jimmyl

Excellent

Hi there is no full position stop screw. i had this on an old ptb and fixed by glueing a thin bit of steel shim to the casting to stop the actuators going as far

Throttle body stop worn maybe. Does it happen on gently bring up the Revs or snapping throttle open to max?

Can you explain better what the problem is. Does the bike start ok when hot but then does not rev properly - does it ride ok on low revs when hot just not full throttle. Have you checked the spark plug and cleaned the fuel filter in the tank?

I think it is a much the extra torque of a 4 stroke motor as pure power but efi and a 4t motor means it will be the same response every time you go out and no revving and bogging down ala 2t. ride more on the throttle old school and don’t rev and slip the clutch like on a 2t. best of luck

Quiet the opposite surprisingly

There were upgrades from 16 to 17 - extra piston ring and modified piston . Don’t think there was a major issue just maybe used a bit more oil on big events like the ssdt

No difference between 17 / 18 other than the dude stand so condition more important than age. good luck

From my post in 2017 Took the plunge and just got myself a 300rr (Thanks to Thunderroad for giving me support towards this) Having ridden Montesa for just under 20 unbroken years ( ignoring my menage a trois with the Honda tlr 200) the 4rt has been my weapon of choice for nearly 10 years. and the 300rr is my 4th 4rt having had an ex Sandiford 2005, a 2008 tricked bike and a late 2015 std 260 off the late great Munch. These bikes have taken me to a 7th SSDT finish, a couple of Scott attempts, several top 3 clubman finishes in some of S3 events, a welsh O40 championship and recently securing this years ACU Normandale Masters over 50 championship. The above is just just trying to get my background and experience across. I deliberately have stayed away from trying the latest 2 strokes as I find the Honda experience enjoyable but appreciate a fancy lightweight 2 stroke may or not make be a better rider but may also reduce my trials riding enjoyment. (my recent 260 had a S3 pipe and Ohlins shock- it has had a PTB with my own map on it a times) So to the 300rr - I had not tried one before so when I picked it up from dealer yesterday it was my first experience. On initial start up the bike feels and sound soft and deep on tick over - this is a good hint as to what is to come. Today had a good few hours on the bike -mainly steams and rocks and on a venue I know well on previous bikes. Initial feel - not forgetting bike is brand new - and rocks seem twice the size waiting to scratch it the 300rr feels like a nice , new soft version of the 260. However as the bike loosened up a bit and my fear of scratching it came second to the enjoyment of riding the bike my opinion of the bike started to solidify - as a single statement - if you are a 4rt fan its like having your favourite meal cooked by a top chef. Its the same but somehow much better . For some reason the bike feels smaller - When I switched I found the 260 front end much lighter than the 2008. The RR feels very similar but even easier to move about (riders with Showa forks moving to a 300rr may see a bigger deference) The front wheel does not push out as much as previous. I had 2017 footrest hangers on my 260 but the riding position seems better again. The clutch seems superb - not sure if a change or just that its new but this along with the softer, greater grunt at the bottom of the power range makes the bike super stable on turns - especially turning into the rocky - slippery stream today - definitely best 4rt I have ridden in this respect. Travelling up streams the bikes does what it does best - grips and tracks well over rocks - the softer more torgue motor really helps and allows you to ride just off the throttle -something all Monts love. Both front and rear suspension is nice - maybe a little stiff to start with but as the day went on the bike became lighter and more responsive on the suspension but never lost its super stable feel. Trying the bike on some banks and turns again the extra torque allows the throttle to be backed off halfway up a bank and use the grunt to maintain grip - a plus over the 260. Both soft and quicker maps work in this situation. The quicker map I found suited me better and similar to the Sains map but could maybe get you in to trouble if a big handful of throttle grabbed at the wrong time. The softer map caught me out once when coming out of a stream up a bank - I found I didn't have the necessary zip to carry me over a slimy slab at the top of the bank. With the quicker map the bike sailed over. Didn't get chance to try any big climbs but on a reasonable incline the power is smooth, controllable and non stopping. The front wheel could be picked up and carried to your hearts content - all very controllable.. Never felt the bike was dragging me around - something i did find when my 2008 had a 280cc kit on. The front pipe is 30mm dia and looks a little longer - So to the 300rr -definitely all helps with that super steady bottom end. Finished off by practising my stop allowed skills and placing the font end on the stream banks and lifting back in. I had done this exercise on the 260 recently - the 300rr felts so much more stable and balance. Think the bottom end torque, better clutch and lighter front end combined to make this much improved on the RR. The standard shorter rear brake pedal works well with the set back footrests - those on std 4rts will be digging out the Honda pat number . Will advise more as and when I glean anything more from my new mount Part 2 went to observer at an easy trial run by my club today. Got a chance to play on some muddy banks and cambers at the end when sections had cut up the most. On a couple of section around trees cambers and climbs etc the bike riders like the 260 - a little more planted and stable but grips well when riding like a normal 4rt. The softer power at the bottom end helps with the slow stuff. One section which appears to have been one of the hardest had some deep mud and climbs and cambers and was well snotty when I got to it at the end of the trial. The 300 was fine on this going in 2nd and 3rd but also in 4th - previous 4rts have always struggled pulling 4th unless big climbs or very deep fast bogs. The RR can be ridden in 4th almost as easily as you can ride in 3rd. 4th can be ridden of the throttle from low speed and also hang off the back across the cambers having rolled the throttle off - not sure if this is the clutch, the torque of the motor , revised internal gearing but definitely something new for the 4rt tool box. In the mud I still favoured the full power map as I like to get the bike wound up and digging in for grip - some smoother riders may prefer the softer map. With the PTB you can always add any map that suits your style.

