copemech

Paul, you have to keep things relative dude! Even a factory setting is usually a tradeoff! Fact is you can move the stator a mm or two in either direction and not tell any difference from the base setting. Do you want maximum performance, or smoother operation less prone to kickback and stalling? And this has nothing to do with ease of starting or better low end response and durability of a high end plug. Within the adjustable range of the ignition timing, you must set it for what you desire and how you want it to perform, and yes, there are limits. A look back to even the factory specs of that time they were all over the board from 2.7 to 3.8 mm BTDC. Any idea what this translates into DEGREES of angle? You can find TDC then use a strobe to measure it, but you would have to use the strobe only to transfer the particular setting to a different bike due to variences in the individual flywheels and their trigger points. And yes, my TDC indicator is accurate to within .01 mm, not that means anything with the plug hole at an angle! Go figure!

If it runs from cold start, the thermo switch is likely the culprit.

Well, if it simply will not fit I don't know what to tell you unless you disassemble the fan. That year should have the factory alignment mark on the stator plate that alighns with the top casting web. That is all I normally use as a reference point and adjust from there to taste. Putting a specific number in mmBTDC seems less important than how it actually performs in my mind.

I have heard of this happening but never seen one. Guaging with the fingers, the frame material seems fairly thick in that area. I think if it were mine I would grind down the factory weld , place some insulating material behind to shield the radiator and burn in a nice wide bead over the crack and overlapping the factory weld using a good high output MIG unit. Then run a smaller "T" bead out from the center about 20mm each way to disburse the stress point. Krylon semi-flat black seems to work ok for touch up. You did need to remove the clamps and re-pack those steering head bearings did'nt you? Hope that helps,

What year is it?

I found a nice piccie of Pat from last week and thought I would put it up. Does no justice to the height of the rock he is hopping off! As he is about to depart for the world trials scene as our US hopeful in the Youth, all I can say is that noone has worked harder for us. Pat deserves as much support as we can offer, as much of this effort is self(or family) supported. RYP is still accepting World Trials donations for this year, as well as offering vids and such and if you can manage any help it would be greatly appreciated. I got my TDN shirt already, Pat is next(where is that tax return?) You GO boy! Anyway, maybe I will put some more pics up as I can. Thanks to all,

Since this is "mechanical talk", I guess my question is on topic, but is there any "trick" to taking readings that provide consistancy? I know there are a lot of sharp people out there and I could sure use some pointers. Well Jon, since no sharp people have attempted a response, I will attempt to give you a pointer or two! 1- Keep your fingers off the probes, it screws up your readings and hurts your fingers, and clean your probes! 2-Ignore published specs as things do not always work the way thet the guy who wrote them thinks! 3- Just because something checks out according to spec does not neccessarily mean that it will function! 4-Working voltage readings or an O-scope will typically give you a better picture of what is actually happening, but only if you have something good to compare it to! 5- When in doubt, replace with known good component! 6- Forget about actually getting hold of anyone who actually knows about a problem because they will probably lie to protect their job! 7-With computerized systems, when things go bad(in the digital realm) you never quite know where to look because one thing can totally screw up many others and you have no way of monitoring which one is the culprit! 8-In the last decade or so, problems have been multiplied by a bunch of software geeks that do not have a friggin clue about the real world. Many of these are our offspring. You should have worn a condom!

Would be nice if they could spell his name correctly. Oh well! ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!

Dan, As I am no Beta expert, all I can tell is that those little switch pods are real nifty, when they work. As far as failures of the stators, you might try to communicate with this guy, as it seems he repairs most all of them. Coils or triggers, I have no idea, but ? motoplat UK

Well, I can tell you, the worst thing that can happen it that one of your riding buddies comes over and breaks your bloody nose just after you decide to clear out that smoking POS while sitting in the que and forgot about those behind you! That would probably give you a bit of a different attitude! Secondly, excess oil is not ECO friendly and you are much more likely to foul sparkies! Thirdly, you do not JUST repack a Sherco exhaust, chances are you buy a new one after you have knackered yours up! And lastly, the chances of you screwing your motor due to poor maintenance practice or water ingestion are probably 100 times greater than having oil related issues at 80:1 or even 100:1 using quality oil, go figure!

