copemech

Coming from Texas, I think someone in there must be either very wealthy, very gay or very hard core to want pedal power that costs more than a car! Maybe a combo, woud'nt that be exciting! And maybe the same goes for the salesman! (person)

It is pretty well established that some systems and manufacturers require resistor type plugs to protect their systems from secondary spikes, others do not and to me and my simple logic, the added electrical resistance is nothing but an additional obsticle for the already weak system to overcome and if not neccessary, probably not in the best interist of providing the goal of igniting fuel! The available voltage and the compression ratio will be the limiting factors upon just how well you can reliably perform this act at a given gap of the plug! Secondly, I doubt you save any money running a top performing fully synthetic ATF and would not recommend using anything less. Point being that you may screw yourself in the process in terms of clutch feel and such. As an example, several years ago I remember the factory frame stickers on the Sherco saying "Sherco recomenda Valvoline" Now this is a Sureflex clutch in a Sherco and the only factory spec was and still is 10-40 as best I recall. Over time the sticker has changed to a simple Ipone logo, but the clutch has not changed. Now I ask you , what the hell does all that mean? I can tell you that at that time I ran Valvoline synthetic motor oil with no problems and possibly better feel than the new bikes, once again depending upon what you want and considering the fact that they have changed to the mid length levers which have a different and shorter "sweet spot'! It all comes into play here!

Biff brings up good points here! Dwell? Burn time? Squiggly line theory? Good god man, we have not had O-scopes that worked on anything in the field in at least 15 years with COP! Theory is no longer tought or used! We have on board computers nowadays that tell everything we never wanted to know and nothing we do!(Refer to recent discussion with zone tech rep on same topic) Secondary problems that drive things crazy due to feedback cannot be viewed or monitored! At least not by anyone that has to try to actually fix them! Good idea though if you have something that will work on yours and ZIPPYS ! "My roommate worked very closely with borg warner with their torque on demand system. You guys have a similar system on jeep. He has a montesa which are known for their clutch drag. As it turns out chain tension and that really expensive stuff was the answer to his problems." I am not quite sure what you are saying here, is he using the transfer case fluid? or something? And yes, we have different fluids that rely upon progressive or modulated clutches to apply power(hopefully smoothly) and I am not sure what additive packages they use. There could be a LOT of experimentation there, more than I would like! Clutch action is a very personal subject as well. I think it basically falls into two classes of riders. Those that want and need smooth progressive action and those who want and need things to happen NOW! And the two should not be confused! I think there will allways be a tradeoff there. Point being that those that may run cheap ATF are screwing themselves!

Pat, Not sure who has the Mont down there, but I would consider it the most gentile of the lot with good reliability unless the Beta is a 250, probably not. The last of the 2T Monts is a well refined product and if you can find a nice one you are in luck! It is like a big girl, that little extra weight just provides comfort! And if you have met James W. he can take good care of you!

place your bike specific questions in the Sherco forum, for opinions and answers as there is really too much for here

Oh crap! Its going to be a hard landing! How do you do that? Obviously before the the computers would let you hit the "up" switch while still showing airspeed! I think it may be time to "punch out"!

At the risk of feeling like Rappers here, taking his weekly flogging for his opinions, I am going to throw out a few things that may or may not draw opinions from others that may be interisted. As the title states, much of this is "seat of the pants" as I am not fortunate enough to have a DYNO sitting in the shed to prove or disprove anything! Some of this would need "Myth Busters" money to prove or disprove! Firstly, Spark Plugs make a difference! I believe they do! Many bikes run the standard plug such as a BP5ES closed down to as little as .020 or .5mm in an effort to accomodate the low power ignition systems on most bikes. You simply have to take advantage of what is there I think! I have run the BP5EVX plug for several years now OPENED UP, taking advantage of its superior electrical properties and running at .027-.028(.7mm) providing better electrical flamefront (ignition) making for easier starting, better low end power and less fouling problems. I have even taken these plugs from bike to bike over the years without normal replacement. Yes they cost more! And I am not quite sure about the Irridium plug as it has a resistor which may defeat some of the electrical properties of the non resistor VX, but I do believe you could run it at .6mm at least with no problems. Secondly, Addition of small quantities of Acetone to fuel to improve atomization. You need to get on the net and do your own research on this. It is a topic upon itself, but I think it works in all vehicles. Maybe something to consider? I am somewhat conservative on these issues myself. There is much info out there! All I can say is that I have done it for the last couple years without problem. Seems to work! Thirdly, Running ATF in a standard clutch and gearbox! This is a topic which may vary by bike, but there are two things I can state with reasonable certainty! 1- the clutches in any automatic transmission are not designed to slip(much) or they will burn up! Or the oil will burn! Therefore you will get more bite! Good for some, not for others! 2- The premium ATF these days is that fully synthetic offered for Allison C-4 trannys! If it does not meet that spec, I would not use it! It is good stuff, but I am not sure it is great for all. A more common gearbox oil may provide better progression in the clutch feel! I am currently considering doing some experiments using friction modifiers in the ATF to "fine tune" to taste! Anyone done this? Seems as though most of the testing on this stuff is "seat of the pants", I like to experiment a bit, but still remain conservative and go with what works and is proven. But at the same time it seems some of the folks around are soo hard headed they would not consider doing anything different and many still run bean oil at 40:1. That should do for now, next I'll start up on Carbs!

