copemech

Noel was staying over untill all this rain! Yikes! I hope they made it through and are not floating down towards the Mississippi! We got slammed today with 6-8 inches of rain!

Ish, once again, nothing against you personally, but I think you are either totally full of ****, or know something that you are not telling. And I ask again, where does that leave YOU?

A couple of thoughts as you need to get the "right stuff"! Since you are up there, call Mike Komer at the Tryals Shop. He should have what you need. As you are a newbie on a 2.9 as I recall, a gear change to a 44 rear(off the 125) might just even your links as I recall. As a gear change like this will have the effect of SLOWING the response a bit in a given gear(if you POP the clutch by mistake, the bike does not travel as far out from under you) and makes 4th and 5th more usable on the loop, you may like it. I ran my '03 that way, ran 2nd in most sections, 1st for tight stuff.

WoW! What a point spread! Glad to see we got a point out of Patrick! And look at them young guns jumping in the frey, Go Jo!

And all said, the Ish has been very quiet abiut all that he started! All shat being said, I shall tell a bit of a funny in MY simple mind. At a recent trial and with a totally NOOB rider who had picked up a later model Pro. He ahd had his fair abuse in the sections that morning but had a good time and placed well as he had much previous dirt experience. He said afterward, I punched a hole in the mag cover, and sure enough as I looked, the Pro had a good gash in the plastic cover. Ah no prob, lets go see, as I took him over to one ov the largest Gasser dealers in the NATION! These things are CHEAP! Hey, you got one ov these covers for my NOOB friend with the PRO? NO! I have never sold one, was the response! Blew me away!

Do we have a smiley for "Beer Up Nostrils" ?

Jon's explanation on what I just said! "Yes they should. To put it simply, a digital ignition really just changes "when" it sparks." Hey Jon, did you notice that I am running, reliably with 10% more gap and the NON resistor plug BP5EVX platnum that you cannot get at O'Rieley's! Oh ****, I am going to catch hell later!

Howard, I gather from your question that you know the difference! AllI can say is that I know heavyweight(expert) riders that have run the stock springs for years now and they do quite well, not that they would not be better off with a spring proper for their weight. But I also believe that the stock spring will provide better grip if not run up to an excessive preload in an effort to achieve a (race sag) or loaded number. I simply noticed that even at 185lbs, if I started jacking up the spring with too much preload I lost precious traction at times if it topped itself out when unloaded, as weight wise, I am sort of on that edge. I think this effect would only worsten if trying to achieve "race sag" for a rider of larger size. This is also where proper unloading tecnique comes into play, which is another topic. And also where most the experts manage to clear the skidplate when I cannot at times, yea simple, right!

Iselph, if your bearings were not totally rusted and the bushings were not severely corroded or pitted from water entry you are probably still in good shape. It seema the dogbone bearings take the worst of it. Obviously these things take some wear, but water is the main culprit and why you want to overpack things so the bushings and washers provide a difficult path for water entry into the bearings themselves as the seals will not keep out everything. As things have to move, there will always be some slack as translated through the length of the swingarm. If I had to put this in numbers, 1/8 inch freeplay movement at the end of the swingarm is probably still OK, 1/4 inch is probably excessive! AND these things will not tighten up untill properly tightened, in particular the lower shock bolt and the bolt that goes through the delta link (top one )to the swingarm! Hope that helps,

Personally, I would stick with the PJ1 or other proper gear oil unles for some reason you need the quicker bite of ATF, and even then not run the cheap stuff. High quality fully synthetic ATF is available. It is not inexpensive.

Yes they should. To put it simply, a digital ignition really just changes "when" it sparks.

i THINK THIS A COUNTDOWN TO THE ENDTIMES! If you have a green light, Andy himself as pre approved you to Lucifers gate! (whew!) Plan on eternal trainspotting! Did you see anything today, No, tomorrow the same! Myself, I just want to get out with a three, like normal!

Jon, while standing there last week holding my one and only fork spring in my hand while changing fork oil after a year on the latest bike,I thought about you. Polishing the springs to reduce drag and all that stuff. I looked at the spring, looked at the old oil full of metal, and said to myself, well I guess I don't need to call Jon to find out how to polish these things, DUNK, into the fresh oil it went! I am funny in a way, as Yes I do tinker as time permits, and yes everything must work properly for the most part ur it gets under my skin. But I have found that the outcome of a given trial for me muchly depends upon which balls I wear that day! Big balls, little balls, brass balls, titanium balls, ali balls, tungston balls and the list goes on----! I usually start out on the lightweight ali balls, the green ones, and by the end of the day I may either have the big brass ones on, or could be the little blue ones? BTW, you need to make a point to ride Steves 250 pro at the Sooner Cup. Sweet!

