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No problem! Thats what it's for keep asking questions and you get answers. I've sent you PM with a link via the other site. let me know if it does'nt open.

Welcome to 'TC' Mark46, Good to know if it was my suggestion on 'TT' that prompted you to join here, I am in Cheshire area. RichT

I filled mine there was no air trapped. Just fill it up and run it for a few minutes then top up if required. I would drain out the existing coolant before putting engine ice, This way the engine ice would work most effectively.

Probably the most asked question, I've only been doing trials for 2 years I got a GG'250 to see if I liked the sport and now I'm hooked. Just recently bought a newer one. Today I had a go on a Sherco and didnt like it so will be sticking with Gasser, If you join a club you may be able to try a few different ones first and see which you prefer. any cheap and looked after bike would be a good starter bike and you shouldnt be to bothered about wrecking it when you start throwing it at rocks. Then upgrade later.

Where abouts is the hole? I had one in the middle of the tread and had it repaired with a 'mushroom plug' I would not bother again. Problem is the rubber on the inside is too thin and you can't prepare the surface without exposing the canvase, then the repair patch does'nt stick or seal properly. It leaked but it would stay up for just a day. I think the stripps are a better idea! As you could remove them and replace them when they leak.

Wellcome! Get a bike, have fun!

I run mine at 70:1 Put 70ml of good synthetic oil in 5 Litres of fuel

Don't worry there's nothing wrong with ATF. It is transmission oil and works perfectly.

I have used plastic numberplate bolts for 2years and they have saved my airbox/mudguard many times because they do just pop off. Then you can just replace them for 10p each. I see loads of people using zip ties to hold the mudguard on. They are too strong and they tear through the edges of mudguards so I would recommend swapping them for plastic bolts.

Put it in your Gasser, The Pro models only use about 350ml so will cost

How close is Church Stretton to you? Trials & Tribulations are Sherco Dealers.

All brands should be made to the same spec which is 'ATF Dextron III' I have used Castrol 'TQ-D'about

I found a suitable RawlBolt that fitted inside the pistons tightened it up, then grip the rawlbolt in the vice and wiggle the caliper off.

If your bike is a Pro model then you should use; ATF Dextron III

I use fully synthetic oil at 75:1 ish 70ml to 5 Litres

Oh No, your post is a bit too late! By the time I could get there it will have finished! Mud, Filth, Bikes and Sexpo sounds like a good time to me.

For Enduro I have been using 'Quick Straps' they are alternative straps with self adhesive fittings to put on the sides of your helmet. A stud on one side and velcro on the other, when not using them you can with a single hand wrap them round the back of your helmet. I've never lost any!

Me to I cut an old oil bottle and extended the existing guard (Forwards) it worked very well and cost nothing. Alternatively if you have those swing arm protectors they have an integral guard that will protect your boot, I've got them on my newer bike,

Main differences are; Flat grippy sole, Lighter weight and more flexible, more control for rear braking and moving your feet on the pegs. I started trials using my old Alpinestar Tech8's. (live and learn) The next week I got some Trial boots and they are just the job!

Use some Copper grease on the back of the pads should stop them squealing. I've got galfer pads in mine they are very keen I only use one finger, had EBC before they didn't seem as good! but EBC work well in my enduro.

I've got 'GAR' and would buy them again if I needed to! Comfy and they are quite cheap.

I have just added another Diag to my previous reply, Have a look it has part No's included!

This is a diagram for 96-2000 models with 'Kokusan' ignition. http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Electrics/wiring-kokusan-96-2000.html Found another one with part numbers included http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/Kok97to00.jpg

I set mine with the wheels off the ground, tension untill 15mm between tension block and the swingarm. I find doing it this way, when the suspension is compressed to where the chain is at the tightest point there is still 20mm slack. Hope this helps.

Welcome to TC To help save your levers, put a couple of wraps of PTFE tape round the H'Bars then fit your lever clamps. I've not broken a lever since doing this and I have a lot of 'offs'