woody

I checked my Haynes and Clymer manuals this afternoon but neither give any measurements. I don't have an actual Bultaco manual but I'm fairly sure they are just parts diagrams rather than instructional

Sherpas were fitted with four different hub types and there are quite a few more for other Bultacos. I'm not sure you'll find the tolerances / measurements you're looking for in a Bultaco manual, I don't think they were that detailed. You can find some online if you google Bultaco manual

Changing is easy, drain oil, cover off and remove the springs which will be held in by nuts on your bike, not pins like earlier models. Fibre plates are obviously thicker than steel so I don't think you will get the same number of fibre plates in as steel. I use Barnett friction plates which are Kevlar and I replace 1 Kevlar plate with a steel plate to get the right pack thickness. I guess it will be the same for the other types of fibre plate. The Kevlar plates break very well when the clutch is disengaged, take up is predictable and because the Kevlar bites better than the steel the spring tension can be backed off more for a lighter pull (together with using the longer front brake arm on the clutch as they are the same spline) The spring nuts are quite deep so if you back them off too much they will foul the inside of the case and make a mess. I reduce the depth of mine to avoid that. Search this forum for 'clutch set up' or such like as there are a few posts on setting the clutch up for best operation going back over the years

Gearbox is 600cc of light gear oil such as Silkolene light or other brand equivalent If the clutch is original then the plates are all steel so you can use Auto Transmission Fluid. If the friction plates have been replaced with fibre plates then you can use ATF or light gear oil - 300cc. If you don't know whether the plates have been replaced just use ATF as it will work with either

But, a used Yamaha TY hub could be just as worn, there's no guarantee they work any better. I've ridden Yams with dire brakes as well as good. My Sherpas have decent brakes using modern shoe linings machined to fit. You could remove the lip from the hub and get the shoes relined with oversize linings, 5 - 6mm thick and then machine them down to fit. Or there is an M49 wheel on ebay now after a dealer in Norwich broke a perfectly good bike for parts - utterly criminal in my opinion wrecking a perfectly good bike like that, especially the prices they're trying to get for the parts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BULTACO-250-SHERPA-REAR-WHEEL-BRAKE-HUB-B49-M49-BULTACO-PARTS-BREAKING-BIKE/282849801825?hash=item41db297661:g:VRwAAOSwXOVadfjW

Wouldn't surprise me if the repro banana has nothing inside it.... I've just taken the banana off my 92 and replaced with a repacked but still with baffles clubfoot. Haven't tried it yet though

You might have to modify the inlet tube of the banana as they were made for the earlier engines with smaller diameter connecting pipes. It might be too small to mate properly with the 183 middle box outlet. Banana definitely noisier

There will be a very nice TX300 for sale at Telford Classic show at the weekend (not mine)

It's normal on most trials bikes to find them difficult to push in gear due to drag on the clutch. The drag is overcome better when it is the engine spinning the clutch, not the back wheel. But make sure the clutch plates are breaking evenly all around the basket as it won't help if they aren't. If not adjust the tension of whichever springs until the plates lift evenly The clutch pull is fairly heavy on the Ossa, you can experiment with backing the spring tension off to lighten the pull until it starts to slip. You can adjust the springs through the inspection cover, you don't have to remove the casing

Yes, lots of info on what to do here In a nutshell you need a dating certificate from a recognised body which is on DVLA list. VMCC is, but they know how to charge these days... You need the bike to be recorded on NOVA with HMRC otherwise DVLA won't process your application. You need to send photographs to DVLA. You need an MOT. You don't need insurance. You need to complete the DVLA form V55/5 BUT - before you do all of this, find out if the bike is already registered by completing a form V62 which is a request for a V5. Obviously you can't complete the registration number as you don't have one but DVLA can tell from the chassis number whether your bike is registered or not. Just put a covering letter with the form explaining that you recently bought it from a private sale, you believe it may have been registered when new but there is no paperwork. It costs £25 and if it is registered they will send you the V5. I wrote something like: I have enclosed application form V62 for a V5 registration document relating to the following motorcycle: Garelli Trial 320 – Chassis Number #####, engine number ##### This classic motorcycle was recently purchased by myself but without a V5. It is believed that the motorcycle was originally registered when new, in 1984, but unfortunately the previous owner had no V5 or any details of the registration number itself. Unfortunately therefore I can provide no evidence of an original registration number but am hoping that a search against the chassis number may reveal one. I hope that the information I have provided is sufficient and that you will be able to run a trace for a registration number. Enclosed is a cheque for £25 to cover the fee. If it isn't registered they will return the application and don't charge so you get your cheque back. If so you can then begin the registration process.

