old trials fanatic

That is the whole point of NOT allowing twinshocks or pre65 bikes to have discs fitted !! As soon as you fit discs you increase the stopping power so what was really difficult becomes relatively easy. One guess what then happens to the sections at the next trial? OK if you use your twinshock or pre65 in the same class as modern bikes then i have no problem with whatever mods you want to fit. But and it's a very significant but. If you ride in a Classic event then NO DISCS should be allowed for the reason stated above. You have to draw a line somewhere and following on from the advent of the monoshock disc brakes were the next big influence on turning Trials into what they have become. If thats what you want then i'm with Big John and many others Woodie also comes to mind. Buy a modern bike and ride in modern Trials. Or just use your disc braked twinshock in Modern Trials and not enter Classic ones. The local clubs in my center dont allow discs and clearly state so in the regs. Saying that they frown on hydraulic clutches too but then again only know of one bike so equiped, a 350 Triumph twin, and he's usually the only entry in his class so i suppose until someone protests then he gets away with it.

Thats the thing John i dont know if the Commando sliders, mine are the ones off a disc braked Commando as they were what i had lying around, are longer or shorter than the Norton Roadholders. I know there are long and short Roadholders. I've seen the alloy ones for Norton sliders on offer on e bay but again there are no diamensions quoted and i dont want to get some only to find that they are miles out and i will have wasted my money. Only other alternative is to take the vernier along to the next trial. If not then the Classic off road show is on at Malvern on 17th Feb so hopefully there will be some traders who have some i can measure up. Just wondered if anybody had any TL or TY ones fitted and had any diamensions. Thanks for the reply anyway BJ

The "project" is slowly coming on, far too slowly to tell the truth, and i am now looking for some front mudguard stays. Now in the "good old days" you just went down to your local trials shop and sorted through the mudguard stays they had on the shelf and found a set that fitted or were close enough to be made to fit. Those halcyon day are long gone. Nobody seems to stock anything nowadays just "will order it for you". thats ok i suppose if you are wanting std bits for a std bike but when building a pre 65 "special" it just aint that easy. The bike has Norton Commando sliders and i was thinking of trying eithe TL125 or TY175 stays as they look sort of what i am looking for after perusing Millars catalogue. Problem is there are no diamensions in the catalogue and when i phoned they were their usual "helpful selves" So does anybody know any diamensions for either of the above stays? My forks are about 108mm between slider mounting holes which are M8 and 35mm centers. The top of the "hoop" on the inside i.e. the mudguard needs to be approx 165 mm from the mounting hole centers. Obviously i doubt if i will get anything spot on but will have to modify whatever i can get. So any suggestions please?

Use 340 mm ones on mine. Seems fine and this length is widely available. A lot depends on the length of your forks and the steering angle you are trying to aquire. One other thing to be aware of is if you go too long the chain will try to saw its way through the swing are spindle

And in the stone cottage lives a certain well known trials rider celebrity

Burton bike Bits do an alloy clutch basket for the B40 however i wouldnt bother as on a trials bike you hammer the clutch and i dont know but a doubt that the alloy one would last any longer than a std one. There has been quite a few gearboxs on e bay of late. did you not see them and put a bid in? C & D in Birmingham are quite good for unit BSA parts http://pages.eidosnet.co.uk/~canddautos/index.html as are Brit Bits http://www.britbits.co.uk/ Will cost you though. sometimes better to buy a complete engine although WD ones are rare. Best answer i can give is keep your eyes on e bay as there was a lot of NOS WD parts on ther recently Oh yes you can not easily change the kickstart over to the splined one. Need to bush and machine the crankcases and swap some of the gearbox parts. More trouble than its worth. C15 F parts fit and some of the lateer B25 bits can be made to fit also.

Totally agre. Dave Renham does everything for Bultaco including seats and covers. Think i've even seen a seat cover of his on evil bay. Support the guy as will then be there when you need other parts. No connection othere than a satisfied customer. Daves prices are usually better than Millers, parts are better quality than Millers and at least he's civil when you speak to him (unlike SHM Himself). You cant put everything on a website. Ring him i'm sure he will be able to get one if he hasnt got one in stock.

I've said it before and i'll say it again. 3 new rear tyres are more benefit than a fancy pair of rear shocks. Better to fit a pair of Betors and get two new rear tyres than one pair of alloy Falcons. Of course thats assuming you are spending your OWN money

Err there are a couple of gearboxs on there as well. Good luck

I run 170cc 5W in mine with 45mm preload. Then again i am 1) a fat ******* 2) they are fitted to a B40 which is possibly a bit heavier than an OSSA However http://hem.passagen.se/ossa/ is a site that might be of help? 170cc works in my 199B also and they are Betor forks just the same as the OSSA but whatever.

try 01543685430 or http://www.inmotiontrials.com/ Look under suspension within the marque links.

On e bay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BSA-RUPERT-RATIO-Uni...1QQcmdZViewItem

To be honest B40's are a doddle to work on. Then again thats easy to say when youve rebuilt a few The best "manual" i have found is the Rupert Ratio unit single engine manual which covers C15, B40, B25, B44, B50 etc. Lots of illustrations and tips from a bloke who has rebuilt more BSA unit singles than the rest of us ever will. Normally comes up on evil bay, although i couldnt see one when i just looked, or you could try Amazon. Published by Panther Publishing the ISBN number is 0 - 9535098 - 1 - 8 Well worth the money think it was about

Yes he actually goes later this week i think but has sold his business including premises to a new owner. Dont know anything about the new owner as yet except that for the short term the apparent intention is to continue as normal. What happens then is anybodies guess. Lets hope it carries on as previous but if not then i think most people will know where to go just have to wait and see. If anybody knows any more please keep everybody appraised especially with the Scottish Pre65 classic only effectively 3 months away

Thought you had the bike, the original that is? Dabster has some piccys of a Vesty replica he had or built. The only other pics i know of are in Classic Spanish Trials Bikes. Now you have got me confused. Did you sell Vestys old bike or are you finally getting around to "restoring" it?

