tony27

290 has bit more bottom end power than 250 so they probably sell 4 to 1 over here. Been a while since I've had a 250 but 290's have always been good on gas, can do a full national level event on a tank easily & would generally be last to fuel up when out trailriding with other trials bikes Really comes down to the type of rider you are & where you ride

Sounds pretty normal to me, all of mine have been other the years have been fairly cold blooded

Take it for a good long trail ride, preferably with a good long 5-10min 4th gear hillclimb to get it nice & hot. Most bikes that have only been ridden in trials will smoke quite a bit during this treatment. Have seen some betas continue smoking for best part of 5mins after motor shut off before. Cheapest & easiest method to my way of thinking & heaps of fun

1 trick that sometimes works is a bead of silicon in the rim tape groove just before you seat the tape, this in effect works like a instant gasket. Other possible problem could be the valve stem nicking the rim tape during assembly though probably not the problem

Thanks for the help guys, using local yamaha dealer isn't an option as they're becoming an endangered species around here. Not sure how close the nearest 1 is now

No.....Just do them as tight as possible by hand, I've never used torque figure as don't own 1 that goes that low, just an experience thing as far as feel. 72 foot/pounds is for crankshaft nut holding on gear. From memory flywheel is around same figure. Good luck

72 foot/pounds is correct, in other words its hell tight although marking everything before stripping then tightening so marks line up is just as good. Always easiest with motor in frame to steady it if possible

Can anyone recommend suppliers on the internet of oem patrs, have looked at tytrials speedandsport cmsnl None of these can supply things like the oil filler/dipstick or seat brackets, have no problem with making these parts if had something to copy so other option is buying which I've had no luck with Any help would be much appreciated

Can't work out 2nd tube you mean, all I see are plug lead behind bottle(black) & clear vent tube on carb

From my experience of dying stators thats not your problem, generally starting gets worse when hot so see if you can borrow a coil pack off someone else's bike to eliminate the stator as the cause. You're probably looking at the cdi/coil pack being faulty

Normally to remove clutch hub nut I've found a air powered rattle gun works well, you may need to put in gear but I don't remember as it's been a while since mine has been off. Sounds like you clutch dampers may have started to let go as thats alot more movement than I'd expect

Before you go pulling anything apart it may pay to check that there is free play at the lever so that piston is coming back past port, if port gets masked by piston due to over adjustment you can end up with some strange problems

Think it would more likely be 3/16" which is roughly 4.75mm, metric balls aren't that common

VX is part of the code on NGK iridium plugs, think V stands for small diameter electrode from memory. Ran 1 of those for ages with no issues then managed to smash when out of bike & will run another fairly soon

From what I've seen on the OKO oz site there would be absolutely no issues with being fiddly to fit as they do a complete kit comprising carb(not sure if spacered), manifold, airbox connector & cable for around $400 AUS, pretty much same price as keihen carb only. Thinking could be interesting to try with the v-force I've been using

Had NZ importer in at work today & he was saying he got e-mail last week from factory saying there is now a 125 racing available as per the photo further up

I have a ty250d project bike i'm working on, frame has had headstock steepened & peg mounts moved with modern pegs by previous rider. I've just gotten the parts to rebuild the foxshox(trials type) that were already fitted, had to reposition mounts to bring bike back to level. Now for the big question, are there any worthwhile mods that can be done to the forks while they're apart for seals, ie possibly remake damper rods in alloy with any suggested alterations to hole size & position. I know they'll never feel anything like a set of modern forks but if they can be improved why shouldn't i do it?

Just replaced 2nd stator in my jarvis & these are readings for new stator-think cdi is where dual map differs green/red 555 ohms green/white 641 ohms red/white 86 ohms yellow/blue 1006 ohms yellow/brown 1071 ohms yellow/black 1070 ohms Can't remember what colour other wire is but will give no reading to others Importer here supplied me these readings to confirm before got stator from him, mine hated roadwork this time & would die for 1/4hr sometimes at end of long transition. Not good Hope this helps Tony