I figured all this out and did the math. It costs me just as much to get a new bike every year as I spend on beer. As I cannot afford too many bad habits, I wonder if I could become a BEER dealer in an effort to get a deal for myself and all my friends? Maybe this would get a few off that Budwiser too, just like Gassers?

Wayne is correct, I call this method 3, Method 2 is to put it in 3rd or 4th and pull in clutch , then rock it back and furth till clutches break loose! I have had the "re stick" so always refer back to RULE#1(softest and cheapest) just to be sure! Always be sure you are at IDLE when placing in gear, and if you EVER get in a tight spot, just lay it over and get off the bike! I say all this as I have witnessed bad situations develop as a result! Go in the RIGHT direction and be safe! This applies to ALL bikes!

Now you have done it! WHY?

There must also be a rectifier in circuit with the fan as it is a DC motor. I cannot recall the specifics, but I think you need to find the other one as well!

Go Stars!

That's just WRONG!

"I want tell you about the bike you could ride here at the end of the month " And if I just had my Big Bore kit! You would really like it!

I have done that, more times than I like to tell I am not inclined to do much pushing to get home, so anything that washes thorugh the air filter will likely either find its own way out or I will be doing some rebuilding, later on! Trailside method is all I have ever used, although I have pulled the tops and flushed with Kero later!

Clean the carby to inspect for water in the bowl!

I agree and have been skiddish about trying thak Dana lube for reasons stated, now that x-fer case fluid, pre mixed for smooth progression? Sounds of interist and I have lots of it! One would presume that it may be more better than standard motor oil? Being no Gasser expert, all I can say is that since they came out with the lighter spring plate a couple years back, I have ventured out and taken a few spins on various bikes, 125, 200 250 and 280. Seems like every one is different and much depends upon how they were set up at the factory. Some great, some stiff? I do not understand them totally, just seems some need a bit of TLC and fluid is not going to do it! I hope Stoodly has all that figured out?

Almost forgot, put allen wrench on front bar clamp bolts and bring crossbar back to toutch it! Gives you a good positioning to start!

Ok, let me see here, Not sure where you are located, but I would presume in the states, since you list a Harley and don't spell funny! Mix oil, if nothing else, go to the Yamaha shop and get a small bottle of Yamalube 2R, made by Torco, it is a simi-synth but is fine. I prefer the Maxima K2 that RYP sells. The Maxima MTF is good too, but if you are going to run ATF, at least go to the auto parts store and get the Mobile 1 synthetic or see if they have Valvoline 10-30or 10-40 synthetic motor oil for better clutch progression. Or go to the Chevy house and see if they have the Allison C-4 tranny juice. I have never had any problem with these on the Sureflex clutch, but ATF might be a bit grabbier. Don't bet on anything preventing a sticky clutch after sitting. Just be sure you are pointed at something CHEAP and SOFT when you first put them into gear! Chains, seems like I recall about 101 with the half link which you will need for that model. You will need to cut down a 103 link chain and figure accordingly I think. Someone may know something otherwise? The rear mudguard should have a foil backed thermal shield near the muff. If it is not there, hard running and high temps will definately melt the plastic! ALWAYS remove air filter and inspect airbox lower part for water entry after washing bike! Or it is just about as easy to simply remove mudguard and tank and filter, plug airbox and exhaust, wash the helofit and reassemble! Disassemble and thoroughly wash the airbox and clean the carby including the filter screen on the banjo inlet initally! This will give you a good start! Bite the bullet and go ahead and disassemble , totally clean and inspect and overpack the rear linkage with Maxima waterproof grease or = ! There should be next to NO free play in the linkage when feeling the swingarm with the bike on a support! Clean and inspect the steering head bearings, pack wheel bearings and lube axles and ck rear brake pedal pivot bearing while you are at it! All bolts get a bit of anti sieze! Be sure you do not get trapped water and corrosion in the plastic mag cover and treat with WD-40 or something! Drill a 1/16 drain hole in the bottom of the cover if you are gathering water. The stock spring will work, but I would take the static sag to near zero at your weight. 0-10mm. If the shock is not leaking, run it! Unless you just want to spend a lot! If the muff is too raspy sounding, replace it! Learn to ride with one finger covering front brake and clutch. Shortie(two finger) levers are more progressive due to a longer pivot point, mid length(3 finger levers) are a bit quicker from the sweet spot on the clutch side! Only use 1 finger on either! Hope that helps, I gotta have a beer! Cheers,