jimmyl

I'm sure after a bit of use they become stiffer so maybe look to re-profile the bracket when the stand is in the down position so it almost locks the stand in place -bit of weld and a file should suffice - maybe allow the stand to go further forward than when new will assist (as it does on a worn stand). I put my stand down and work on the bike with wheel out / brake caliper off and stand down so must be achievable

I must be missing the point but what is the issue. I know the stands are not the best but a tweak and s bit of weld on the bracket every year or so makes them perfectly useable As for it flicking back up - always get off on the side stand side and hold the stand with your foot until the weight of the bike holds it in place. if that much of an issue maybe allow the stand to come forward a bit more on the bracket and weld a bit to make it go stiff when it gets there. i think once the bike has had a bit of the use the stand is less likely to flick back up quickly anyway

Did mine on 2017 rr during Lorax S3 round . I am heavy on air box and exhaust covers over the years - must be my grip on tight and go method of riding ?? Think covers are dirt cheap £20 ? check for leaks as Jr says and that the little rubber bung is in place presume it has melted where your boot rubs

Looks like English Spelling is like English But dam sure don't make no sense to me Or maybe it just means the kids cant be bothered to spend what cash they have on motorbikes anymore

Be interesting to see the cost / durability stainless bearings - ie 3 times the price 3 times the life or just less hassle?

Google 6004 2rs stainless.

I wonder if it was a condition of the sale of Montesa to Honda to keep the brand or Honda just see it as a marketing avenue, I thought I read somewhere a while back that the Montesa name was dropped from the works bikes/team??

I ride virtually every weekend including a couple S3s and all Normandales etc -got 3 sets of wheel and maybe change bearings in each once a year or maybe twice in the wheels I use most. I buy a bag load on flebay 12 for £20 or similar so if it cost me £20 or £30 year. I have a tool to knock out /drift back in correctly and takes 5 mins to swap. I run them until they are noticeably rough rather than as soon as you feel any hint of play - works out at less than 50p a trial worst case so can live with that - as said above if you are going through say a set a month just riding weekends then something is probably not right.

Have you checked tick over

I think trials conditions are probably worse than a 500 mile trail ride as engine is hot and cold and working at lower rpm/ higher loads etc. But yes I think the 4rt manual and service spec is based on motocross conditions and not trials. 6 weeks oil and filter every other has worked for me over the last 10 yrs. Also added with a bit of common sense - probably ride all summer in club trials and change less often. A flat out S3 round or wet national and will do more often

From memory It's a mudguard off, loosen air box Unscrew the clamps on the inlet and air box hose -the throttle body will them come off if you unplug it. Tank off or at least unbolted Take plastic cover . Unclip Throttle end You can then twist the adjuster out of the Throttle body by spinning the throttle body - feed old cable out/ new cable back in Reverse above make sure you have free play in the cable. Also worth giving the throttle body a clean out - I used WD40 or similar to swill the internal bore - take out tick over screw and flush drilling - makes a note of the number of turns and don't loose the spring.

Don’t think I’ve replaced a gasket for 4 or 5 years by oiling/ greasing on assembly

Will dig it out unless Dave beats me to it

did you see Barfy's(Dave's) drawing

I think the 315 used to have them if you search for that

Glad your sorted but trying to get around the logic of your problem/solution. If I read your post correctly you had this issue with 2 completely independent sets of friction and steel plates. Therefore would think the problem is not related to that -you have done all the mods to the basket etc with no improvement so would think not that. Slipping the clutch you would think would only have an effect on the clutch plates but we have ruled them out as you have had 2 sets. Slipping the clutch so aggressively though could generate a lot of heat which then transferred to slave cylinder or other parts of the actuator mechanism - or maybe some water in the brake fluid which has now boiled off. Maybe a partly sticking piston which with heat has freed off. May never know?? Hope it stays working fine though for you.

Think the elf oil was spec on the 315r also but as with the 4rr atf works equally as good as designed for very pack clutches with a smooth take up and minimal flare ??

The std clutch isn’t bad - May could be improved . what you describe is a major fault somewhere or you are super fussy. doing all the work indicated is fine if you are super fussy but should not be necessary unless you have a major fault / or bad set up in the actuation mechanism - master /Slave/ hose / levers etc . My take on it any way as a mont man for 20 years plus and an qualified engineer

The std 315/4rt set up is very good. The snail cams are small and compact and less likely to be knocked on rocks which can move the rear wheel and worst case take the chain off. The big over size snail cams may look bling but may cost you a five or worse. the csp ones look like a lighter weight version of the standard so probably you have the best set up already ??

does the release point seem a long way in on the clutch lever - would be good to determine if its an actuator problem or is it an actual clutch issue. maybe master cyl has been rebuilt with the wrong piston or something silly.

It in the big rubber boot under the Throttle body - above the gearbox sprockets -needs a bit of fishing out among the other plugs. You will need to confirm the 260 2106 has a PTB

Check the Crf software - maybe more up to date. thats the trail it led me

If you check press release / sales blurb for the 2017 it did say PTB. Having to send it back to Japan is a bit of a loose definition of PTB?? As said I wouldn’t want to change mine ?

Would that be an 8RT glad you are having fun and enjoying the 4rt

Had same results I think may need more modern software - I did look into it but I like the st set up on the RR so didn't bother progressing.