regular draining of the bowl, along with the checking of your fuel can is well advised. I will pour off the last bit of my fuel can into a two liter clear pop bottle on occasion, just to see what has settled before inducing it into the bike.

We seldome see it, so it is an event! How can I get my swim in this crap! And I just got allthe leaves out the pool! Just noticed the deer grazing near the right corner of the fence, there are a few back there in a high fence area.(not mine)

Not me! Duh! Really nice video, I never see a price tag, either! Funny thing, few months back I seen one of those sitting inside the glass window of a local sandwich shop,all original and low mileage, maybe 2-4k or so,few drips of oil on the floor under it, so consider it like new! Real Beauty! Had a sale sign on it, with a price of $20K!!!!! from the shop owner. Too rich for me! Bike was probably less than 3k new! Yet at the same time, they seemed pure sex for their day, although I am not quite sure just how reliable they really were. 1969 was also the start of the Honda CB750, which became an icon!

This sounds Extremely Normal to me! Goo ride!

Probably on track here. Only other thing I might suggest is while you are waiting, you might nip up some type flywheel holder or strap wrench so that you can properly torque up the flywheel nut after repair. These things are supposed to go up to 73 lb/ft or 100 nm as I recall, and you don't want them too loose, or risk damaging the crank by over tightening. Once pproperly set, I scribe index marks on the shaft and nut using tha small dremel disc, then once you have the ref marks, you can re-set things if need in the future, quickand easy using a rattlegun. Cheers,

Supporter photos seemed darned excellent as well! Some really good ones in there!

That COULD be a problem you need to work on,as they are are a piece of work at times. Experience may count here, although not sure just how many if any you might need to change due to wear, the repair process, and or replacement if needed can be a real bitch, and very costly for the novice.

Next time you go to Florida, go in first of April, as Sun-N-Fun week is on in Lakeland. Maybe only 1/2 the event of Oshkosh, with only 5000 planes there, but still an airshow every day of the weel ant lots of warbirds and everything else. Think I have been about 5 times, including 3 consecutive years of taking the small Cessna from Texas to FL(about 1200 miles each way as I recall) for the week, which rivals making it to the Scottish, yet without the riding, just the beer! I am due to go back!

Because THEY said so!!!!!!!!!! The springs must support "sprung weight"(bike and rider) and keep things in a reasonable range of operation, otherwise it would be constantly hitting the limits of topping or bottoming out and beat themselves(and rider)to death. First park of equasion is weight of bike, next, weight of rider, so the initial drop is about an inch, add rider, then another inch or more, so somewhere at 1/3-1/2 travel depending upon weight of rider. Keeps things absorbing little bumps, sort of floating over them and maintaining good contact with the ground and good control and traction. In this case, the initial subscriber has not figured out how to "wheelie" easily by using the springs to his advantage and initially compressing them, then using the return to lift the front almost effortlessly, even without throttle!

Please refer to pinned topics at the top of this forum for a guide.

Possibly he has been riding it on the road too much. Tire does not look as though it has seen a rock. Cannot begin to recall just how many times I have told folk that these are darned good bikes. It is all relative to the pocketbook, I really like Orange now as well, someday!

Seems I recall it being a 3.5 or 4mm rod. I suppose a drill bit world work. The picture in the Waynes help thing is worth a thousand words. You can look at the gap in the end of the top screw slot to judge where to put it without all the scientific measure(which for matters of simplification I think the actual finding of TDC here may be a bit lacking) All in all +- 1mm makes little difference unless you are advancing it, which becomes a bit more critical.

For those of you who might enjoy a bit of history, nostalgia, and modern technology that boggles the mind! For the rest of us, there is nothing like a good show every day of the week, lawn chair and beer! My link

Bit of bling is good for the soul! Trashing it is NOT! Thus, I have no TI header pipe! Too thin!

Oh good!!! Did you manage to get the nut torqued up well?

I think that a good "feel" and progression is as important as anything in trials. It seems to me the factory Galfer pads are as good as it gets when dry, a bit lacking when wet. The Braking pads seem to hold up well when wet, yed a bit slower when dry.

Need to try out the Beta threads with a good description of the problem, they should be helpful, cheers!