Silkolene light gear oil works fine

But haven't new REH got modern cartridge internals so not really comparable to the 60's design? I'd suggest 180 - 200cc as a starter using 10W but as with any forks, quantity and SAE are going to be personal preference

Looks as though it has just come out of the factory, very nice Fuel mix on modern semi or fully synthetic is 50:1 for virtually any aircooled cylinder with a liner Forks around 200-220cc of 5 or 10W but quantity and viscosity are personal preference Gearbox is 450cc - most use modern light gear oil of whatever brand Clutch is 300cc either transmission fluid or light gear oil You'll probably find a manual online with all the specs in if you google it as manuals have been put on line for most bikes now. They also come up on ebay from time to time

Grippers were fitted with both Telesco and Betor, I think it was the early 250 that had the Telesco. All MAR and Green bikes had Betor Bultaco are all Betor Montesa usually Telesco, later 80s models looked similar to Marzocchi but I think they were still made by Telesco

And when they need repacking, as well as sounding awful they don't run very well at low revs

Probably cheaper to get them re-chromed than fit something else as no forks are cheap and you have to have yokes too, then make the front wheel fit or replace that too. About £160 for re-chrome collected and delivered by Philpotts. Forks alone will cost you that and you have to hope they are in good order if buying unseen on sonmeone's word

Yes, the Rev 3 rear mudguard was very fragile and snapped easily, especially if you had your hand under it to lift the rear of the bike. I rolled my Rev 3 backwards and just touched a stone wall which was enough to break a piece off the tip of i

Not sure about your spacers as the one on the L/H side doesn't look long enough and the one for behind the brake plate doesn't look like a top hat. The flange of the top hat is very thin as seen on the new spindle as it sits just proud of the bearing oil seal face whereas the tube part is a push fit into the seal The spacer on the L/H hand side also pushes into the bearing oil seal and is long enough that part of it sticks out and is visible. I don't have one loose so can't measure anything at the moment. Your looks too short maybe?

L/H fork has the sleeve which as you note, extends from the inside of the leg. Then there is a spacer (just a straight tube, no top hat) R/H fork the brake plate sits against the fork leg but there is a top hat spacer inside the hub which sits between the brake plate and the bearing. The brake arm spring is located against the front of the brake plate inside the fork leg - it can only locate/work one way and it sounds as though it is correct on yours When the spindle is pulled through on the nut it will just about recess into the L/H fork leg up against the sleeve. The sleeve will only pull through as far as the spacer will let it. If you have no spacer the nut will continue to pull the spindle through as it is pushing the sleeve which has no spacer to locate against It's hard to tell from the picture of the new spindle but I'm guessing that the spacer shown next to the spindle head is the actual spacer and not the sleeve and that the sleeve isn't shown.

You can buy the older airbox new from Spain for 159 to 191 models from here - www.motosdelabuelo.com I haven't seen them available outside of Spain. Interestingly they list the 158/159 box seperately from the rest, I thought they were all the same (apart from the sidepanels which are concave or convex fro 350 / 250)

I hadn't actually looked on the front page, I was checking the club website but hadn't seen them so assumed they hadn't been finished at that point, then saw this post and thought I may have missed them on the club website. Checked again but still couldn't see them so got curious as to where they were which was when I posted the question - then immediately found them on the front page of TC... ( still can't see them on the club site though? ) Don't worry, wasn't complaining as I know what it's like having to do the results afterwards on top of everything else that goes into the trial.

Where did you find the results? I can't see them on the website Edit - just seen them on the front page....

10/52..? Really or was that a typo for 10/42. I found 10/42 about as low as I would want to go, 10/52 would be far too low for me to even use first

It was D.O.A that made them if I remember. Never had one but heard they were not good quality and would break. I made my own using a Beta kickstart and welding the Beta swivel onto the Sherpa knuckle. In the end though I preferred the action and look of the Bultaco kicker so sold it on.

Bultaco