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From Manchester! Do a search for 'manchester17.org' or PM me. The club runs some 'Dead Easy' trials. They are aimed at kids, total beginners, but also there is a harder route which is still quite easy! You will have join a club (

Sound advice, Not much difference between the top three and certainly good enough for the worlds best riders, they have influence on the design. I go with the Michelin X11. The new X'lite Mich tyre is a bit thinner in the carcase around the centre tread, so it's lighter in weight and the most expensive but probably more prone to punctures.

Maybe drill a hole in the oposite side and knock the dent back with a suitable punch. Close the hole up with weld.

Had mine for about a year, very pleased with them. Hard wearing but I have just seen a hole appear in the left boot caused by the chain rubbing it, Have now extended the chainguard with part of an old oil bottle as an experiment and it works perfectly, Yes I wished I'd done this sooner!

I use; Make/Brand: Castrol Type: Castrol TQD Spec: ATF Dextron lll Price:

I put those 3 items on my 06 pro, I only noticed a very slight difference with the head spacer, the flywheel weight was more effective but for

Definately a hole in the end, I used a scalpel.

You can do the soap trick when heating it up and then keep it hot for a while, but you must let the Ally cool as slow as possible (Don't quench it) this is refered to as 'Normalising' When you bend Ally it will 'Work Harden' so when I have straightened brake and clutch levers I normalise them again so they are more likely to just bend and not snap off

Toddlers can ride trikes or bikes with two stabiliser wheels not one. maybe its a growing up thing we get more brave or silly. I appreciate sidecars will never be my game it looks too hard work and glad to hear you've gone off the chair idea.

Welcome to TC I could be of equal skill level as you. Hope the sidecar idea is a hoax, Post some pics of the 349

The letter in the middle of the Vin Number is relative to the year, Sounds like you have an 04 if it has an 'E' in it I have an 06 and that has a 'G' in it. This is cut and pasted from Trialspartsusa website, Hope it helps! 2004~2007 Example: VTRGG 3002 E054 9955 VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas GG = Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro & MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads) 3002: 30 = 300 model. 02 = (02 = year of Europe homogulation N/A USA) E054: E = 2004 ALPHA CODE FOR MODEL YEAR. 05 = Manufacture month (5TH month) May. 4 = Year of manufacture 2004. 9955 = sequential chassis number. (9,955th built in this year.) “Alpha” model year codes Model engine size codes E = 2004 12 = 125cc F = 2005 20 = 200 model (175cc) G = 2006 25 = 250cc H = 2007 28 = 280 model (272cc) 30 = 300cc

Basicly all new parts with fresh manufactured gaskets would be great, but maintenance and servicing always requires some form of opinion based on experience, the posibility or the severity of a failure. There is nothing wrong in using some jointing paste sparingly as it holds gaskets in position and helps them squeeze up if you think they require it. Please note never use anything on Cylinder head Gaskets! Yes gaskets are designed to be and should fitted dry but some things to be considered; Condition of component sealing faces, check for flatness any damage or dents could be repared/filled with 'e'metal, There are many forms of gasket material, thickness, hardness and what substance they are required to seal (ie water, oil, petrol, solvents) Even the age or how the material has been stored, some can harden and lose the flexibilty or resilience meaning they dont squeeze properly when clamped up.

Checkout the ACU website under the 'Centres/Clubs' menu. I think you may be in the 'Midland Centre Region 8'. there is a Dudley & District MCC listed.

Yes, usually when a stud shears off is because the thread is seized or Locktighted, sorry to say this but I think you will end up having to drill them out. (after you have both finished swearing)

On my Husky and this may be on other makes aswell, There is a sponge doughnut that is inserted in the hub then the spacer is pushed through the hole keeping it central.

Yes, the Garter spring on the seal should be on the higher pressure side (in this case it would be the water side)

There is a Flywheel weight available but expensive

The size of a chain is measured like this: a 520 chain is 5/8" pitch x 1/4" width of rollers a 428 chain is 1/2" pitch x 11/32" width of rollers The chain in the photo looks too wide for the sprockets. Does it slide from side to side? If your sprockets are 1/4" wide then I think you should be fitting a 420 chain which is 1/2" pitch x1/4"width

'Magic Button' I just fitted one but I still have to dab, maybe the 'Magic' has worn off! Seriously the difference is very slight it's not worth worrying over.

I am prety sure that it is the same for all pro models (27x1mm Right hand male thread) and you can get them for about

Do not use any synthetic engine oil, it can swell the fiber clutch plates! All your info can be read in the 'Tech' section on the trialspartsusa website For gearbox oil use Castrol TQ-D (it is actualy ATF DEXTRON III) and for fueloil I use 'TTS' at about 70:1

I was just viewing to see if there were any replies yet.

I have an 'S3' weight, it's fitted with 2 countersunk screws and the cover spacer is only 6mm, the lever will just about go fully on the shaft with no clearance so I pull it back 1mm.

I have fitted an 'S3' flywheel weight. If you have one of these I can send you a PDF file with step by step instructions and lots of colour photos for each step. Please PM me if you would like a copy.

Welcome to TC I would recomend the Manchester 17 'Dead Easy' trials.