4stroke

Well said Roger, spot on!

Has anyone fitted one of the replacement carbs that are now advertised? Carb wear can to be a real problem on these older machines. They range from

It mostly depends on your own ability or the level at which you want to compete. I have both bikes and seem to have better results on the 200. But when the going gets tough I do miss the extra grunt of the 250. Get a 200 and spend a little money on improving the ride!

I no longer have the bike but I,m sure the brackets were removed and the choke cable was shortened back to near the carb.

My steering lock had been removed by the previous owner and I modified the choke with a shorter cable. Look at Birkett Motosport website for further mod's.

Water ballast in tractor tyres definitely used for added traction.

The large nut you have removed from the crankcase top tightens up a wedge nipping the adjuster in position. The spring loaded flexi guide takes up the slack and the chain adjustment should be automatic when this nut is loosened. If your adjuster is free to move up and down but won't tension the chain then it has reached the limit of it's travel because the chain is now too long due to wear or the fixed and flexi chain guides are worn or both! Some people carry out the chain tensioning operation with the engine ticking over.

TLR more powerful but Scorpa 125 easier to ride with better suspension, better brakes, quicker steering and much lighter!

Just received one in the post and only checked with ruler but as near as damit 26mm inside diameter measured at the silencer end.

I recall testing various sizes of 'bottles' on my 200 cota way back in the 80's. Rubbish, but looked a bit trick.(or silly, may be!)

I purchased some bumper film via ebay to cover side panels etc. Works very well but a pig to apply to large area's without creases. The add had a picture of an Aston Martin but I can't remember the name of it though!

You won't be buying one then Nigel?

Oz you mentioned that you moved your riding position onto the balls of your feet. I have always ridden this way and because of this I have never used a back brake as i cannot reach it. I have always found that I can move around on the bike with much more freedom with my feet in this position and my body weight is also further to the rear assisting grip. I must explain that I also only ride Tlr's now and use the engine braking of the fourstroke and even in my younger days it was a Seeley!

I find Betor's are very good for the price. There were some on ebay recently,

I'm not too good at this game. Is there a twinshock version?

You tend to find that the original bits do take some beating. Clever chap Mr Honda!

Must admit I was tempted, they do look tidy! I have been using a WES with the short Back box for a while and find it very good. I think the motor breathes easier but is a little noisier.

Get a 250 front hub they work a lot better. Forget the back brake, use the engine braking!

Spacer face to rim outer edge measured on mine at 70mm. Does this ring a bell at all?

Seems ok above tickover and checked pilot circuit a few times, it's as if the choke is on, but it's not. Air filter clean and new plug!

Lots of compression, valve clearances correct!

Very strange but my tlr250 developed a very lumpy tick over after my last trial. Sounds more like a 8T than a 4T. I have cleaned carb and put in a new plug. (Still same) Swapped carb and flushed tank etc (Same). Swapped entire electrics (Same). Checked all timings. (No joy). I am starting to feel a bit stupid now. Any ideas?

Forgive my ignorance but if the pilot jet is too small, how does excess fuel get into the exhaust?

You know how the spray and muck is sucked onto the back of a vehicle, all of this and splashing from the wheels ends up on the bike. But I still prefer using a rack to a trailer!

The only problem I have found with a rack is that the bike gets filthy on the way to the trial!