Scorpa 3 :agree: As i only ride Classic and Twinshock and had a break from the early 80's till 06 then i sort of missed the free for all time which peole have been posting about. I didnt even realise there were 3 sets of rules Seems a ridiculous situation to me. OK run Club Trials, Classics etc basically as the organising club sees fit. As long as the riders and observers know which rules the competition is running to then all hunky dory. However a British Championship Round is a "feeder" to WTC and the two should surely be run under the same rules. Now i've no idea if this is right but i thought the FIM was the World governing body and the ACU came ultimately under their auspices. Therefore by definition surely the Championship rounds organised by the ACU should fall into line with the FIM rules? As others have said i suppose ultimately it doesnt matter which rules you ride to , ok i have previously stated MY preference, but ALL Championships should run to the same one and there should be a published and recognised / agreed period of stability with a firm review date acknowledged and agreed for sometine in the future. Four years seem ish to me but whatever just dont change from year to year it's daft.

Non stop is eaisier to observe, means sections can return to being more "natural" and less dangerous, reduce queues, open up more land for use as trials venues, require better rider skills like throttle control dynamic balance coordination etc and most important are the way that Real Trials riders ride Now i'm gonna get it

Sorry havent got any pics but will try to explain. 1. Mill the spindle mounting off the new alloy sliders. Then machine turn the new alloy sliders into a slug. By that i mean like a tube with a smooth outer. You can and have to go very very thin on the wall thickness here so measure the internal dia as well as the outer dia. the idea is that they will be an interference fit into the existing sliders once they are machined. 2. Machine the existing sliders to a smooth bore interference fit on the now machined new sliders. You will be using the existing spindle mountings etc of the existing sliders so all the machining is internal. Dont forget the hole at the bottom to take the damper rod securing bolt. 3. Warm up the existing sliders and cool the new sliders. Apply loctite and insert the new sliders into the old outers. MAKE SURE YOU GET IT RIGHT HERE AS YOU ONLY GET ONE SHOT AT IT. 4. If you havent made sure the drain holes lined up before you assembled the sliders, best option, then you will need to redrill new drain holes at this point. 5. Now flush out the sliders to get rid of any remaining swarf, VERY IMPORTANT, as if you dont the stantions will be damaged as will the sliders. 6. Refit seals and off you go. You might have to get seal retainers made up but most just have an alloy outer turned to take fork gaiters to retain the original look. The reason a lot of people go for Norton sliders is they have a bit more "meat" on them than the Triumph ones. On the other hand the Triumph ones are steel and do retain the original appearance. It is fairly straight forward but also very easy to trash a perfectly good pair of forks. Thats all down to how good your machinist is. Good luck

:agree: Orrible. "common mod" I've never seen one done like this. and why? the normal back end works fine. Would cost good money to put right but i bet some bozo bids over

Frame wise if you want the best get a Macdonald cub frame. totalshells right about the James frame that Alan does i've got one. Piccy below but remember it's only work in progress so theres still a lot of work to be done so dont take the p*** The forks that are fitted, if you can see from the photo, are Marzocchi inside Norton outers as described above along with billet alloy yokes also as the above post. You pays your money and takes your choice. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/NVT1...ames271206b.jpg

The Italkit shown is not the same one that Dave Renham sells. Be interested to know where you can buy it though.

Totalshell is right :agree: however a lot depends on the rules and regs applicable to the Trials you ride in. A cheaper alternative is to use Betor forks either Bultaco, Ossa or Montesa. get them turned down so that they fit into your existing bottoms, dont forget to line up or re drill the drain holes though. Re the yokes most over here use Billet alloy ones but a cheaper alternative is to use Montesa or Ossa ones. The Montesa are particularly good as on some years the clamp bolts are inboard of the fork legs and this satisfys some Clubs over here. One thing to be aware of when trying to use yokes other than the billet alloy ones is will the fork legs be parallel to the yoke spindle and headstock? otherwise the front end goemetry and wheelbase will be affected. Good luck and a very worthwhile mod. Youll be wanting a 230cc conversion and the crankcases modifying next ?

Know it's a bit obvious but Talon make them why not go direct New contact for other Frantic parts as seen in Classic Dirt Bike www.bobwrightmotorcycles.co.uk

Greeves i am just sooooooooooooo jealous of your collection That Model 49 is just drop dead gorgeous. Keep up the good work. Just shows how it should be done. We are not worthy Merry Christmas from Derbyshire

It's a common mod and well worth it Scotty :agree: Shouldnt be a problem with twinshock class as long as you use the drum brake. They only get in a tizz if you fit a disc to a bike not originally fitted with one. Saying that there are quite a few Hondas and Fantics out there that have sprouted discs. I even noticed a TLR with a hydraulically operated drum recently. Not too sure how that got through Just have to ring round the breakers mate. TY250 mono forks and good wheels are getting rare. Even known people buy a complete bike off e bay just for the front end and sell the rest to recoup some of their money. Thing to watch out for is the drum, they crack, and the front rim which look ok on the outside but corrode badly from the inside so have the front tyre off BEFORE you buy. Oh yes the front Z spokes are no longer available so unless you can get a local wheelbuilder to make you some youre stuck. Worth doing though as it is an improvement