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I do 70cc to 5Ltrs (about 70:1) Castrol TQ-D is the stuff (ATF Dextron III)

Checkout this web page! There is a 3part video just on the 'Pro Clutch' http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html Do you have a friend with mechanical experience who can help you?

You can check the requirements in the manual online. 'motuk' also check the 'special notices' section. This is cut/paste from DVLA; Motorcycle number plates should have a character height - 64 millimetres character width - 44 millimetres (except the figure 1 or letter I) character stroke - 10 millimetres space between characters - 10 millimetres space between groups - 30 millimetres top, bottom and side margins - 11 millimetres (minimum) vertical space between groups - 13 millimetres I would reregister with a pre 2001 personal plate with less digits (3 on top line 2 on the bottom line) The minimum plate size could be 174 x 163mm (7"x6.5")

Instructions for 'Blue Hylomar' is to apply an even film to both surfaces to be sealed, then allow solvent to dry before assembley. Note! you should only apply it to the top face of the Cylinder and the underside of the spacer, The O'rings will seal against the top side of the spacer!

Do NOT use synthetic oil GasGas recomomend ATF Dextron III. I use Castrol TQD (same stuff)

Hi RicTS, Welcome to TC, RT

I struggle with just red & blue; Red on right Blue on left. After some years working on aircraft and being told to remember the saying 'Port is Red and on the Left' So for me it's right to be wrong and port is not red. HELP!

There was someone selling a kit comprising 4 spacers and 4 longer bolts. The easiest way to do it make some spacers or stack washers till they are about 8 to10mm thick and some longer bolts, should cost less than a Quid!

The Front looks like new (very sharp edged) ave it! The rear is not good! The Manufacture Name is your choice, Mich, IRC, Metz, Barum. and so on.

It's unique! Should'nt talk bad about it when one poor insuspecting idiot has bid (when I looked it was upto

[quote RichT...any more news on where you got those full bearing kits for 55 quid??..would love to know. I've just put mine back together with the old bearings and lots of grease so I can ride this weekend. Will try to sort it asap tho! 'Stu' The kit I used was from 'AlllBalls' racing. ask your dealer to get you one. Please note as I said earlier it's for the linkage only. There was an extra bearing in mine I dont know if it is intentional or it may be a buy six get one free offer! or they expect you to wreck one putting them in! fitting them Insert them with the numbers facing outward. the other end is softer where they have closed up the bearing in manufacture. if you knock that end you will easily damage it.

You can get a full kit with all 6 Bearings, 6 bushes, 8 seals and 4 shim washers required (for the linkage), cost about

Yes they must be twice the price of any other make! Has anyone discovered if there is one from another brand that fits?

If you have removed a bearing no point putting it back so now's the best time to replace it. Ask your dealer to get you a kit from AllBalls racing they do them for just about every bike bearings, bushes and seals all included, I have found them to be well priced and they have done the searching for you

You have a problem with the fan, if it's not running often or long enough then the water is going to boil, the pressure will build up and can go two ways. Through the vent hose or if the hose is kinked or blocked (check this) then water pump seal is the next weakest point.

Thanks for this tip, I restuck some of my decals with an old tube of 'grip glue' found in garage, and yes they are well stuck!. It seems to be like Evo-Stick which is petrol based so if I continue to splash fuel all over the tank decals as usual they may come away again. but still plenty left to stick em again

I replaced mine with an AllBalls kit. The ends of the two bushes that go in the bearings in the swing arm should meet in the middle, the larger diameter on mine were too big to fit in the holes on each side of the swing arm against the seals and I needed to grind them down half a mm. Before I did it was like you described and they were tight enough to stop the shock from rebounding.

The big change was in 2002. when the Pro models were launched. I've got an 06 and have noticed there are some changes; The handlebars are 'Fat bars' they are more rigid and dont need a brace. The fork stantions are Alluminium saving about 1kg The clutch on earlier models used brake fluid and tended to leak from the slave cyl into the engine oil, so they they tried different seals but now they changed to use Mineral hydraulic oil. The water pumps could also leak into the engine oil so they have been upgraded (made with better materials) You could carry out these mods on an earlier year bike but the costs would eat what you originally saved, for example a complete water pump is

They have! A few months back I emailed an old address I still had from when I bought a 'Kliponoff Lite'. The reply I got back was from the new owners 'Pendle Engineering' they said they had bought the brand (about a year ago) and their intention was to develope the range. They only aquired some old stock of racks and a couple of 'lite' trailers in the takeover. You would have expected them to have done something by now.

Yes these plugs can be interchanged, The plugs are exactly the same but the resister is to prevent radio interference and effecting some types of electronic ignition units. NGK's website has all the details.

The cap on mine is plastic, if I had broken it the way you describe then I think would just replace the cap.

Is it a Domino throttle? Peel back the hand grip and check what colour the throttle tube is! If it is white you have a 'fast' one If it is black you have a 'slow' one All the components are interchangable so you could get the oposite to what you have now and then you try both see which you prefer.

I'd always be nervous of it "unfolding" at speed. Not a problem, The 'CMF' trailer is secured. Like any trailer you must always use it when it's fully assembled and its designed so when a bike is loaded it would make it even more secure!

The new tin is back on the shelf. I was chattin to a friend who has secretly been using notoil for some time, He/She said 'the best place for that old sticky mineral stuff is in next doors cat litter tray.' How cruel would that be but how funny would it look? A bit messy to say the least! oops!

Hii B40RT I do mine exactly how you describe But the situation my friend has is he lives in a quasi semi, and has to carry it through a narrow tunnel. so he's not as fortunate as us!