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jimmyl

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Everything posted by jimmyl
 
 
  1. I would suggest it stops injecting fuel so engine stops clean if you stall potential for fully charged cylinder full of fuel this is the difference a carb and injected engine how’s the popcorn 😂😂👍
  2. Always best to stop with kill button as this stops engine in correct sequence
  3. Presume you let it warm up on tick over for a short while before opening throttle. Are you doing a lot of stop start riding. Do you stop it with the kill button -don't stall it to stop. Try staring it and just let it tick over for 10 mins - they often sort themselves out -I have had it on cold days when doing a few section close to each other at the start of a trial, -just leave it ticking over when you walk the section
  4. I think there are 4 options you go illegal and hope for the best you find a friendly land owner - give a them a cash donation every time you ride but accept there is probably no insurance cover get your local club to run an official practice sessions / closed to club / training event with correct ACU permit - that will involve organisation etc and by tied to specific dates and some rules to be followed (c of c/ coach etc etc )and May mean venues become over used find a commercial enterprise that will set up a piece of land and run it as a business all but option 1 will cost we are lucky down in wales to have all options but I cannot condone option 1
  5. The wheel would need machining to make it narrower or you could get a newer wheel The pre 2000 hub has a longer bearing boss but disc is in same place
  6. Worth buying a couple of air filters then always got a clean one Get a Flame proof after market one saves fiddling with original foam and metal cage. once oiled leave to dry on the bench as if you put into air box straight away will I’ve starting issues until any solvent evaporated 👍👍
  7. I would change oil first and see if it makes a difference before spending money. Don’t think the clutch will need bleeding as cover comes off without disconnecting hydraulics if I recall
  8. For the really muddy stuff I have tried to copy some of the good southern 4rt riders. Its almost 2/3 revs but constant - maybe 3rd gear - slip the clutch at a consistent point and control speed and grip with back brake - once you get momentum you can really sit into the bike and give it the beans. I can not confess to be an expert at this technique -out of maybe 5 goes 3 I rocket up the climb -1 is almost a total loop out and the 5th is a spinning mess!!. I don't ride that kind of mud too often so only practices it now and again - but watching some of the other 4rt riders who have it down to a art it works well. For normal type mud its essential to get get some revs on before the hazard and ride on the overrun - get some speed on then back off once moving and keep playing with riding on the over run.
  9. Regrease every couple of months and will avoid getting into condition you found it. Regrease leaving swing arm in is not a major job
  10. if its just a bit slack then try a re grease If not All balls kits is ok. You can try and do with swing arm in or out - used to leave it in but now preferer to take swing arm out. Use a bungy around the exhaust and onto spindle slot on swing arm to hold it up while you undo bolts etc. Takes the weight nicely Use suitable sockets and vice to push old out and new in. Remember which side the linkage bolts come out as a bit of a fiddle if you have a stand still on the bike and also need to jiggle through chain slipper and swing arm. I engrave/scratch onto the dog bone and side plates with left/right and an up arrow as soon as I take them out as easy to get mixed up plates and Probably an hours work All the best
  11. Normally get away with gasket if you do need to change it oil the outer side and will come apart next time so no need to change 👍
  12. Oil filter under a £5 on ebay- I buy a few at a time as cheaper Engine oil £12 for 2 service’s gearbox £10 a fill if you use elf a lot less if you use atf
  13. If greasing I leave swing arm In just put on a stand and pull back wheel out bungy on the swing arm and around the silencer to keep it up for access👍👍
  14. In the past I would always do with swing arm left in the bike but last few times found easiest to take swing arm out . Just unscrew the rear brake hose clamps If the swing arm dog bone bearing is seized in it gives you best access to get out and replace. Sockets, threaded rod, vice etc or pullers used to push old out and new in. Remember which direction the bolts come out of the linkages as some will only go back in from same side due to the stand. One will wiggle past the chain slider despite looking like it wont. The main swing arm bearing I have never seen wear on the 8? monts I have had (315/4RT) just grease and pit back in but if you have new you could swap but you may find the genuine Honda ones better than aftermarket replacement so save for a rainy day. best of luck
  15. pre 2015 and pre 2020 swap ok - its just the front edge of the mudguard where it sits on the back edge of the tank. I also used to run older rear mudguards on my 2015 and newer bikes during winter and practices as better in the mud. The latter models are quiet a bit different - the back of the tank is a little bit higher so the recall there is a taller rubber support needed and the mud catcher/support at the back of the air box is different. The alternative parts would be available but not sure how it would marry up with the back of an earlier tanks as the new tanks are quite a bit different on the top.
  16. One thing I Think Sammy Miller said is use the tools you are carrying at least once in the garage - no point carrying a tool around that breaks/doesn't actually fit or several tool that you are never going to use. Can you cut and shut several tools together - I weld the end of an Allen key onto my adjustable spanner for front spindle - saves carrying 6" of Allen key around. You could weld a socket etc to one if more suited. Try and standardize on bolts -ie fit allen screws rather than hex head bolts to the bike -minimal cost but 1 tool does all - I think my mono yam could be virtually stripped with just a screwdriver. couple of Allen keys and my multi tool adjustable spanner - SSDT prep👍 Again Sammy would fit as many tools to to the bike as possible and a spare clutch and throttle cable routed in place and taped to existing ones. Some money - again Sammy carried notes not coins as lighter -no good in the wilderness but may help get you a lift home. If not a tube (front one -lighter) and will do a rear if needed to get you home then at least a puncture kit and pump - if only trail riding then time is not as much an issue as in an event . Possibly fuel in case you tip it upside down -gaffer tape -cable ties 🤣🤣🤣
  17. jimmyl

    290 rear hub

    I bought a spare wheel with similar issue -had welded and been my practice wheel on my 4rt for a few years now
  18. I seem to recall that the temp sender is not just a switch but one that gives varying output as the temp rises - the ecu decides when the fan comes on. I think the Ecu uses the temp info for fuel setting and limo home modes etc could be wrong but sure I read it it somewhere Maybe need to check before just linking out
  19. Is the fan free when the radiator gets warm ? Does the fan sound to be running fast or varying with engine speed
  20. Presume air filter isn’t soak or freshly oiled
  21. I'm sure the hub is narrower as well - had to machine my spare wheel when I changed to the newer model
  22. think it was just the rear caliper that changed - think master cylinders are all the same
  23. The 4rt master cyl maybe the same as 315
  24. Is it just since you changed the pads or before. Is the calliper twisted on the spindle he so the pads are contacting at an angle and jamming the pistons
 
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