jimmyl

2015 part numbers for std rear mudguard -I think 87132-NN4-K10 STICKER “4RT”. 87134-NN4-K10 SEAT STICKER 87136-NN4-K10 CENTRAL STICKER REAR FENDER 87135-NN4-K10 RH STICKER REAR FENDER 87137-NN4-K10 LH STICKER REAR FENDER

Honda dealer - parts numbers are available online if google for 4rt part list

I ran older mudguards on my 2015 And 300 rr especially in the wet for that reason. The new 301 and 2020 shape are better the previous ones but are quiet a bit different

You might be able to make an adapter plate to convert the new tank to the old pump

I can fully understand why riders stop competing at the very top level as at some point cost/ personal commitment outweighs results/ enjoyment. The sad thing I see in recent times is that some walk away from the sport altogether. ( this Is not aimed at the 2 recent retirees but an observation over a the last few years) Not sure if they just get stale., only want to do it if they are winning or never really enjoyed it but found they where good at it and was a good parent //child thing when on the up? Having ridden for 40 plus years I could not imagine not having a bike and competing - I’ve had quiet years but never lost the bug and always has a bike in the garage to ride. I appreciate that if not winning they are not enjoying or fear of not being the best. In a much smaller scale I found it difficult as I got older to start getting beaten by younger riders or newcomers but learnt to accept it as enjoyment of riding was greater than that of being top of the results. My first bike was a TL 125 that was a bit of a shed that I went halves with big bro and paid for with paper-rounds and birthday / Christmas money . We spent time tweaking and getting back to a rideable Mount. just wondering in the modern world that this man(boy) and Machine bond is never made - or maybe I’m a bit sad and need a therapist ??

Yep if I was a better rider ???

301 is best mont to date - i was impressed when changed from 260 to 300rr bur 301 is another 20 or 30 % better again. Just the same but much better - nothing obvious but just smoother and more useable Its hard to describe but when I changed early 2020 and let a few local mont 260 riders have ago they thought i should be banned for cheating ???

As A practice thing try several rocks spaced just under bike length apart and hop onto each one dropping front wheel then going again. should help you feel how you can keep front wheel in the air with small amount of throttle

Especially with the earlier ones but less so with latter ones I found you have to keep the throttle open a bit on landing the front wheel. You can control the weight of the wheel coming down as much on the throttle as the brakes. Having ridden 4rt for a while now and on a 301 now I find I have to use the brake more as latest bikes have less engine braking . This helps though on slippery downhill cambers and drop as the front seems less weighted

Check how the sprocket lines up. sounds like wheel is out of line

As it’s virtually brand new and only 100 Miles seems strange to give it a service. i would take it it back to the dealer before ripping things to bits. once you start to mess would presume warranty starts to get fuzzy

I’ve stripped clutch several times without doing this . Maybe not correct by the book but seemed ok

Don't mess with the bike - you will spoil it, Set it to standard and then learn how to ride it, Find somebody who can show you how to get the best out of a 4rt. if nobody local search this forum for tips. Once you have got the hang of the Mont then modify anything you think is needed

None of the top boys asked for a 5 in St David's last year - if anything they wanted it harder ???

it takes weeks of planning for BTC (and other nationals /big events) (even a club trials takes a few weeks to organise ) so once the event date is committed to it is very hard to stop and start again on another date even if riders are free, land owner agrees. There are observers/officials etc to sort out again, First aid, Food van, Toilets etc etc That's without looking at the sections etc

Acting and drama can survive without Hollywood superstars but do you want to watch the am dram pantomime on a Saturday night prime tv ??

And the top boys get to show how good and how brave they are - which is good for joe public as when they are allowed back in

The top 6 / 8/ 10 how ever many want it super tough to push themselves/each other The up and coming -older past BTC rider doesn't want to hurt themselves The good center expert / older older BTC rider (sorry Dan) just want a good days sport and a national championship aimed at a slightly higher level then S3 champ. The good Local Centre riders can ride and enjoy the event without being hurt. Always going to be a compromise but Kind of works at the moment - good competition in each class and the organizer get enough riders to balance the books

Looking at the pictures and the weather I bet the top six were glad they stayed in warmer climate.. Admirations to the organizers/observers and riders for sticking it out - bad enough for one day but to have 2 days -great effort .

Maybe Is it just the different riding style now needed with a 2t - more throttle input compared to the 4rt? maybe just need to ride through it until your body adjusts when I switched to the 4rt elbows used to hurt due the torque at MRD bottom end and the “hang off the back “ riding style of the mont

Always worth a try first -one you start with drills and things you are kind of committed to drilling out and tapping as the bolts tends to swage out and go tight unless very gentle. As the bolts are steel and the casing are ally the drill can easily wander of center. Good to hear you will soon be back on the road /track/hill. PS - make sure you get the end plate with the spigot seated nice and square before doing up the little tag the offending bolts -it easy to be slight off set and then the spigot is a few mm out of line and the casing will not line up on the dowels. PPS - if not already -do the job with bike laying on its side on the ground and refill with oil before potting the casing back on - its sooooo much quicker

Might look weird but is very effective. The end flare keeps the mud off your back - something that the last design did not do -(I used to run pre 14 rear mudguards on my 15 - 260 and 300RR when wet and boggy as more effective) and the ridges help give some strength but also take the knocks first and hence protect the plastic and stickers down in the valley so maintaining appearance.

Try a sharp scriber to see if you can unwind the broken part. The snapped part may not be that tight if it hasn’t bottomed

I always aim for them to slope up a bit -thinking being when the bike leans over they then are still closer to level. If they slope down slightly then when the bike leans the slope is magnified. One disadvantage of TI/Ally footrest etc is they are hard to rectify quickly