nh014

Gearbox capacity as listed in the operator's manual is 550 cc, which should bring the oil level into view in the oil level inspection window.

Similar problems on my Rev 3 were always resolved by stripping the carburetor and blowing out all jets (especially the pilot jet) and passages with carburetor cleaner. Beyond that you are probably looking at an electrical / timing issue, and there are numerous articles in this Forum on dealing with those.

You may want to consider an OKO carb. Go to www.mid-atlantictrials.com/ and click on OKO Carburetor Information.

The sleeve nuts are 7 mm. Since it is most likely that they haven't been removed in the past 30 years, soak them for a day in penetrating oil before you attempt to remove them. If the allen wrench rounds off inside the nut you'll have to drill them out. Hopefully you will not have to do that. Sometimes an impact wrench will help break them loose. Torque the sleeve nuts to 11 to 15 ft. lbs. and the cylinder head nuts to 21 to 25 ft. lbs.

The flywheel nut and the countershaft sprocket nut are both left-handed threads. Turn clockwise to loosen.

Keep leaning towards Caswell's. I've used it on over 6 tanks, both fiberglass and metal. It pervents ethanol from dissolving the fiberglass and protects the metals tanks from rust and corrosion.

If it can be of any help, here is what I have in the Mikuni VM26 on my Cota 348. Needle - 5F21 Slide - 2.5 Main jet - 130 Needle jet - 182 N8 Pilot jet - 35 Air jet 0.5

if your paint shop can find a cross reference here is the Montesa red from the 76 to 79 Cotas. I believe the Cota 200 red is the same. Lacquer- Dupont Lucite Acrylic Lacquer Code 75-Red 1978 Enamel- PPG Delstar Acrylic enamel Dar 72155SC Fleet bright red

I'm not sure what you are doing, but a quality sealed bearing like SKF, properly installed, should last for a couple of seasons.

If you are leaking gearbox oil, it is possible that the gearbox is over-filled and oil is running out of the breather hole at the rear of the case.

Lacquer- > Dupont Lucite Acrylic Lacquer > Code 75-Red > 1978 > > Enamel- > PPG Delstar Acrylic enamel > Dar 72155SC > Fleet bright red

Stephen You will a Male 30mm x 1.5mm.

Go to www.off-road.com and check out the article 'Restoring Plastic on ATV's and UTV's'

The 349 timing spec is 2.1 mm (0.085") BTDC with a point setting of .35 to .45 mm.

Experienced similar issues twice last season, on my 03 270 Rev3. Only fix was to completely strip the carb and blow out every orifice, jet, and passage with an aerosol carb cleaner.

Unless you have run it dry and warped the plates, Cota's are not prone to clutch drag. Have you checked the clutch cable to ensure it is not frayed internally, or kinked / smashed.

They originally came equipped with a 10 tooth sprocket in the front and a 33 tooth sprocket in the rear, although I also prefer a 10 / 40 combination.

Torque values are as follows: Cylinder to engine cases = 18 lb ft Cylinder head to cylinder = 25 lb ft From the Montesa repair manual. To adjust the selector, with the 0092.06 nut loose move the adjustment cam to its center position. Tighten the 0092.06 nut. Operate the gearshift lever through all gears. If any gear fails to engage properly, go back to first gear. Rotate the transmission input shaft slightly and again try to engage all gears. If any gear fails to engage, repeat the process of rotating the transmission shaft and trying to engage all gears. When all gears can be engaged, leave the transmission shaft in that position and loosen the 0092.06 nut and turn the adjusting cam so that when the indexing plungers 0266.007 bottom in each detent in the 5166.013 stop plate the shift pawl engages its stop. Tighten the cam nut.

Can't help on the coil specs, but the 349 'white wonder' timing spec is 2.1 mm (0.085") BTDC with a point setting of .35 to .45 mm. You are about as close as you can get with 2.2 mm and .4 mm.

Classic Bike Decals lists them on their web site (www.classicbikedecals.co.uk)

Years of production for the 348's were 1976, 1977, and 1978 at the rate of about 5000 per year. Your serial number (6516) would indicate it is a 1977 model.

Just questioning the statement that the MR 348's were '76' production only. I've have a '77' MR 348, SN 5457. Purchased it new in 77. It was my understanding that the MR editions were dropped sometime in mid 77.

With due credit to John Haberbosch of Rocky Mountain Montesa ... Sleeve Nuts Beginning about 1968 engine designs changed. Up to this time most models had long studs that were used to retain both cylinder and head. These 10mm bolts were quite long. Due to expansion rates for the aluminum of the cylinder and head versus the steel stud the torque values on a cold engine were light. The engine casting was unable to handle much torque and would distort slightly and/or the stud would want to pull out. This torque value was 11 to 15 lbs. ft. To have a more secure fastening of the cylinder to the engine, shorter and thinner 8mm studs were fitted and the cylinders were modified to accept a sleeve nut. This nut (part #3360.161) was sized to fit in the 11mm hole. To accommodate a tool one end was made to accept a 7mm Allen wrench. These sleeve nuts also have the torque of 11 to 15 lbs. ft. but they only have to hold the cylinder to the engine cases. They don

If you truly just want to keep the gas in and there is no obvious cracks or holes, purchase some Caswell tank sealer (www.caswellplating.com) and use it to coat the inside of the tank.

I suggest you may want to to consider a Mikuni VM 26, set up as follows: Needle - 5F21 Slide - 2.5 Main jet - 140 Needle jet - 182 N8 Pilot jet - 40 Air jet 0.5 I made the coversion on one of my 348's a couple of years ago and have been well pleased with the performance.