woody

If they use proper sections outdoors then I think Doug has every chance of lifting another title. If they continue the direction they were going last year however and use more and more indoor sections outdoors, then it will undoubtedly go to one of the Spaniards. I hope, purely for the sake of the true spirit of trials, that they use natural terrain as they should. Keep the man-made sections where they belong, in the arena. Outdoors should be a test of rider against the differing terrain of different venues and whatever conditions nature throws at them with the weather, not a test of someone's ability to slam up and down 6 foot steps over and over again. Dougie can still give anyone a run on proper sections.

There were 3 alternatives as I recall. Shirty did one, Talon did one and a Midlands company called Gateway (I think) did one. None were very impressive. You're better off finding a genuine Pinky Yam one as they work... Ellastone off-road may have some as they are often breaking Yams. Don't know about any weight difference but why worry? I think people get overly concerned about the weight issue. Even if it is a few pounds difference it isn't really going to be noticeable riding sections, it's mainly in our minds.

Thanks for that. With the 9 tooth gearbox sprocket fitted to my bike, that equates to about a 45 rear tooth so I'll give that a go as a starting point. PS Dirtrider, is it you that rides your Seeley in the Scarbourough? 3 day trial in August (organised by Bill Pye I think) and which one of our local riders, Bob Greenhough, also rides in. He mentioned he had tried a Seeley with a 250 conversion at that trial - would that be yours?

Just about to order some Falcons myself as the Seeley is now running around the garden at last. The shock angle is very similar to the Majesty and I'm running 60lb springs on that and they work very well (I'm 110kg before being kitted up and have to lose some), although on the Yam, the bottom shock mounts are further forward of the rear spindle than on the Seeley as I lengthened the Yam swingarm, so that may make a difference. I'll have to see what he thinks. Another question now - How many teeth are you all running on the gearbox and rear wheel sprockets on your Seeleys. The rear sprocket that came with my bike is 48T. Seems big, especially as the gearbox sprocket is 9T.

Yes, I've seen that carb body too. Also showed me a pure magnesium mikuni carb once and the difference in weight from a normal one was incredible. Not to mention the hand cut super-light gear cogs. Luvverly stuff...

Nice Gripper. I rebuilt one to look like that a few years ago, along with a 350. Sold them both but should have kept them as they were immaculate. Prefered the MAR to ride though so they went. So the mythical man in a Barcelona warehouse is no longer myth - he exists. I've heard this story on a few occassions over the years but no-one knew of his whereabouts, or even whether he existed. If you come accross any MAR front exhuast pipes let me know as mine have all had it and I haven't been able to source any (1974/5 chrome version) Original alloy mudguards would be nice too, along with the original type front stays. I've also had my moments of weeping and envy thinking about who got all that stuff when the factories folded. Still do....

Nice job on the bike. If your TL points cover doesn't turn up, try Ellastone Offroad (advertise in TMX under spares) as they have a lot of Honda spares. They often have the odd 200 TLR motor lying around too.

Penny's dropped and I've just realised the difference between the chin cup/strap and an under-chin strap. Can't remember how he resolved the problem, just recall that he carried on wearing it. I do remember it meriting headlines in TMX at the time, on more than a few occassions. Helments definitely compulsory on the road from 1973 as Montman says - unless you wear a turban.

Thanks for that. Saw the the girlings on ebay but I've never had pair of girlings that worked well so wasn't tempted. I've a pair of old Rock Shocks I can now check the length of and rebuild if they are ok, otherwise it's another call to Mr Falcon.

Added? or do you mean removed - as far as my dismal memory serves, wasn't it the fact that he had a chin cup that was the cause of the problem?

More help required again from you Seeley owners please. Anyone know what the standard length is for the rear shocks - centre to centre of the bolt holes. My bike came as a box of bits without any. Thanks

Yes and No They told him to stop wearing it but he carried on regardless. Think he was still using it when he was on the JCM.

Very nice - very original too. Steeled myself to have another go at the electrics today. Knowing that the wiring was correct and with the help of a second set of ignition components, managed to identify that the sender from the cam wasn't sending anything. With the replacement I have a nice spark. Further examination shows bare wires touching each other out of the sender so hopefully it is as simple as that and once re-insulated should work ok. Thanks again for the wiring info, made it a lot easier to sort.

