copemech

If you look at the pic in the linky, there are terminals on the coil pack for a red, white, green and black wire as I recall. The yellow is earth from the coil, then you have the secondary coil wire to the sparkie. These may be epoxied in on the factory unit. I no longer have an older one around to look at first hand. Doubt you have anything programmable.

Chris, that Scorpa will give you that feeling for sure! Find you a nice 2.5 Sherco! Like Ishy said.

I did this, but you must try it yourself! Put about down the street or something, while clicking through the gears all the way to 5th. Then slow down and turn around just to see how low it will chug down! Do not recommend this to Ralph untill you have done it! And be sure your gear is on!

If you have that 3mm spacer in the valve stem where it goes throu the rubber, you can take it out so that the inner washer around the stem seals tighter. Just do not overtighten the outer nut! Once again, the fit of the rubber against the outside of the groove is the most critical. I use a dab of DC111 silecon paste on the nipples to keep water out and help prevent corrosion. And a a professional tire lube on the band and tire, although a heavy mix of dish soap will work. Slick as snot! The band will just fall into the groove, almost, ck every cm of it for a perfect seal!

A 50:1 mix is more commonly used in older air cooled motors. With the watercooled motors, the 80:1 ratio with high quality oil seems the standard now, although some may argue to a point. Fact is, many who do not ride really hard have successfully run at 100:1 for years now without problem. If you have ridden your bike for a length of time at that ratio. the muff is bound to be full of oil. They can clog up badly and the sherco muff is not easily cleaned(another story). What I normally recommend is a good hard run down the road a bit through the gears, like a drag race. Done about a half dozen times will get the exhaust REALLY warmed up, and chances are it may light off some of the oil and start smoking like a freight train, just billowing, that is the excess buildup! Let it cool down and try it again! When the excess ig is gone, it will stop that! After that, only a periodic hard run or a tough trial with some good long uphills will keep things from excess buildup. And if you are a young lad just putting about a lot and never really revving the crap out of it, you may well consider the higher ratios even. Put this way, if the pros can run 80:1 you should be just fine. Bar end plugs help keep your bike from blowing up when you fall on the throttle side!

Having Clark just behind me on the loop, offering to administer CPR, usually keeps me going! I forgot to mention the NZI trivent! I cannot ride without it now, unless it is with the bicycle helmet used for practice! I have become accustomed to the mid sized camelback. You do not have to fill them completely. One L. water and one L. ice even, as the first loop is always the slowest and the worst, a refreshing cold splash out of it to refresh the towel can be good. The midsize will stow a few basic tools as well. You can always shed it in a section if needed, however there have been a couple of occasions when it provided much appreciated spinal protection when I came off. Now if I could only find a watercushion for my butt!

I will take a mid sized towel, wet it down with water and tuck it over the neck and down the front of the jersey. Can be used to wipe the face between sections. Re wet between loops, or use the camelback. About 72oz of cold water in the camelback will usually get me around between pit stops! Last year it was about 108f here when we started our mid summer event late in the day to continue till dark!

Run the bike on 80:1 full synthetic, or at the very least Yamaha 2R semi-synthetic, easy to find usually. Then go out and blow the smoke out og it to get all that oil out of the exhaust!

I think that bumper CAN move, not hurting anything. There should be LITTLE oil on the shaft, otherwise the seal IS leaking a bit. As nothing lasts forever, ride it out untill it makes squishy sounds, then it is out of oil and you are out some jack! Contact your Bets dealer for the latest exchange program rates! Anyone know if the Ohlins for Beta romour is true?

Only seven? There is a learning curve to these things. Next problem you may encounter is a corroded valve stem whwn you disassemble to clean things. If it is screwed, order a new rim band with incorporated valve from the Tryalshop. Hopefully your rim cleans up ok and is not too badly corroded to seal in the lip areas on both sides of the groove!

I still have some of my "O#2" stickies for you number plates!

Magnesium is highly succeptable to corrosion- end of story! Good corrosion inhibitors in coolant are important in any coolant, as that is what wears out, not the anti-freeze or cooling ability. If a cooling system is well balanced, additional cooling is not needed and can actually be considered as detrimental in some cases ov overefficiency leading to low CHT's and such. Seems all motors have a most efficient thermodynamic range. Try riding your bike off Cold! They pretty much suck! An extreme example of a simple principle! Some of my recent experience indicates that certain metals may prematurely induce a significant PH swing in the coolant which will prematurely start an electrosis process that will quickly damage soft alloys such as ali and mag. This phenom is not totally explained, yet does exhist. The mag is the sacrificial alloy in this scinerio. My personal theory is to pay special attention to any mag components by changing out coolant at least every 90 days. Do not totally trust the corrosion inhibitors in common fluids. I heard Beta went back to ali castings? Big Al Bechard has a lot of experience with PM and coolants. Wonder if he might be able to expound on this topic? Electrolosis is a wierd animal, the thermodynamics is a simple BTU in vs BTU out! Not to be confused.

No, it is that new box of twigs they are sending you and Clark for Chrimbo, tightwads!

You notice they are from Chicago, stick with the pizza buddy!

I had to start buying beer in cans because of that sort of practice!

Keep your camera handy! The first big flame-out should be interisting!

The rim sealing band over the spokes probably got dislodged or damaged. It MUST sit in the groove perfectly and seal along the side grooves. It must have no holes! Take it back apart and have a look! These things are critical. And yes, it does!

Sounds as though you ave just about covered everything else! Seems as though I resall some place online selling scooter parts for vespa's or something selling those ducati coils cheap, a google search perhaps? try linky

I think RYP has a big bore 280 kit with a wiseco piston~

If your bearings are gone the bushings are too, most likely, and you will only get them from Sherco unles you make them yourself. I suggest you support your dealer or importer, doubt you will save much, other than a relationship!

Not to get somewhat back on topic or anything, but several years ago when I considered doung some vintage mono or twinshock riding, I was soo put off by the AHRMA limitations that I just forgot about it, just things like, well you could run a 248 mont but not a 249 or something stupid like that. I cannot recall specifics, just too many rules and limitations unless you are running something really old and near pre 65. I would ventuer a guess as why ITSA has become more popular! Would not surprise me to see them take in some early monos as welcome. Just my thoughts!

Sorry I cannot help you Beta specific, but everything must come off including swingarm pivot if form follows fashion! Just nuts and bolts really, certanly makes you more familiar with your steed! Keep components in groups or together as you remove them. Just makes life easier in the long run to organize if you know what I mean.

It is a Suzy motor as I recall. They can build them wherever they want I suppose. Seems lots of things from Japan are not built there anymore! Looking at a Serow myself, forget the Italian garb! I had an old (real) Alp, good for what it was, but a different breed with the trials motor!

Well, you see there was this announcement cramit, well Kramit, well, never mind!

NNuff said, yet the small ones cost less!