Tr1AL

You are just one of those types who makes everything straight forward and easy , why would any one want to do that when he can search for and then fit the full Scavini system at a cost of $550.00 , buy the HRC programmable ECU for $2000.00 buy the cables and software for $1000.00 after searching for it for a year and then get Rick Wakeman to play it all until it sounds right . I just don't get it.

The sellers on ebay say your bike uses a BR7 ES I would go with what ebay says. Forget what Lampkin BETA UK says what would they know.

NGK site says none of the plugs you quoted are compatible with your bike LOL. What a ridiculous world.

Do you not mean a BPR7ES same long reach plug but the resistor type.

You have not hijacked anything what you are talking about relates to what mick mcmanus is wanting resolved.

Did you read the SCALVINI system discussion that jrsunt put on , It sounds like it will give you what you are wanting or are you on a low budget.

hanson racing on Facebook sold one on their ebay shop UK for around £450.00.

If you want less performance to soften response you need a wider bore pipe not a smaller one , this decreases back pressure and therefore lessen low end torque that makes for instant action off the bottom. Its complicated on a four stroke motor. I would recommend you read up on it before trying any amateur tuning tweeks. Honda 4rt with a BETA 4t motor grafted in? Send a message to BANYERES perhaps he may have something to help you get what you want.

How lucky we are to have the internet and people who know how to use it. konrad is the man for the job every time. Hope it does the job.

@nhuskys Brilliant. Thanks , that's what I have been waiting for.

All information is needed , actual bike model etc what is it Ducati system or Motoplat ?.Where are you USA , UK etc ?

www.sherco.com manuals 2012series.

Sell it and buy a 250 is the least amount of messing about.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DSX5PKJDLJs/?utm_source=ig_embed

A bike is what it is and then you change it to how you prefer it to be using different parts such as bars or foot rests etc and if you cannot get it to feel right no matter what you change then the only thing you can do is try another make of bike. IMO asking someone else is not helpful because everyone has different preferences.

Keeping the grey beards happy, probably the only ones that can afford to buy and also have the time to use a new trials bike at the present time.

Start it in neutral is the obvious one as Pro clutches have a tendency to drag no matter what type of oil or ATF you put in. If the bike has a KEIHIN PWK 28 then take the Jet metering block off and clean the tiny holes you see of any gunge then put a new jet block gasket in before putting it back on. Make sure the jetting is not too rich as it just soots the plug if you are not thrashing the motor regularly causing bad starting/running. In my experience the standard plugs are better than the NGK platinum in the 125 and they are better with a bigger gap like 0.7. Do not over oil the air filter and 80:1 in the tank is plenty of oil , you do not need more to be safe unless you are running it in a trial with lots of road work. Take the reed block off and put some new standard reeds in to make sure its all as it should be and be scrupulously clean while doing all the work and make sure gaskets seal properly.

https://youtu.be/9TH3osNOdBY?si=QsjThBvRpJ9lP

Yes faussy I agree .He could also try the MITAS PRO and the PIRELLI MT43 , I have not tried them but they look like Trials tyres. At club level I do not think tyres make much difference. That is also true of the bikes that people use , regular competitors know that a old Fantic 125 twinshock will beat a 300 Vertigo with the right rider on board. It makes one wonder why people bother at club level with all the expense. There is a review on instagram by an competent Australian rider and the Kenda IBEX gets a good review all round , the only exception being that the tyre folds when pushed hard.

Michelin , Dunlop D803 GP , IRC Rear . Anything else is not a serious tire/tyre for the sport at this present time

I have not seen any specs for that bike.

www.tricksinthesticks.co.uk or www.inchperfecttrials.co.uk These have bikes to hire or take your own and pay less. It is harder than it looks but don't be put off . if you stick at it and put some time in it is a good cheap sunday out (Entries cost around £20 )and there are plenty of trials events around where you are. Find events @ www.tmxnews.co.uk/ whats on this week-end. Southend & District MCC has a trial on 30th NOV @ Poles wood (NEAR THE SECRET BUNKER), Ongar Rd ,Kelvedon Hatch . CM15 0LA Starts 10.30am finish around 15.30pm Riders will be there around 9.00am if you want to ask people questions about bikes and how to get started in the sport . Too find the venue look for a day-glo orange triangle at the side of the road that points to the entrance. Its free to watch and go in for spectators. There is usually a burger van at most trials events if you want to eat/drink there. Most important thing in Trials is a well prepared bike ( Handle bar and bar lever position makes a lot of difference plus I found that oddly footrest type and position made a big difference also) . Tyre pressures are very important in the newest tyres you can afford the best being Michelin X11 . Pressures for mud 5 psi Front 3/3.5 psi Rear and for riding on stone and Rock or dry conditions 6psi Front 4 psi Rear those being the usual starting points . Others will no doubt chime in with their recommendations.

The 4RT 301RR makes a pathetic 16.3 HP , 1 HP more than a VERTIGO 125 but the 301RR puts out 15.1 ft/lbs torque , where as the VERTIGO 125 makes 8.8 ft/lbs . With that much torque output of the 301 it may be better leaving it with the stock clutch spring set up. 4RT 260 makes 15.6 HP and 13.4 ft/lbs torque

Yes I am sure it is , use whatever works to stop the loss of air.

It is a lost in translation thing . https://www.trialsuk.co.uk/puncture-repair/Apico-puncture-Repair-Strips---Tubeless-Tyres---Pack-30