pindie

I don't know the numbers but have you tried looking on the trials and tribulations site? They list parts and the numbers. Once you know the numbers get them from someone like Hayley Bearings at a fraction of the cost and get double seal ones if possible. Use Silkolene water proof red grease when you reassemble and it will last ages before servicing again. See here http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_66&products_id=909

You have a big piston which needs a good push to get it to go over tdc. Find tdc and then kick it over from just after tdc. This way the piston will be travelling at good speed by the time it comes back up and it won't fire back. Don't go drilling anything at all. If it needed it they would have done it from new as part of the plate. It sounds technique to me.

There you go then. Use a gearbox oil!

Contact a dealer as they will tell you exactly what to use and connect up.

I'd love to watch you check that one out!

The Scorpa is such a nice looking bike. Well done and welcome. Ride, ride, ride, ride and ride again is the key. Training obviously helps and don't be afraid to ask as trials seems to do things differently. One thing you do notice though is the different way is the better way when you ride something else. Trilas should be compulsory and then most bike nuts would be much more skilled.

Gloved thumb up the bum, er sorry pipe. That does not sound any better.

Had both but I prefer my Beta. You need to try both though to know what you like more. They all have "issues" but you are buying to ride not fix. Worry about fixing it when the time comes. Enjoying the riding is the most important bit.

You can cable tie the springs to keep the pressure on whilst fitting.

Try starting without the choke. It may be rich enough already and this time of year ambient temp is much better. It will always be a zingy bike though as that's a busy piston in there.

I use expensive but brilliant oil that saves you doing the "clutch mod". It's Putoline Nano Trans. I use 500ml per change so 2 per bottle. It improves over time as it works it's magic but my Beta is super slick now where before on ATF it was rough. It lasts loads longer between changes as well. You'll know when to change as the slickness goes and it changes colour in the window from pale brown to merky brown (this is about 5 trials and 5 other riding weekends though). A quick change and away you go with the second 500ml. My advice is keep ATF in auto boxes and steering pumps and use gearbox oil in a gearbox.

XR 600. Cheap, short wheel base, very mellow power and easy to maintain.

Where are you based? I've not had any snags ordering anything for my 2007 rev3. I keep the most obvious things on the shelf at home but when I smashed my clutch perch and MC a new one was ordered and turned up next day. I have only replaced worn out or parts broken by me. Nothing has gone wrong and the bike has been 100% better than my previous Gas Gas for durability.

Slacken the gripper right off so the sloping pieces can separate more. That's all I did.

If you wheelie down hill it won't happen.

Also worth seeing if you like the weight and power.

As long as it only drips a tad at extreme angles don't panic. That's normal. It should not leak on the stand or when level though. If it does you need to tweak it.

Did you use the resin for fibre glass with the carbon fibre cloth or did you bake it? Is it really stiff and sharp? Watch your inner thighs if you launch it matey. You don't want to end up in the news as "trials rider loses leg in failed hill climb". That would be a bummer.

You lucky spud!

Lap in the float valve with a dab of toothpaste for good contact/seal. Yes it is pinned at the top.

Free it off by just riding it for ten mins - point the bike in a safe direction, push off and tap into gear. Ride around until it frees off. Once free ride as normal until you have had enough. Get home and change the gear box oil for Putoline Nano Trans oil. One litre will last you a year so it work out ok cost wise and you will not have clutch issues again. I used to use atf and light gear oil but always had issues with sticking. Nano trans has solved all of the issues with an oil change (for pukka stuff) and not using what is essentially power steering fluid. I have not had to do the clutch mod, sand anything or strip my gear box/clutch to make it work right - I just changed the oil for the right stuff.

I'd just search for a new one. Repairs can be several and then you end up buying new anyway. Unless you can find a very good repair shop that is....

If you are leaking fuel you need the carb set up guide.

He was excellent on mine. Shipped and returned in one week. A year later and no issues, leaks etc. He also replaced the lower bearing for me and returned it with new seals for assemble. He is your man.

My 2005 raga rep did this just before the shift drum broke up and wrecked my gearbox and cases. If it sounds more mechanical than just cogs with a lack of wear I'd think about a strip or even just and oil drop to,check for metal particles. From memory mine felt tighter in 5th and sixth.