Hey Greg, I'm no expert on the beta, but I think you can seal kits from Komer at the Tryals Shop pretty cheap as you may need them. There is a link from the www.trialscomp site if you cannot find it. (Cheers and have fun, run 80:1) synthetic or the Yamalube 2R simi(made by Torco) if you cannot find anything else handy. I prefer Maxima K2 !!!

Works great at home with the high speed fiber connect. At work, the seemingly overloaded T1 line can be a bit sluggish, but I doubt that is the fault of the server, do not know when you get into the intricate workings of it all.

Welcome flatlander! You gotta go hang out at the quarry just down from the Guyot beer haven! Them guys will straighten you out in no time!

Oh yea, this IS the Sherco column, I had to double ck!

You need to find Nigel Dabster, are you near Milton Keynes, you sound very, well, mid, as you can spell "gradiant" ? He can fix anything!

I am totally cool with all that, but I just wish I had the movie of Clark doing the Nosie off the rock into the TREE! Bring your bike Craig, the SR class is just waiting for you!(don't forget the knee and elbow guards) Those rocks are just waiting TOO!

I was kinda thinking the same thing, Norm! I want a shirt if they look good! One of these days if I ever get over other expenses and tax time, I will be able to make my reasonable and customary donations to TDN and Smagical Adventures! Right now I'm trying to save enough to get to Oklahoma!(at $3.50 plus per gallon!)

The Vee Rubber is an economy tire that works fine for the kids and average punter. If you cannot afford a Mich, go for the Dunlop as a serious comp rider!

The 80's I seen had the 17 and 19 inch wheels along with the smaller forks. Not good tires on them either unless you gan get the Vee Rubbers like the small Gasser bike! Ck to be sure what you are getting!

Seems I recall even the Sherco parts book may be incorrect in listing the old gasket so I do not know a pert number. You really just need to take the valve to the auto parts store or hardware store and just find one that fits the groove in the valve. The thicker cross section ov the US ones will give you a bit of insurance. Cheers,

I'm like Jon, had one many years ago, someone probably borrowed it! Along with the cable oiler(thankfully i don't need that)! The push pin has to be very hard tool steel and the body must be hard as well!

Dave, It looks to me as though the diameter on a M6 allen head screw is right at 10mm and as long as that is not a problem I myself would be inclined to see just how well a standard M6 helicoil tap fits those holes. As long as the tap fits the hole, the helicoils will work well and you can get near perfect screws in steel or stainless. The M6 should carry plenty of torque, up to around 88 in/lb as I recall, which is more than a standard screwdriver will provide unless you use an impact in them. The M7 will probably only take about 110 in/lb max anyway I would think. But ultimate load should not be a problem as long as those cases seal up properly. On the other note, the place I checked had the M7 bolts in 40 and 50 lengths. There is nothing wrong with helicoils, did you know that ALL piston aircraft come with the things factory installed in the spark plug holes for durability!

Providind nothing is damaged, you should be able to get a slightly larger diameter US o-ring that will seal it hu! Had to do that on the '06 and worked a charm. Hope that helps,

NO

Well I figure paragraph one should take care of about half the silly sumbiches cause you can't get Monts and unless somone builds fome forks you can't get Gassers either from what I see posted lately! Paragraph two should pretty well finish off the rest if you need a crank pressed or a wheel built in house!

linkylink

i CHECKED AT THE LOCAL STORE AND COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING BUT M7 HEX BOLTS . ooPS But intrestingly enough, it looks like a M6 time-sert thread insert will pretty much screw right into a M7 hole to reduce it to M6, although I do not have a piece to try it on. A M6 helicoil insert may work as well! Then you could go titanium!

What type of head is on them? There are a couple of guys around that specialize in restoring old Monts here in the states, what about the fellow at Bultaco West?