The RR is much better

I don't think we suggesting that they should be sharpened to a point -just dressed to return then to as new condition. I do remember gashing my shin on the footrest of my new 2003 Gasgas contact many years back. Decided to check in to casualty when I got home and a couple of stitches were recommended - was most taken aback when the nurse asked if the metal I had done the injury on was rusty - heck no - only just bought the blooming think was my reply to which my wife added - and he hasn't stopped polishing yet

If you file the valleys rather than the peaks you can restore a better profile without making them razor sharp. works on the old style metal and Ally ones but no need with the grub screw style which just need the screws changing every year or so. the angle of you footrests is more important. Can’t believe how many droopy pegs you see while sat in a queue . ( other pet hate - snail cams pointing down ???)

Round file is best - I always set my pegs above horizontal as when the bike leans they naturally slope downwards enticing your feet to slide off. Trials boots are much better than MX ones -even if you bet a second hand pair

I ride a 4rt and would never go back to a carb - I know EFI is more complicated and heavier but think the benefits outweigh the disadvantages. i think we would all like electric start - just got to get the maths to stack up

And next escalators on steep sections ??

For trail/ easy trial / older / less physically strong rider I can see all the benefits - trouble is would imagine that is a different market - possibly more niche and therefore production volumes smaller / less feasible financially . The small 4 t bikes already in the market are I presume ideal for what they do. To have a usp such as hybrid/ regenerative braking that may give a technical advantage to all forms of trials may make a built in electric start economic. But think much tougher emissions or increase fuel economy would have to be imposed on manufactures before that happened - but like the 2 Stoke ban ??

Maybe they could fit a lever connected to the engine we could push with our leg. bet it would be dead simple and light weight . but then we would not have to spend lots of money on titanium bits to make the bike lighter!! Now the technology as part of a hybrid system them maybe now that makes sense . 125cc efi 4 stroke with the power and response of 300 cc 2 t maybe has legs

The OEM parts are Galfer - I have found in the past Honda prices in the UK are cheaper than aftermarket - maybe you need to work on your staff discount I have found that Galfer are good in dry conditions but wear very quickly in winter/mud etc. Goldfren are good in the mud and grime but too hard for summer use I have recently used DAB products pads which are a good compromise and good value - not sure about supply to Canada though.

Interesting to see Steve Saunders won it on 5 different manufactures bikes James Dabill next on 4 makes.

Treat yourself to a new cover

I just let it wear so it doesn’t fold back. If it starts going too forward then weld the bracket to get it back to the slightly worn position. if you build up the weld a bit at the front of the bracket this position last a long time . On a new bracket you can file the radius down a bit as said previously and then stick a blob of weld on the profile of the bracket to stop it going any further forward

I'm sure after a bit of use they become stiffer so maybe look to re-profile the bracket when the stand is in the down position so it almost locks the stand in place -bit of weld and a file should suffice - maybe allow the stand to go further forward than when new will assist (as it does on a worn stand). I put my stand down and work on the bike with wheel out / brake caliper off and stand down so must be achievable

I must be missing the point but what is the issue. I know the stands are not the best but a tweak and s bit of weld on the bracket every year or so makes them perfectly useable As for it flicking back up - always get off on the side stand side and hold the stand with your foot until the weight of the bike holds it in place. if that much of an issue maybe allow the stand to come forward a bit more on the bracket and weld a bit to make it go stiff when it gets there. i think once the bike has had a bit of the use the stand is less likely to flick back up quickly anyway

Did mine on 2017 rr during Lorax S3 round . I am heavy on air box and exhaust covers over the years - must be my grip on tight and go method of riding ?? Think covers are dirt cheap £20 ? check for leaks as Jr says and that the little rubber bung is in place presume it has melted where your boot rubs

Looks like English Spelling is like English But dam sure don't make no sense to me Or maybe it just means the kids cant be bothered to spend what cash they have on motorbikes anymore