jimmyl

The wheel would need machining to make it narrower or you could get a newer wheel The pre 2000 hub has a longer bearing boss but disc is in same place

Worth buying a couple of air filters then always got a clean one Get a Flame proof after market one saves fiddling with original foam and metal cage. once oiled leave to dry on the bench as if you put into air box straight away will I’ve starting issues until any solvent evaporated 👍👍

I would change oil first and see if it makes a difference before spending money. Don’t think the clutch will need bleeding as cover comes off without disconnecting hydraulics if I recall

For the really muddy stuff I have tried to copy some of the good southern 4rt riders. Its almost 2/3 revs but constant - maybe 3rd gear - slip the clutch at a consistent point and control speed and grip with back brake - once you get momentum you can really sit into the bike and give it the beans. I can not confess to be an expert at this technique -out of maybe 5 goes 3 I rocket up the climb -1 is almost a total loop out and the 5th is a spinning mess!!. I don't ride that kind of mud too often so only practices it now and again - but watching some of the other 4rt riders who have it down to a art it works well. For normal type mud its essential to get get some revs on before the hazard and ride on the overrun - get some speed on then back off once moving and keep playing with riding on the over run.

Regrease every couple of months and will avoid getting into condition you found it. Regrease leaving swing arm in is not a major job

if its just a bit slack then try a re grease If not All balls kits is ok. You can try and do with swing arm in or out - used to leave it in but now preferer to take swing arm out. Use a bungy around the exhaust and onto spindle slot on swing arm to hold it up while you undo bolts etc. Takes the weight nicely Use suitable sockets and vice to push old out and new in. Remember which side the linkage bolts come out as a bit of a fiddle if you have a stand still on the bike and also need to jiggle through chain slipper and swing arm. I engrave/scratch onto the dog bone and side plates with left/right and an up arrow as soon as I take them out as easy to get mixed up plates and Probably an hours work All the best

Normally get away with gasket if you do need to change it oil the outer side and will come apart next time so no need to change 👍

Oil filter under a £5 on ebay- I buy a few at a time as cheaper Engine oil £12 for 2 service’s gearbox £10 a fill if you use elf a lot less if you use atf

What bits are you buying?

If greasing I leave swing arm In just put on a stand and pull back wheel out bungy on the swing arm and around the silencer to keep it up for access👍👍

In the past I would always do with swing arm left in the bike but last few times found easiest to take swing arm out . Just unscrew the rear brake hose clamps If the swing arm dog bone bearing is seized in it gives you best access to get out and replace. Sockets, threaded rod, vice etc or pullers used to push old out and new in. Remember which direction the bolts come out of the linkages as some will only go back in from same side due to the stand. One will wiggle past the chain slider despite looking like it wont. The main swing arm bearing I have never seen wear on the 8? monts I have had (315/4RT) just grease and pit back in but if you have new you could swap but you may find the genuine Honda ones better than aftermarket replacement so save for a rainy day. best of luck

pre 2015 and pre 2020 swap ok - its just the front edge of the mudguard where it sits on the back edge of the tank. I also used to run older rear mudguards on my 2015 and newer bikes during winter and practices as better in the mud. The latter models are quiet a bit different - the back of the tank is a little bit higher so the recall there is a taller rubber support needed and the mud catcher/support at the back of the air box is different. The alternative parts would be available but not sure how it would marry up with the back of an earlier tanks as the new tanks are quite a bit different on the top.

One thing I Think Sammy Miller said is use the tools you are carrying at least once in the garage - no point carrying a tool around that breaks/doesn't actually fit or several tool that you are never going to use. Can you cut and shut several tools together - I weld the end of an Allen key onto my adjustable spanner for front spindle - saves carrying 6" of Allen key around. You could weld a socket etc to one if more suited. Try and standardize on bolts -ie fit allen screws rather than hex head bolts to the bike -minimal cost but 1 tool does all - I think my mono yam could be virtually stripped with just a screwdriver. couple of Allen keys and my multi tool adjustable spanner - SSDT prep👍 Again Sammy would fit as many tools to to the bike as possible and a spare clutch and throttle cable routed in place and taped to existing ones. Some money - again Sammy carried notes not coins as lighter -no good in the wilderness but may help get you a lift home. If not a tube (front one -lighter) and will do a rear if needed to get you home then at least a puncture kit and pump - if only trail riding then time is not as much an issue as in an event . Possibly fuel in case you tip it upside down -gaffer tape -cable ties 🤣🤣🤣

I bought a spare wheel with similar issue -had welded and been my practice wheel on my 4rt for a few years now

I seem to recall that the temp sender is not just a switch but one that gives varying output as the temp rises - the ecu decides when the fan comes on. I think the Ecu uses the temp info for fuel setting and limo home modes etc could be wrong but sure I read it it somewhere Maybe need to check before just linking out

Is the fan free when the radiator gets warm ? Does the fan sound to be running fast or varying with engine speed

Presume air filter isn’t soak or freshly oiled

I'm sure the hub is narrower as well - had to machine my spare wheel when I changed to the newer model

think it was just the rear caliper that changed - think master cylinders are all the same

The 4rt master cyl maybe the same as 315

Is it just since you changed the pads or before. Is the calliper twisted on the spindle he so the pads are contacting at an angle and jamming the pistons

2015 part numbers for std rear mudguard -I think 87132-NN4-K10 STICKER “4RT”. 87134-NN4-K10 SEAT STICKER 87136-NN4-K10 CENTRAL STICKER REAR FENDER 87135-NN4-K10 RH STICKER REAR FENDER 87137-NN4-K10 LH STICKER REAR FENDER

Honda dealer - parts numbers are available online if google for 4rt part list

I ran older mudguards on my 2015 And 300 rr especially in the wet for that reason. The new 301 and 2020 shape are better the previous ones but are quiet a bit different

You might be able to make an adapter plate to convert the new tank to the old pump