As John has mentioned again, FIM rules should only apply to the full British Champs. so why should Joe clubman give a hoot or worry about what they do with that series - it doesn't affect the vast majority. Club, centre and National events should carry on as they are now. With regard to previous posts about marking out trials to negate any advantage trick riding gives, it can't be done 100%. No matter how the section is laid out if someone can dance the bike about it will, more often than not, give them an advantage over 'Mr conventional' as it offers a wider variety and choice of lines. Illustrated today in our trial where a no stop ride over the problem part of a section was very difficult to achieve, but nevertheless still possible and it was done on a few occasions. Riders that could trick simply stopped jinked the front and back about and then hopped over the obstacle face on instead of at 45 degrees. Big advantage. Easy clean. Even in the SSDT riders perform blatant stops whilst flicking the front or back wheels which gives them a significant advantage with better lines than a rider using a genuine no-stop attempt. As far as FIM rules in BC is concerned it makes no difference to me at all, so I don't really care what they do with it. But if people seriously think that going back to full on trick riding and the harder sections that style dictates will benefit trials, take a look at the results of two of today's trials. Only 4 riders below 100 marks in the Southern Experts with Ross Danby on 95.... and he can ride a bit. The rest must have really enjoyed their days trialing. I wasn't there however, so there may be exceptional circumstances for the scores. And then there is the YMSA trial, a club that always puts on tight sections and today saw half the entry retired, 3 finish under 100 marks and the rest on cricket scores. The intermediate winner was on 134 and they ride eased versions of the expert route... In fact, the last 3 events I believe, has seen the Intermediate winner lose more than 100. The way forward...?? As I said, makes no difference to me, just an observation.

A handy way to modify the peg mounts on the Yam framed Majesty is to use bolt on plates like the TY175. You can do this by cutting off the footpeg mount which leaves the round lug on the frame. Drill and tap it to take a bolt. Underneath the footrest is the bottom tube that runs accross the frame at the rear of the bashplate. This can also be modified to take a bolt. Then fabricate a plate using these two bolt holes to mount it. The new footrest hanger can be bolted onto the plate, varying the position until you are happy with it, then it can be welded into place. This saves welding new plates directly to the frame and makes it easier to experiment. On my Godden framed bike I must have moved the rests half a dozen times or more to find the best position, each time having to grind off and re-weld the mounts - real pain. The bolt on method would have made this much more simple I think. How low you go is personal preference depending on how tall you are I guess. Being tall, I have mine slightly lower than the bashplate to get a comfortable standing position as the bikes are so high. As they have loads of ground clearance (stand it next to a modern bike...) they shouldn't snag. I'd be careful of how far back you go with them though as it will become very light on the front if you go too far, especially if it is a 320. No use measuring my positioning for you though as in addition to being the different frame, I've also altered the steering and fitted a longer swingarm, so it would give a different feel from yours.

Fairly certain also that WES never made a Sherpa system. If you're looking to replace a clapped out Sherpa silencer, I think virtually all derivatives of Sherpa systems are now reproduced in the original styles in Spain. Check www.bultacouk.com or Sammy Miller.

You just need to lift the mudguard about 10mm or so. Several cheapo ways of doing it. Space it with 8mm nuts, use a stack of washers, even plastic petrol pipe cut up to make spacers. Wouldn't recommend riding without the guard as you're just going to get a face full of crap spraying off the front wheel

Even if the condition isn't so good, still a lot of bike for a few hundred quid. I recently bought a purple one for

Off e-bay by any chance? There was quite a tidy one this week. BVM have one that looks immaculate. Anyway 1993 White tank cover and guards with pink graphics, pink forks and other plastics (ie chain guard, rear disc guard) 1994 Purple wheels, forks, tank cover and other plastics, white guards 1995 as '94 1996 White tank cover, blue guards, white forks, grey other plastics, expansion chamber on exhaust, 10mm spacer under top yoke 1997 As '96 but with shorter silencer 1998 As '97 Some ignition changes along the way too 1994/5 model generally reckoned to be the best but they all benefit from lowered footrests. Steering can be a bit vague in mud but good on rocks. Great bike for SSDT. Probably the best all round trials engine ever produced - in my opinion. In fact, if Carlsberg did trials engines they would be TYZs

