jimmyl

12mm headed bolt going into the side of casing not underneath

Have looked back at the 4rt pres releases from2005 and they claim the firsts self powered battery less efi

1997 was the white and yellow model think this is a 98 as design and colour scheme matches other 98s on intyweb

was the 4rt not the first battery less efi though

Unbolt calliper push piston back most of the way This will alllow 1 pad to fall forward and out then the 2 nd one is easy to put back put the one pad in and push into place with a small screw driver and second one will then go back in. not sure what the benefit over the old design with a pin but they where much easier and I’m sure the friction material was thicker as not restricted by the install method

I stuck with the 4rt and just enjoy the good times - I deliberately don't try 2ts just in case I'm drawn back from the dark side? As said many times you pay your money and make your choices.. I think the longer you stick with the 4rt and are able to learn its quirks then they can be as competitive as anything on the clubman route - expert wise then they may be less competitive or more limiting??

I seem to recall in a previous fault finding post that the temp sensor is just that and not a thermo switch . Ecu maybe looking for a resistance and not an on/ off signal. if going into limp would when no obvious fault would imagine its a bad input going into ecu rather than an ecu fault as such . dodgy sensors / corroded joint / broken wire etc hope Santa brings you a simple fix

It’s an easy measurement so don’t think that’s the reason - think more the marketing is now done by “branding experts “ as they say on the apprentice rather than engineers so graphics are more important than mm ( inches for the pre 65 brigade) and degrees ??

Now the bridge is free lots of good events down South Wales ??????? ??

I don’t know for certain but would think the limp mode is in the ecu software which I don’t think you can readily get into to change . Ive had a fuel pump play up and a ptb fault in the past and not had the limp mode kick in so maybe a temp issue . I wonder if you linked the sensor out and put fan in manual you could maybe fault find further or kid the ecu that all was ok and hence come out of limp mode.

I could do that on a 2t ??? Think that's just called trials riding. I think the variation can be greater on 4rt though especially if the condition are 4rt un friendly - slippery - hop and stop type going that the 2 t riders can hop - balance then burn at

I know all the above but just wondered as an engineering project if would be interesting. Honda developed the EFI battery less system on the 4rt as a first and now on many other machines so maybe not a financial decision for a main stream builder . What cost to build an electric bike but they are about - suppose it's a bit more bolt together a few standard items for electric

Not sure why you would want to - what the thinking behind the question?

In various chats about bike development etc its 2t, 4t, electric etc and always rumours about Honda releasing a new bike in 2020- 2021 etc and guessing what they may do next - it wont be a 2t as currently their policy is against that technology but it got me to thinking about a hybrid bike. Trials is probably 70% low power with 30% max power. Lots of descents as well for regenerative braking. Just wondered if a small capacity engine with back up electric would work. Weight would always be a drawback but maybe combined generator/motor, minimal fuel, single speed may off set it. Just a random thought but would be an interesting project - might be interesting in the wet if the battery shorted out???

They are a bit of a marmite bike. Either way if you do switch then give the 4rt 6 months - initially you may get better but then may go backwards -especially in slimy conditions but once/if you master the technique they can be very rewarding and good fun. Maybe coming of a twin shock maybe an advantage as they benefit from an old school style of riding -weight back and good throttle control - not the 2T zip and clutch burn technique. Once you believe they will grip and hang on a second longer then the grip is there -if you bail out and foot then they can spin and the grip is gone. Clutch out and feel for the grip using the bottom end torque gives dividends but you have to believe in the bike. First gear is amazing and will grip but you have to be a bit brutal once you have the grip in a lower gear -I have had some mega cleans in 1st gear where 2t riders are pulling 3rd. Depends on your riding style I guess.

I’m sure there is a diagram in the 4rt manuL that shows wheel off set - 315 is the same - maybe worth a check The chain guard bolts I think have a little collar to stop the bolt digging into the plastic - make sure all is flush. agsin check 4rt manual and parts list to see if the bolt you have looks correct The normally issue is the wheel rubbing the stand spring so strange to be touching the other side

There is a whole lot more than just flywheel weight that effect engine response - porting/valve size (2t/4t), ignition map, carb size etc etc. To compare flywheel weighs from one bike to another is like asking how much ingredients to put in a curry cos I put 3 tomatoes in my spag bolls. Asking Altering flywheel weight on the same make and model will assist if you want to tweak things but I thing that is about as useful as you can go

love to have seen the risk assessment on this one?

A bit of oil on the wet and dry keeps the muck attached i never go past just removing the old carbon and just polishing the seat . seems to have worked to date and yes very gentle and patient when freeing the injector

and make sure they don't slope down when looking at the font /or rear of the bike. Spot of weld keeps them sloping slightly so your feet don't slide off when you lean the bike over when riding. It amazing how many people have droopy pegs

the Mercedes injector issue is a simple cheap fix if you catch it quick enough. Lots of penetrating oil (various brands available) will see injector come out with a bit of wiggling. Unless badly burnt I use a piece of 15mm copper pipe with a stop end on one end an a 90 elbow on the other. Wrap some insulation tape around about an inch up to make a snug fit in the bore then some fine wet and dry double sided to the end , Use a bit like seating a valve, once happy with a good witness mark on the wet and dry give a really clean out then make sure the retaining bolt holes are immaculate and free running - cut a slot in the old bolt to clean out the thread then some 4mm air pipe on a blow gun to get right to the bottom of the hole, Genuine Mercedes sealing washers and bolts and torque exactly as specified -be very careful - easier to do the job twice than snap the bolt in the head Done a few on the van and also on the better halves c class - about 1/2 hour per injector now I got my set up

the 300rr ones give a nicer feel but not sure if they stick out any further but being rounder will maybe give more support when standing on the outside edge.

Just checked - different part numbers

You can check parts lists on line to see if different.. i recall the showa set up had a spacer on the disc side which is not needed on the tech forks as the bottom boss is wider . Would maybe suggest thread is a different length??

The 4 ride is on the insurance list fortunately for you ??