mcman56

The threads that hold one of the M8 helicoils are stripped. They are pretty close to an M10 so I would have to go to M12 for a good thread. There is not a lot of meat around the hole and I may not be able to open the skid plate holes that far either. If I drilled through for bolts and nuts, the far side is not flat to accept a nut. With some creativity, it may be possible to make a special shaped spacer to go between the nut and uneven shape but it would not be easy. I wonder if it will need to be filled with weld and redrilled? Based on the design, I doubt I'm the first with this problem.

I did a little more research. If you go to the Vertex catalog for the UK, they list GG200 pistons by sizes. The part numbers imply a letter but I don't know if that corresponds to the GG letters. http://www.gb.vertexpistons.com/

Do the rear mounting holes on a 2008 Rev3 have helicoils from the factory (steel thread type coils)? Mine has them but I can not get them really tight. On one side, it will get fairly tight and then the bolt threads strip. On the other side, the threaded coil worked its way out over time. Is there a solution?

These people sell many Keihin carb kits that come with needles. They also have a cute ad. Maybe they can help. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-TL125-KEYSTER-CARB-KIT-1976-/110783071864?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19cb2f8678

After cleaning up the piston, I found it marked with 63.950 but no letters. This matches up well with my bore measurements. I don't see letters on the cylinder. A previous owner replaced the piston so could Vertex sell pistons direct without letters? Anyway, it is my buddy's bike and he is ordering through Lewisport so I passed the information on.

I'm measuring the top end of a well worn 200 pro but am getting a cylinder ID of 2.519" or 63.982 mm. I was expecting something about 0.0015" over 64 mm. Does anyone have specs on piston/ cylinder sizes for this model? The parts list shows B, C and D pistons but says nothing about size. Thanks!

I just put a 250 top end on a 2008 200 and am getting a POP/ POP/ POP when chopping the throttle. It is sort of like knock but I'm not sure what to make of it or what it is telling me. I think a small or occasional amount of this is quite normal on most bikes. Are 250 Betas more prone to this? Raising the needle to full rich helped but some of it is still there. Otherwise it runs OK. The plug looks OK. Starting and idling are good. This Mikuni has a 5C23 needle, 2.0 slide, 145 main and 30 pilot. Is the 250 needle or slide different? There is also a 66 stamped in the carb body on the engine side.

I like that idea. However, the ID of the bush is about 0.010 bigger than the pilot drill for an M10 x 1.0. Did it turn out to be a fairly loose fit on the bolts? Even though there was play of the OEM bolts in the bushes, there was enough variation in the all parts that there was no free play after full assembly. If they do loosen up, I'll try threading. Thanks

The sprocket to hub fit on my Reflex has a fair amount of play so I assumed it was all in the bushes. I'm in the process of replacing them but when I check the bolt to bush fit, they are not very snug. There is maybe 0.01 play. How tight are these when new? Should I be replacing the bolts also?

I found one for an evo but not Rev3. I wonder if they are the same? It is kind of odd to do that with a straight edge. I have always seen solder.

Does Beta specify a squish clearance for the Rev 3? They do offer base gaskets in different thicknesses.

They are required on all public lands in CA, National Forests and State/ County Parks. Most riding areas do inspect for spark arrestors and will ticket you if you are riding without one. Most also want to see the "ÜS Forest Service Approved Spark Arrestor" marking. I have not seen any differenece in performance with and without the spark arrestors I have used but you do have to keep the screen type clean. The US TLR200 Reflex came with a turbine type. Is your TR77 a screen or turbine type arrestor? Maybe you should sell it to yellow_cad.

It depends on the shape of your muffler. These come in different shapes. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CBE-EX9173/ Supertrapp makes some clamp ons https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SUPERTRAPP3S One from a modern bike may also fit http://www.lewisportusa.com/parts_muffler.htm Some people replace the entire muffler with one containing a spark arrestor.

I find Beta brakes to have less feel than the Sherco AJP. Does anyone make soft/ organic pads for Betas. EBC made soft pads for Sherco but I don't see them for Beta.

My TLR200 was kind of similar. Turning in the idle speed screw about 1/3 to 1/2 turn before starting works. After a couple of minutes idling, it can be turned down. The choke on this carb has nothing to produce a high idle. It simply blocks air flow to increase vacuum at the jets.

For slow tight turns, 428 with 13/72 seems OK with an 18 tooth engine sprocket.

I see that the Rev3 has a steel head gasket. Is it assembled dry? The old base gasket looks like it has some type of blue sealant lines built into the gasket. Does this face up or down? Is it a good idea to grease the other side? Does the big ports in the head gasket face towards the back with the small holes towards the front?

There could be a carb issue making it run out of fuel. Dirt floating around or maybe a sticky float valve could do that. I would clean the carb. While it is off, drain some gas out of the petcock to verify that it is flowing to the carb OK. Running some WD40 or oil through the throttle cable may loosen that up. A white spark plug would support a running out of fuel diagnosis. But, since it is intermittent, a dark plug does not disprove. An air leak is possible but I have not heard of them causing intermittent problems. You could inspect the intake area for leaks and possibly try spraying on some soapy water to look for bubbles. Does it ever bog when opening the throttle?

A sticking throttle does not operate on its own but can prevent the motor from slowing down after you shut off the throttle. Is that what happens? A cable routing issue can make the throttle open when you turn the handlebars. Under what conditions will it take off?

Can the top end (cylinder & piston)of a Rev3 be removed with the motor in the frame? If not, what does it take?

I had only seen references to the mod on 250 and bigger bikes. If it does work on the smaller engines, maybe I have another cause of generally lean. I even pressure tested the bottom end looking for air leaks but found nothing. Does the 125 also use the same size carb?

Where can I find a specification for ring end gap for a 250? In particular, what is the service limit? I assume, a minimum gap would be about 0.015". 0.050 would exceed the service limit but what about 0.030"?

Can anyone tell me what the factory float setting is for a Rev3 200? I have set the float height to the Billy T spec but have been having all sorts of lean running issues. This means too lean with a 35 pilot and needle full rich. I suspect that the 200 has less vacuum and struggles to lift the fuel the extra distance. I raised the level some and it is now OK with the richer settings but I would like to get back to the original settings. Unfortunately, I did not record the original float height. I sort of remember the tangs being slightly above parallel to the gasket surface. Is that correct?

I recently had to replace the stator on my Rev3 200. On the first ride out there was some very serious knocking...at this point I don't remember if it was off throttle or if it was also bogging on throttle. Raising the needle two steps to full rich resolved the severe problem. (This is also about the time it got hot and very dry in northern CA so would include a change to summer gas.) Now I get some fairly minor repeat knocking and a little rolling of engine speed when cutting the throttle. Cutting throttle, it feels a little lean but applying throttle there is no bog or knock. It runs OK but not great. I had a Sherco 2.9 that would knock just once sometimes when chopping the throttle but this feels different. I believe the previous owner ran race gas. I have gone up two sizes on the pilot jet and retarded timing 2mm back to the stock setting with little effect. I had also fooled with the carb when diagnosing the stator issue. Various float level settings seem to have little effect. The idle mixture screw seems to have less effect than I expect but I have no experience with Betas breathing through Mikunis. So...could this just be an expected result of heat and summer gas? Could it be something else? What are the symptoms of a bad crank seal on the stator side?

How does it idle? Can you get a nice slow steady idle?