b40rt

My whole selection of oils are ATF !

No injury but hard to explain to the passing dog walkers. Trying to clean a tight practice section with small round stones at the start of a steep climb. Kept lossing a dab or two, determined to clean it gave it a real handful, wheel spun, gripped, bike went right over my head and ended about 6' up a tree wedged in the fork of two branches. Took some time and help to retrieve.

There should be an adjuster on the of the carb, will probably have a black rubber cover on it, ease the cover up, making sure that you dont pull the cable with it. Turn the adjuster anti clockwise looking down to take out the slack. Before starting the bike open and close the throttle and make sure you can hear the slide clunk as it closes. If ok push the cover back down.

Adjustable wench !

I think I might have the original book that came with it, more like a workshop manual if memory serves.

I think that is a very accurate assessment of the KT. Must be a few of them kicking about this part of the world as I seem to remember 4/5 at the time. My one was very reliable and was used to commute as well as compete. I would be interested to try one one with modern tires, rear shocks etc. The only problem I had was it ran out of sparks during a very damp period, the cure at the time was to put the CDI unit somewhere warm for a few days. As you say the forks were not a strong point, I recall that sometimes they would kick back for no apparent reason, usually sending you off in the wrong direction. Do you use the chain oiler ? I doubt it as it was fantastic for spraying the stuff everywhere, or not coming out at all. Do you think it will ever achieve classic status? Ross

What is the ambient temperature ?

Try hiring a puller.

Strip and clean carb ?

How do you like the KT ? Not a bike that I found to be exceptional in any department, but still not a bad bike.

Take the plug out and kick it over in case flooded. New plug.

Check out Kamasa for ball end allen keys, not snap-on, but ok for most jobs.

If you mean Shamano. Brake works conventionally, gears by pushing the lever up or down - Sir. But you can change down and brake at the same time - Sir

Many years ago, popped a wheely and came off the back, jumped back on again hitting my right shin on the footrest. Then proceeded to go half way through a garage door, just for show! Still have a lump on my shin that I can flex, as apparently the membrane that hold the muscle in had ruptured.

have a look at the picture, the first part of the movement is the clutch, second brake.

Drill two small holes at opposite side and underneath the shell. Use a good quality punch to drift the shell out. I personally wouldn't use this method on alloy frames.

Lemonade crate will do instead of a bike stand.

This works if bearings not to tight. Boiling water pored over casings is the Haynes recommended way to get blind bearings out.

Not many like this anymore. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HONDA-TL125-Immacula...%3A1|240%3A1318

I have a box that goes in the back of the car with a set of basic tools that I never take out in the garage (in case I forget to put them back in again) which also includes trailer spare wheel, trailer spare hub, tubes, 2 stroke, links and chain, air filter, condensors etc etc

Still need to us the rim locks as they creep, if not so fast.

Really clever, looks a bit clumsy at the moment but I sure they are working on that. Could be particularly useful for riders with ankle injuries and restricted movement.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=23822

Is that down by the river, a guy on a Bultaco passed me down there as I slowed and did exactly the same as you, he landed it but bent both footrests, then bounced over the bars.

They look in control. Easy when you know how.