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Have you any part numbers on your flywheel? I have seen two flywheels listed Year 04-09 Digital Ignition Flywheel MT300334005

They are 'Nitrided' and it costs more to have them recoated than a new tube. I had a quote off 'Bodycote'

I use No-Toil filter oil because you can wash them in the sink with its own washing powder and it does'nt stink solvents do. You must always oil your filter with some sort of oil as the integrity of the foam filters the larger particles and the sticky oil collects the fine dust. Do it regular it's much cheaper than a barrel and piston. I run the Putoline oil at 70:1 (70ml to 5ltr) on my 2010 250 with no problems.

The footrest was designed to act as a mechanical stop for the kickstart. If you move the kickstart on the splines it will travel too far and can do more damage inside! There have been many posts about this. There was a thin rubber pad on mine that fited on the footrest to prevent damage to the the kickstart but it soon got destroyed, I just had a look in the parts book and its not listed so I cant post the Part Number. but really this part should be made out of a tougher material like Polyurathane or even just someting like 1/4" thick rubber and wire it on.

I'm not bothered as I have had both, My enduro bike was left hand and my trials is right hand. just what you get used to

Nice workshop or here we would call it a 'Man Cave' I am jealous,

Yes we meet every Tuesday for a beer. It's not secret where we go, I just dont openly advertise it. I will try and send you a PM later

The next D/Easy is 5th Feb, if you want some advice/practice before then, come and meet us Tuesdays after 9pm in the Rising Sun That's just up the road from you. I shall be playing next weekend. Rick.

I fitted the Apico(3 finger)levers and am pleased with them, They also seem to be unbreakable or it could be I don't crash as hard as I used to!

Not much is interchangable between the older TxT and the Pro models, there have been many changes. Regards plastics I think only the number board, front mudguard and disc guard, Wheels possibly though things like the bearings, spindles, sprockets, discs and calipers are different. Biggest weight saving could be a rear tyre 'Michelin X'lite' 0.5kg lighter. Sometimes a like for like donor bike is best way and build one bike with the best parts and get shut of the other!

Looks very organised, Whats in the 'JSE Racing' can on the shelf, Have you got your own brand?

A few nerves are quite normal and you can manage them with good thoughts; A sports coach taught me 'The mind can be trained to be so powerful but can very easily be fooled' so the real skill is to keep it focused. When practicing get someone else to set your sections out so you have no control of being familiar with it till you have walked them, so it feels like a real trial and even better if there's a good group of you. At a trial Imagine you are just doing your practice. every time you ride it is just practice. Nobody wants to see you do badly so just do what you do and put a good show on for them and let the others have a bad day

It can be found on 'trialspartsusa' in the tech menu Titled 'GASGAS Chassis number system (explained)' http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/GASGAS%20CHASSIS%20NUMBER.doc

I filled mine to an air space of 100mm and kept pumping the damper rod and the fork leg untill the level would'nt drop any more then syringed out the oil to 160mm level.

The book says 50:1 but it is too much and keeps fouling the plug, I use fully synthetic oil at 70ml to 5Ltrs (70:1) and it runs ok!

There is a fork seal video on 'trialspartsusa' but it refers to the 2000 2003 models. Here is a link to the service bulletin for 40mm Marzocchi forks from 06 to present. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/ALUMINIUM%20FRONT%20SUSPENSIONS%2006.doc

Welcome to TC. Any brand of ATF Dextron III will do, and it is cherry red in colour. It does'nt sound as if you've got water in it but you should always be on the lookout for abnormalities, so change it and keep check on your coolant level and your rad overflow is not kinked or restricted, Any excess presure in the system will blow through the water pump. Places to ride, sorry can't help with that one I'm not in your area.

Those Castor wheels would be amazing for us mortals that can't 'hop/bop'

I can't see why you need a different size O-ring as it should just be the size to seal on the top edge of the cylinder, I went the other way and have fitted a low comp insert in mine and used the standard o-rings for a 250. all is fine. Something is not right and you should not have to source a non standard part to make it fit! and with any future maintenance you will need more of these. I still suspect you have a 280 insert and a standard 280 o-ring should fit it. maybe its an odd one that could be marked incorrectly though you could expect there to be many more if a full batch were affected.

The inner O'ring groove should be the same diameter as your original head. I am suspecting the insert you have got is for the 280cc which the O'ring groove is 3.5mm larger in diameter. (the cylinder bore of the 250 is 72.5mm and the 280 is 76.0mm) Check your insert it should be marked 250A and coloured red. I hope you have not got a 280A. The outer cylinder head is the same for 250 280 & 300. The way you say you have tightened the head up is good and should'nt be a concern.

Hi, This link shows the wire diagram for all 2001 TXT's, it says between the Light Blue and Dark Blue wires should be 100.5 ohms. http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Electrics/wiring-kokusan-2001-txt.html

The parts catalogue lists 2 Alen screws M8x20 and 1 Hex head bolt M6x16. Mine has a spacer fitted under the head of one of the M8 bolts so the bolt head acts as a stop for the stand (when it's up). a stack of M8 washers will do the same job if you want and be cheaper!

I fitted a low comp insert to my 2010 250. It has made it much softer from low revs.

Those spoke nipples look rusty, I have a spare small vice that is not fastened to a bench and clamp it on the spoke but sometimes if they are badly seized they will shear off. Cheapest option would be to look for a second hand wheel, or if your hub is in good condition you could have it rebuilt with new rim and spokes.