I remember trying the last of the 310 Monts at a test day. I had a red 260 Beta Zero at the time. The venue was mainly big banks/climbs, cambers, mud, roots but no rocks at all. In those conditions the Mont matched the Zero for power, no problem, was more forgiving to ride in the 'old school' style and trashed the Zero for grip. Suspension I would say was on a par with the Zero, maybe SpuLark had a bad one, although as said, I didn't give it any trial over rocks. I liked it that much I didn't want to give it back and would have gladly swapped the Zero for it. Problem was I had bust the bank to get the Zero and couldn't afford another change so the trade never happened and I never rode one again after that. It was also about the time I really was fed up with the way trials was evolving (hop bop up your own a*** etc) so I couldn't justify more expense to myself anyway. The Zero went and I went twinshocking. For a repair to your motoplat try the trader that used to trade as Bradford Ignitions in Cornwall but who has since moved to Spain and advertises in TMX. May even be called Motoplat something or other now. I had a couple of Ossa motoplat stators fixed by him before he moved to Spain and they work fine.

Well, the wiring colour codes checked out as you said so thanks again for that. So got it all connected up and gave it a try. Still no bloody spark so it's back in the shed again until I can muster the enthusiasm for another go. In the meantime, the Sherpa rebuild can begin, at least they are nice and simple.

Thanks very much for that, I'll give it a try tomorrow morning

Can any of you Seeley owners help me with the wiring connections on the Seeley. Mine was dismantled when I bought it and without a wiring diagram I don't know which wire connects to which from the generator and cam pickup to the CDI. I've tried the ones that look obvious, as the colours aren't an exact match and tried to get some assistance from an XL manual but the colour coding is different. I just can't get it to produce a spark. I have 2 wires off the cam pickup and one from the generator. The CDI has 5 wires coming out of it with male/female connectors, so that effectively eliminates two of them due to the type of connectors on the generator and cam wires. There is another wire off the CDI which feeds to the coil. I have no idea whether the CDI earths itself to the frame or whether one of the 5 wires earths to the frame, engine or anywhere else I've tried everything to get a spark but to no avail and the bike is close to receiving a flying lesson over the neighbour's fence. I've ensured both CDI and coil are against bare metal on the frame so that is out of the equation. If any of you can take a look at the way the wiring connects on your own Seeleys when you are able I'd be very grateful

No, it's just that the website hasn't been updated, probably since it was first built. The Scorpa was sold a while ago - so I was told.

On my Majesty I have a bigger diameter front pipe, my own bigger volume middle box with packing, not baffled and a GaaGas Contact back box. It has the standard TY carb and it is on standard jetting apart from a slightly larger main jet. I did have problems initially getting it to rev out and thought this was the carb but it turned out to be the ignition was too retarded. So as a starting point I'd put your carb onto standard TY250 settings and set the iginition timing and then take it from there. Settings are pilot = 35, needle tube = N8, throttle slide = 3.5, main jet = 160 (or thereabouts) Needle on middle clip (don't have needle number) I also have the same electronic ignition as you. This is difficult to time when first fitting as there are no timing marks so it is guesswork to get the engine to fire up initially. Once it has fired up though it can be timed with a strobe by marking the flywheel and casing with timing marks. Generally it will be the same for most bikes, anywhere Around 2 - 3.5mm BTDC, All down to personal preference. I don't actually know what mine is timed at as I did it by trial and error in the end. I haven't any experience of other carbs. My airbox has been made out of alloy. 2 reasons for doing this. The original one was broken and in a mess. They are also a pain to remove from the bike if you have to, Back wheel has to come out. Making one from alloy meant a top loading filter like the TY mono (or Scorpa in my case) could be used, it could have a larger volume and I also wanted it so that it could be removed through the side of the frame. Nick Shield's Majesty is a 250, not 320.