copemech

Having recently don the Paiolis on the Sherco(basically the same i think), the procedure seems to be(on the left) remove cap and spring, drain fork and work as much oil out as you can. When you re-fill, work them a bit to get the air out, then verify the 120mm measure with fork compressed fully, extend fork and install spring, then cap it off. Seemed to work fine on the test ride as well. Unfortunatly, I have not seen much other info on this, other than when you do the other side, you will need to remove the cartradge to get all the old oil out by pumping, then replenish and measure(compressed) and cap off. Hope that helps(and makes sense)!

Well, that makes a few i can count now! And from ALL with the plastic covers i think! You simply cannot trust them to seal because they flex, primarily. Even a metal cover is not absolute in its abiliy to seal against a pressure wash. And you probably do not want to know what they cost when you bang them anyway. Can Shirty(Gas), R2W(Bet), and meself(She) all be totally off the wacker on this, I doubt it, although I normally settle for a 2-3mm hole as I like mine a little tighter! Go figure!

Powerwash the helovit and apply WD! It works!

Sorry bitch wore a red shirt just so the natives did not kill him!

Good to see Jimbo Zuro made it! He is great with the riders! And a all round good fellow! Looks like our resident pro has been practicing a bit! Looking good Andrew!

Did'nt take Cody long to figure out the 3.2! Looks good on it!

I had a bad experience like that once! Going up does not bother me, it is the get off when you are on the edge!

I think you can get by with it just fine, all the way up to the point where your ground clamp has just a little bit too much resistance and some really funky spikes start resonating through the structure looking for some place to go. This (once again) is like sex without a condom, be safe or pay the price, cheap insurance! Key components on a trials bike are the ignition unit, regulator and rectifier. Not too worried about the trigger component in the mag as long as everything else is disconnected.

Just another sh---ty night in Luxembourge, having just won the world youth round and haven it taken away on time penalty, surrounded by German girls and lots of BEER! Great job Pat! How's your Japaneeese, Craig?

It is the rust tough stuff If you feather the edges a bit when you spray, let it dry, then rub it in a bit, you can hardly tell, if you know where it was?

This is what I'm talking about. The Moret kid is obviously no slouch, yet I have not heard of him, and more Spanish kids in waiting it's a tough class!

We shall hope so. I hope he has had enough time to adjust to the time change and practice a bit, even with the Juniors, as that is where he is heading next! Not having seen the total youth roster this year, I yet wonder what Spanish youth will come out of the woodwork? Seems you never know what the Spanish machine will produce next! Go Pat Go!

I recommend you train the first diget on your left hand, the clutch finger. It controls power application better than anything else on the bike. Using second gear a lot forces you to be smoother in application and finding the grip on a big bike. You can settle it a bit with a slow throttle, a timing change if need be, also a heavy flywheel, but finger training is probably the most important thing you will ever do. You can rev it to the moon, but it will only go as far as the finger allows! Have fun!

Youi gotta love it!

I always purchase a spare, that way I will never need it! Has worked so far on the '06 and '07! Maybe you should read through the notes on"Taming the Beast", it ain't no 315!

Please note the fact that air filters are not 100 percent efficient. Use proper "sticky" air filter oil, too much better than too little. I have come to like the Jitsie filters, dual layer may help. Hope that helps?

Best to both them! Lets see some action shots from the events, Craigers!

Sticking after sitting is pretty normal. If the lever adjustment and pull are OK and it still creeps a lot after breaking loose, you will need new plates(both fibre and steel) to operate properly due to warpage.

Eye Andy, Want me to set you up with the site whore in TN? She has no computer! No Herpes! No teeth either! Frenchie(creole) long legs, lots of toys and likes a good thrashing and will give same in response! Donald said it would do you good! Send payment in advance because the ATM will ni spot you that much!

Yes!

This is why I love Jon, he is a bucket load of (bs) knowledge. Yet, I digress. You can do the same (dead stop) method with the dial guage either by setting it to where it just moves OR just starts to slow, and splitting the difference, and you don't need an old modifir=eckup plug to do it! Now just to screw you up even more, I estimate that a 1mm move on the stator plate of your average modern trials bike is roughly equivelant to 1 degree ov timing change. To quantify this a bit more, my simple mind (only caring where they run as I like) said 1mm would have to equal 1 degree of angle for that to be true. And my simple math then told me that for this to be true, you would need a radius of the stator plate of 57.3mm or so! Huuummmm! Sounds pretty close to the basic theory so lets proceed. If not, then there is also a ratio of arc angle that can be calculated using the actual stator plate diameter vs the 57.3mm radii to achieve 1degree timing change per x mm of rotation. So exactly what is the radii or diameter of the inner screw hole pattern or the outer diameter of the plate? As mine is not apart, (which I am not going to do because I really do not know where it is at to begin with) can anyone tell us those basic circle diameters so I can calculate a basic number based upon the spanish preset dimensions and post a simple number to Jon that can say what I am running and he will then be happy enough with the Spanish equivelant of an answer?

I should have said you want the weld to look like a "+" to disburse the stress point where the sections join. If you are doing it on the one side, you need a good full penetration weld on the primary break, then the sides added in. This ties things together better A good man with a Mig can do it easily I would think, more specilized Tig would be optional, possibly optimal, would be up to the operator i think.

Never had that problem. I could'nt burn anything with a red hot gas cap! But after Jon seen me with the Hooter's girls he bought another five shirts!!!!!!!!!!!!

And,

More,