jimmyl

Yep 3 to 3.5 turns is there abouts just done it on a friends ?

301 rr is much superior. the 300 and 301 I found much easier to ride as much smoother bottom end. Let a friend have a go on my 301 as he normally rides repsol and couldn’t believe how much easier and better the 301 is

Slacken bolt on top of fuel injector to see if you have pressure - may give you a clue where to look next . just crack the bolt and kick the bike over

Silver Mitanni carbon will look nice on the latest std models

The more you actually ride the 300 it becomes much easier to ride than a 260 as it is much smoother and better torque. never felt the 300 had more power than a 260 due to its smoothness but as you say it is a bit more money. fyi I believe the larger button on the map switch is the more aggressive map

There’s a few 300rr’s about go on spoil yourself ??

Less engine braking is advertised in 2020 official specs. Mapping and breather altered??

2016 fuel pump change onwards I think was more a standardisation with maybe non montesa models - up to 15 is the same pump as on your earlier bikes. 260 less braking than the 250 and is noticeable , 301 is even less and think same mon the 2020 260’s but not ridden one. i had a std 260 2015 and put an ohlins on the back and s3 pipe and was top bike - and still cheaper than a repsol. Would put the s3 pipe on repsol either way. Put the bike to std to sell and sold bits for what I paid so win/ win/winner ???

Hi - welcome to the gang think western centre ACU will be your area if you google that they have web site. also go on ACU web site as all trials Uk trials are listed. if you don’t mind travelling and want some good value coaching then google trials training Wales - Think western centre have tracing but maybe only kids?

Any normal grease or even rub with clean engine oil to stop it sticking to the crankcase 1/2

If a cheap one last 6 months at £2 then a ceramic would have to last 3 years to break even Think ill stick with the cheap and cheerful approach -my wheels are out every weekend so no hardship to swap bearing at the same time. I do have 3 set of wheels and bearing swap intervals probably is not the same for each set - My best wheels - bearing always nearly new and would swap with slight play appearing , Normal competition wheels -used for local trials so would allow a bit of play before deciding to change, practice wheels - when the tires rub on the swinging arm or fork leg then will change ?? well maybe not that bad

I treat bearings as a consumable item. Buy in bulk for a few pounds each - always keep a 2 or 3 sets of new ones at all times and when they feel too rough or I have some bigger events coming up I swap them out. 10 min job - less than a tenner - no stress on the grey matter ??

Have a search though past posts as there have been lots of good advice posted. Ie Lay bike on its side to do filter after draining oil The oil filter will come out despite what you think, the new one fits easy -put some grease on the spring. - Makes sure the oil filter retaining spigot is seated 100% square or flywheel cover wont go back on the dowels. grease the gasket and will last numerous changes without needing to be replaced Put the oil back in before putting casing back on. Valve clearances hardly ever need adjusting. Clean Throttle body every 12 months - remove and wipe and clean out idle drilling. The rest pretty much std

I heard nail varnish but never tried it

Found IRC gripped well when you got them spinning but find the xlite very consistent on all conditions on the 4rt on steady sections and a good degree of throttle control. x lite my choice of tyre having ridden. Itc an std mich

FYI- Brian Higgins is the series coordinator and visited all the rounds this year prior to the events and was very much hands on and helped on the weekend of the event. As I believe he will be doing the same in 2020 and working with clubs and C of C to get consistency of severity and length of section correct. I'm thinking the idea is to keep the more flowing no stop style sections but take away the debate of did they pause for a micro second or not. It will be more are you out in time and did you put a foot down of fall off. Riders will have to re learn the skill of balancing and maybe saving a one and then rushing the section or maybe gamble a dab and makes sure of the rest of the sections. Maybe the 90 seconds allows too much static time and the trial becomes a bit to much stop start. I guess time will tell but but at least it will be different.

If you switch to the 4rt see if mr Sumter will give you some tips being in his neck of the woods - nobody better to learn off ??

There are some very good deals on std 260 4rts . The bike is basically the same from 16 on. You get Honda build quality and the option to upgrade some parts later on if you feel the need - rear shock and an s3 front pipe are good additions - the pipe more than shocker for the more clubman rider . all 4rts ride similar - the 300rr better and 301 better again but you pay for the improvement if you ride a more traditional style then 4rt suits - if you are a rev and dump the clutch then maybe not so. either way the smile factor of a 4rt on a bit of a blast is unique??

Isn’t 1/8 less than 7/8??

Gearing down I think spoils the 4rt best points in that it’s gear are long- first gear is amazing on std gearing- you can clean things in first that beta fixers are doing in 3rd. i think the trick on a 4rt is to use the higher tick over to your advantage. Maybe on a t2 you blip throttle and slip clutch against each other - modulatting both On the mont you set the throttle steady and modulate the clutch against it . This seems to help smooth out the torque spikes and minimise engine braking . if you blip the throttle you get a kind of learner driver kangaroo juice effect in miniature

I think the Montesa has 2 quirks - they like to ridden quiet forcefully - also they do not respond to the 2 stroke rev/dump the clutch and burn technique. If you ride maybe a lower gear quite forcefully with weight maybe slight rearwards compared to a 2t the bike will reward you , Once hooked up and in a straight line or before a step/bank you need to get the revs on the ride on the over run - ala Toni Bou. The bike also has lots of low down torque which will allow you to get grip on tick over in low gears - but you have to believe and hang on with good throttle control - I think beginners/lesser riders maybe less fit riders can struggle with this concept and hence why people think they don' grip. Also they grip in higher gears in deep mud but the revs need to be built up steadily with a constant slip of the clutch and then once gripping the throttle can be buried and get ready for orbit

Thought that’s what I said so thanks reconfirming ??

Assuming they are tech forks then the tech fork website is very good with full strip down instructions and oil quantity and settings etc

As I read the press release the rules are for BTC only. As ACU handbook is not out yet I guess we can only ponder if these rules will be allowed in any other event but time will confirm one way or another. As organisers have already agreed to to run the other championships presume they will be running as they did in 2019.

Hi No never tried again -had a look on line at the CRF programming stuff but nothing was cheap and didn't want to spend the money for just a play. Maybe need to ask my dealer if they have software available as they have both the Montesa and Honda off road franchises as well as their road bike offerings. Also Are you saying the 301 has 301RR parts list and manual are now out. And nothing in either about the stock 4ED 16400-NN1-P71 The 300 RR being 16400-NN4-M71 Other throttle bodies have a noticeably different parts number not just a letter change!!