You must first put the dishwasher through the dishwasher, this will take care of the "velcro" issue. Hot Tuuuuuub! Oh yea man, it's 25 friggin degrees outside, Hot TUUUUUB!

I tend to agree, the old factory spec would likely be for bean oil, not modern synthetics. It has been proven time and again that a good oil at 80 to 1 is totally sufficient up to and including world class level riding. 100:1 works fine for the average punter! Unless you plan on roadracing, stay lean= stay clean!

Zipper, never confuse a "tang" with a "taint" (lets see if he knows that one), or your dishwasher will likely slap you! God I hope this works!

Glad you guys made it through the rain and made it back! Great going RYPAT! You are always welcome to come down and spend some time here during the winter months. Have a good time in Europe and kick butt! Eat your Wheaties, and put banannas in your pocket, the girls will love you! And now that supper is over, go hop till you drop! Cheers, MC

I think it may be because we are actually setting the "arm" height at 18.5 giving the resultant "float height" at 24mm?

While inverted, the carb body surface and the float arms should be basically parallel with each other. Measure from the bowl surface up to where the floats contact the arms.

Purely out of ignoranomocity, today I tried to ohm out the actual resistor(carbon pile) out of a sparkie. I could not seem to get a good read on it, but it seemed to range between 500 and 1000 K ohm, quite high resistance for a limited output! (of which I have no idea).

I must agree that these charts seem to go along quite well and agree with the "pants". Not sure the origin, but we need more of this type of info published, 2T as well!

Obviously, you are not telling ****! I think it may just be a good time to buy some **** and sell some ****! If you do have anything in the bank it is not making ****! Anyone want to buy some of this ****?

Best I recall, that means everything LEVEL, float arms level carb upside down and level.

He He, yea Jon, I noticed! Glad I did'nt get a lecture ! Ha! But seriously, with reguard to the bikes that spec the standard NGK BP5ES as an example(not speced for a resistor) the addition of a resistor in an already weak(specially at startup) ignition cannot fare well in my mind. That resistor is just another obsticle in the chain. For those that have never broken a sparkie open, it is just a carbon pile put in series to reduce secondary ignition spikes production of RF signal generation throughout the leads. The modern auto ignitions can easily overcome this added resistance and even run gaps as high as 40-50 thou even with the smal COP(coil on plug) systems, because they have some good stable input voltages that the simple flywheels cannot provide. When put into the science of a trials bike(if there is any), you need to get all you can get out of what little is available as far as electrical power and coils go! Plugs too! I still see many recommend a .020 standard gap for conventional spark plugs to run reliably. The standard plug electrodes can actually shield spark exposure at that minute gap This is where even a resistor type platnum or irridium has an advantage, even at a closed gap, because of the more open exposure of the electrode design to actually doing the job of igniting fuel mix! The one benefit may just overcome the downfall in a given situation. As they said on the space shuttle, it all works in theory? Waiting for Biff results! Earth calling Biff! What is our KV limit here? My guess not much.

Sounds like it is pretty thick with crud if it is that much up the headpipe. Can you still make out the little holes in the muff inlet tube? Carbon and residue buildup basically falls into one of two classes, soft or hard. The soft will normallk break down easily using Gas or Kero as a solvent, or other solvents such as laquer thinner. Hard deposits can be difficult. Careful if you are soaking in an enclosed area as the fumes can be volitile, best put it outside. This is where the pure synthetic oils tend to develop less crud. As an example, inspection of my '07 bike reveals little to no buildup on top of piston, slight bit at first bit of header pipe of hard carbon and little but soft residue down and throughout the rest. What is there is soft and does not seem to accumulate. This is after a full years running probably near 20 trials plus what little practice I do. You do need to ride the **** out of it on occasion if for nothing else but to blow things out! Which seems to help keep things clean by getting the temps up! They will smoke like hell when you do this. A half dozen drag races down a dirt road will usually do it, and get your blood pumping doing 5th gear wheelies at the same time!

Never broken one in the last eight years of operating these things, exceptions do occur, but not the rule!

Maxima MTL 75 or = A proper gearbox oil is recommended, ck with your local dealers! The top brands are all good!

Just read the prior post!