copemech

There are some really nice high intensity LED units available that the enduro type may use. Do not require lots of power, worth a search.

Do not know this as unusual, per se. I have heard many over the years sound off like a gun as they kick back. One trick is to reduce the mag timing a bit, of course a heavier boot may help as well?

And he may usually suck on the first day! Nerves, you know! I will predict a top ten finish tomorrow behind Dibs! We shall see.

Never trust a clutch on a trials bike after sitting. Put the bike in 4th gear and sit on it to rock the bike and break the clutches before starting motor is your best bet, even so use caution. Never ride the bike after washing without inspection/ protection(prior) of air filter and airbox for water entry. You gotta len the bike oer to get ols erl out!

Is Biff going?

Seems as though you know what you are doing, so I will try to help. First , try your motor off a 12V battery to see if it runs. Second, The AC input off the mag must be rectified to DC and regulated to 12 -14 V. Both functions are done by shunting excess to earth by the boxes. If rectifier is out, one would fing excess AC to motor, may effect regulator operation. If reguletor is out DC too high, eventually taking out motor. Third- Thermo switch in circuit easily by-passed for testing if needed. I think it entirely possible to burn out one the little motors n short order with overvoltage.

Brian Putt, Sherco dealer in PA! Master of all Sherco crap up there and father of Andrew "the wizard" Putt!

Yes, if you break it it will fall off! Otherwise fine!

Guessing a PUTT bike? Good deal man, go for it, nothing better!

Nice ride!

I warned you about this ****! Zipper! So you now have a bike you cannot open the throttle on as well, that thing is MAD if you do, yet docile if you dont.

I need more Feckin Rock! Has nothing to do with Rollin Stones in the graveyard! I rock for real wood! #!Never seen this! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=meJ55HPJ3xs #!

One may cap off the overflow tube on the bottom of the bowl, your choice.

Yes, well good to know! Perhaps I was totally off, based upon your initial post which stated you had done all but the conrod. Figured you refreshed the bore. Obviously not. I can tell these things are critical, fact is on my "12 bike it is a rattler(bought used) at idle. Not much to show on the bore and new piston dod not help. Cyl will come off for replate soon!

Splat Chris will give you basic setup instruction guidelines for the Sherco. Range of damping and spring preload will vary a bit on rider prefs and weight but he will get you a good start.

Would not worry too much then. I have tried to blow them up on a number of occasions, without success! They all rattle a bit it seems.

Has to be hot, 5 min idle may not do it! Somewhere around 185-195F(90-95C) I think, and that is coolant temp.

I should add: Wash the damn thing after your ride!!!!!!!!! Before you rip it down!!!!!!!

I can tell this is not a new bike, as the bolts for the pipe are verticle. Piston looks good and bike did not sieze, reports compression on kicker feels normal. No report of excess rattle after. Exhaust port is clean as well, no excess carbon build, so me thinks this a gently ridden bike on pure synthetic oil. A bit of ring blow is to be expected, tarnishing the sides of piston, no excess on yours.

As of Fridays results, TC member and hopefull "Baldilocks" is hanging onto his top 100 spot by his toenails! In the 100th spot, Baldi is only one point behind Becky Cook, spot 99, and actually has a fair chance at whipping the lass. Should things go terribly wrong on Saturday, we shall do our best to insure Bex follows through with a bending of Baldilocks over the knee and a paddle provided by TC.

Sometimes after a stuck throttle overrev the woodruff key on the flywheel will shear. You will have spark, just at the incorrect time so it will not restart. Flywheel puller next!

Add if you bent the floats or the standpipe in the process they will jamb! Requires adjustment!

There may also be a difference in the newer R16v shock, however mine is the standard on my '12 250 and same as yours I think.

Pull spring tight to hook over the tab. Should end up with arms straight unlike your yellow squiggle.