stecks

Done Good Luck!!!

The Alpina has lights - if you could find out how they did it on the Alpina that might help...? I think I can see something attached to the brake pedal on this photo? This image seems to show a brake light fitted via a series of levers and pulleys... whatever makes it work I guess. If you ride it off road they will probably get smashed anyway - they would if I tried to ride it... Good luck

I would think a positive 'can do' attitude, rather than negative and unsure. The sort of thing that only really comes with experience, and practice.

looks like a fake to me...

keep at it

Three Months!!! Are they so fickle these bikes that the warranty only extends for three months... Some cars have a lifetime warranty or 100,000 miles... That kickstart ratchet pawl sounds like a design flaw to me.

Sorry. Not been on for a while. I am no expert, but I suspect the Explorer didn't use a battery, perhaps to keep the weight (and the expense) down... and so the extra wires may have run the lights directly...? Can you put a meter on the wires in question to see what output they are giving with the motor running and perhaps work it out from there? The diagram I posted shows a battery in the system. A steady feed through a switch, through the bulb and down to earth should put a bit of light on the matter... It would need a headlinght, a tail light, and a brake light switch. Could these three be fed by the three extra feeds? Unless anyone else has any suggestions...?

Hope this doesn't appear to be thread hijacking, but it raises a few issues for me. I understand there are thousands of trials bikes out there, and a few are bound to go wrong. Are some more prone to faults than others? Or are some bikes not looked after as well as they should? If someone invests a small fortune in a nearly new bike, you wouldn't expect metal shavings to be accumulating in the oil...? Is there a set of reliability scores for the different bikes available, or are they all much of a muchness when it comes to reliability? I hear the Monts are reliable, but expensive... How do the others compare? I have an interest. Although I don't ride currently, I am considering a low key return (after a number of years) as soon as the new house is sorted...

Really enjoyed that slideshow. Thanks. Looks as though it was a marvellous day out. Lots of smiles. Nothing silly, and I bet there was a winner. That's what trials are all about for me. Now then. How much is in that Piggy Bank...

I seem to recall a similar event - perhaps a demonstration - many moons ago - with riders ascending the long straight steps at the back of Rochdale Town Hall... or am I dreaming...?

will this help...? Peter

...it is a long time ago now, but I seem to recall that the OSSA had an application of what looked like clear silicone - was that available when OSSA first appeared...??? at the rear end of the flywheel cover, presumably to stop water ingress from the spinning drive sprocket? I also recall cutting a small vee in the bottom of the flywheel side cover to let the water out - it seemed impossible to stop it getting in...

does this help...? OSSA Wiring Diagram its a start if it isn't quite right... Peter

Not sure if this might help...? scroll down a bit also here although the free download link doesn't seem to work...

Looks good. Not too sure about this aspiration...

spirits...

Try this

I used to ride an OSSA (I know, I was young...) and it developed an intermittent cut out fault. I was lucky, I found it fairly soon. One of the cables fed a spade connector on the Motoplat HT Module (coil?), and it had a moulded plastic shroud over the push on spade connector. This (copper coloured, brass looking) spade connector had snapped inside its plastic shroud. The shroud held it in place for a time, and as the engine revved, the contact could make or break as it felt the need. My Dad was an electrician and he suggested following every cable, and checking for continuity using a meter. We did this and found that the feed to this spade connector was intermittent. It would make a break depending on movement of the cable, and it ran OK for a short while until perhaps vibration caused the metal to part. Try a continuity multimeter (one with a buzzer or a light) on all the cables and see if you can break the continuity by bending and twisting cables. You will just have to be methodical and eliminate all cables. Hope this helps.

I heard the music at the start but I was so impressed with the vid that I didn't hear it after a while. Love the walk off ending. I can neither ride nor make vids... but I enjoyed yours. Thanks for posting

You could try fitting a thick insole inside (both) boots. This would raise your feet above the offending fold of leather. If there isn't enough room for your toes with the thick insoles, try heel raises, again in both boots, to keep you level. I would also get hold of some Chiropody (Podiatry) felt. This is 5mm or 7mm thick felt with a sheet of adhesive on one side. You could cut out a shape about 3 inches in diameter, with chamfered edges, with a 'cavity' cut out on the inside to protect your ankle bone. With dry skin, you would stick this pad directly onto your skin to protect the area and then use stretch surgical tape to hold the pad in place, and finally carefully pull your sock on to help hold it all in place. I suspect that raising your foot position, and protecting your ankle bone should do the trick. You would have to fit a new pad each time you rode, but eventually, the leather should stop rubbing. There's nothing worse than boots that rub. I guess you are just unlucky that the fold aligns with your ankle bone. Try the thick insole or heel raise first, it may raise you up enough to help. Peter

When I was young and good looking, I used to go caving in wellies. We used to drill holes in the bottom of the wellies for the very same reason. I think I'd give modern LM silicones a chance first, and if that doesn't work, and the Lampkins think its a good idea, then drill a hole - or could you fix a brass drain point and a short length of plastic pipe to vent any moisture away from where the mud accumulates? This advice malarkey is so easy when its not my bike...

Careful routing would help, and perhaps something like this if the springs are either unavailable or expensive...? Link Not sure if 10mm is large enough? perhaps someone does larger ID bore sizes? Hope helpful Peter

...it may not infringe copyright, but it certainly compromises treating observers with respect... What's the story behind the altercation? Does anybody know...? Perhaps he deserved it...?

I Googled 'putting motorcycles into long term storage' and there was quite a lot, including this one including this one Regards

before the sensible ideas come in... you could try one of these...?